Beijing


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Beijing (北京) is the capital of the most populous country in the world, the People's Republic of China. It was also the seat of the Ming and Qing dynasty emperors until the formation of a republic in 1911. As such it is rich in historical sites and important government institutions.

The city is well known for its flatness and regular construction. There is only one hill to be found in the city limits (in Jingshan Park to the north of the famous Forbidden City). Like the configuration of the Forbidden City, Beijing has concentric "ring roads", which are actually rectangular, that go around the metropolis.

Beijing will host the Summer Olympics of 2008. Much of city is presently in upheaval as infrastructure is being frenetically constructed and sights are being renovated; the best time to visit as a tourist will thus probably be right after the Olympics.

Contents

[edit] Administrative Divisions

Beijing has a total of 16 districts and 2 counties.

[edit] Districts

8 districts are close to the city centre:

  • Dongcheng District (东城区)
  • Xicheng District (西城区)
  • Chongwen District (崇文区)
  • Xuanwu District (宣武区)
  • Chaoyang District (朝阳区)
  • Haidian District (海淀区)Home of China's Silicon Valley(Zhongguancun) and 39 universities including Beijing, Tsinghua and Renmin Universities
  • Fengtai District (丰台区)
  • Shijingshan District (石景山区)

The other 8 districts are further afield:

  • Mentougou District (门头沟区)
  • Fangshan District (房山区)
  • Tongzhou District (通州区)
  • Shunyi District (顺义区)
  • Changping District (昌平区)
  • Daxing District (大兴区)
  • Pinggu District (平谷区)
  • Huairou District (怀柔区)

Except for Mentougou, all of these eight districts switched from being counties to districts from 1988 to 2001.

[edit] Counties

The two counties lie very far from central Beijing:

  • Yanqing County (延庆县)
  • Miyun County (密云县)

[edit] Understand

[edit] History

Beijing literally means "northern capital", a role it has played many times in China's long history. While various small towns and warlord capitals have been traced back as far as the 1st millennium BCE, Beijing first served as the capital of a (more or less) united China in 1264 when Kublai Khan's victorious Mongol forces set up the city of Dadu (大都, "Great Capital") to rule their new empire, from a northern location closer to the Mongol homelands.

After the fall of the Mongol Yuan dynasty in 1368, the capital was moved back to Nanjing ("southern capital"), but in 1403, the 3rd Ming emperor Zhu Di moved it to Beijing again and also gave the city its present name. This was Beijing's golden era: the Forbidden City, the Temple of Heaven and many other Beijing landmarks were built at this time. Beijing remained the capital into the Qing era and into the revolutionary ferment of the early 1900s, but in the chaos following the abdication of the last Emperor, Beijing was beset by fighting warlords. The Kuomintang thus moved the capital to Nanjing again in 1928, renaming Beijing as Beiping (北平, "Northern Peace") to emphasize that it was no longer a capital. However, the Kuomintang was eventually defeated by the Communists, who in 1949 proclaimed the People's Republic of China with its capital at Beijing.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Scams at the airport

Arrival: Take your taxis from the stand outside, not the touts or desks inside, and insist on the meter.

Be aware of another scam where imposters who pretend to work for the taxi company pose at the official-looking stands outside offering rides to the city (especially in the non-regular hours where there are not many people about).  You will be led into a "taxi" with a fake meter (which could be hidden) which runs very quickly (¥200-300　to the city).  Read the section on taxis for details on how to identify a legitimate (and fake) taxi.

 Departure: Ignore any people walking around offering to sell you an exit fee ticket/receipt. There used to be an airport construction (or exit) fee of ¥90, but now it is included in the plane ticket.}}

Beijing Capital International Airport (北京首都国际机场, IATA: PEK) [1] is located to the northeast of the central districts, 26km from the city centre. The airport is being expanded at a furious pace to be ready in time for the 2008 Olympics. Terminal 2, opened in 1999, is still new and shiny, with contemporary abstract architecture, while Terminal 1 was renovated in 1995. Facilities on arrival include ATMs and money changers.

Be aware that upon departure, porters want ¥10 to wheel your bags 50m to check-in and that most eating options are rather outrageously priced. Before you cross through security, if you want a bite to eat in the Terminal 1, there is a KFC which has lowered its prices a little, and in Terminal 2, there are 2 KFCs, and the eateries in the basement have relatively low prices compared to what's above. However, a bite would still be ¥20 at KFC or at the eateries.

Most people use taxicabs to reach town from the airport. Get your travel agent to get you the Chinese name of your hotel so that you can let your taxi driver read where you want to go. A taxi from the airport should cost ¥70-120. You will have to pay the fee shown on the meter (make sure the driver uses it) plus ¥10 toll for the airport expressway.

The cheapest way to get to the city center is to take the airport shuttle. There are several lines running to different locations throughout Beijing. Trips are frequent, and tickets cost ¥16 for a one-way trip. Follow signs for the 机场巴士 (jīchǎng bāshì) to find all the lines:

  • Line 1: Xidan (Aviation Building, 民航大厦　mínháng dàshà) - Dongzhimen (50m east of the bridge, 东直门) - Sanyuan Qiao (west entrance of the Jingxin Tower, 京信大厦西门　jīngxìn dàshà xīmén) - Airport. Runs 6am-7:30pm. Convenient for Chaoyang and Xicheng, and the city center, such as Wangfujing and Qianmen
  • Line 2: Gongzhufen (north entrance of the Xinxing Hotel, 新兴宾馆北门 xīnxìng bīnguǎn běimén) - Friendship Hotel (airlines office at the north gate, 友谊宾馆北门航空售票处　yǒuyì bīnguǎn běimén hángkōng shòupiào chù) - Bei Taiping Zhuang (50m east of the intersection, 北太平庄 běi tàipíng zhuāng) - Airport. Runs 6am-7:30pm. Stops near the People's University (人民大学). Convenient for the west and northwest of the city, i.e. Haidian.
  • Line 3: Beijing Railway Station intersection (北京站口 běijīng zhànkǒu) - Dongzhimen (50m east of the bridge) - Jingxin Tower west entrance - Airport. Runs 6am-7:30pm. The Beijing Railway Station stop is actually at the west gate of the International Hotel (国际饭店 guójì fàndiàn), across Chang'an Avenue. Convenient for the city center, the southeast of the city, and Chaoyang, Chongwen, and Dongcheng districts.
  • Line 4: Fangzhuang (Fangzhuang Guiyou Shopping Center, 方庄贵友大厦 fānzhuāng guìyǒu dàshà) - Dabeiyao (Nanhang Hotel, 大北窑南航大酒店 dàběiyáo nánháng dàjǐudiàn) - Airport. Runs 6am-7:30pm. Convenient for the south of the city and Guomao (the World Trade Center).
  • Line 5: Zhongguancun (Second Bridge, 中关村二桥 zhōngguāncūn èrqiáo) - north gate of the Beijing University of Aviation and Aerosapce (北京航空航天大学北门 běijīng hángkōng hángtiān dàxué běimén) - Huixin West Street, in front of the Anhui Tower (惠新西街 安徽大厦 huìxīn xī jiē　ānhuī dàshà) - Huixin East Street (惠新东街 huìxīn dōng jiē) - Airport. Runs 7am-7:30pm. Convenient for Haidian (the university district) and the north.

Public bus #359 also runs from the airport to Dongzhimen, where you can catch subway 2 or 13, but this is not very fast or convenient.

There are also many shuttle buses to youth hostels and luxury hotels. You could get on for free if you say that you will stay at that hotel.

The Beijing subway system should complete its spur to the airport in 2008.

Nanyuan Airport (南苑机场, IATA: NAY) is a former military airfield 17km to the south of Beijing, currently used only by army-linked low-cost operator China United (中国联合 zhōngguó liánhé). China United currently fields daily flights to Harbin, Dalian, Sanya, Chongqing, Chengdu, and Wuxi. Free shuttle buses run from China United's ticket office at the Xidan Aviation Building (西单民航大厦) to the airport from 6am-2:10pm; buses run from the airport to Xidan from 11:40am-10:40pm.

[edit] By train

Beijing has four major railway station. Most trains arrive at the central or West stations.

  • Beijing Railway Station (北京站). In the heart of the city.
  • Beijing West Railway Station (北京西站). Presently the largest of the four.
  • Beijing North Railway Station (北京北站). Very small compared to the other three, but you might end up here if you are coming in from Inner Mongolia.]
  • Beijing South Railway Station (北京南站). Closed until 2008, when it will reopen to offer high-speed services to Tianjin

[edit] By car

By the time of the Olympics in 2008, foreigners will be allowed to rent vehicles while in China.

Beijing is the hub of several expressways heading in all directions and the following is a list of the expressways and their destinations:

  • Jichang (Airport) Expressway (Beijing (Sanyuanqiao - Siyuan - Beigao - Xiaotianzu - Beijing Capital International Airport))
  • Jingcheng (Beijing (Taiyanggong - Wanghe Bridge - Gaoliying - Huairou - Miyun - Gubeikou) - Luanping (Hebei) - Chengde)
  • Jingtong/Jingha (Beijing (Dawang Bridge - Sihui - Gaobeidian - Shuangqiao - Huicun - Tongzhou District))
  • Jingshen (Beijing (Sifang Bridge - Shiyuan Bridge - Huoxian County, Tongzhou - Xiji) - Xianghe (Hebei) - Jixian County (Tianjin) - Jinwei - Tangshan (Hebei) - Beidaihe - Qinhuangdao - Shanhaiguan - Jinzhou (Liaoning) - Shenyang)
  • Jingjintang (Beijing (Fenzhongsi - Shibalidian - Dayangfang - Majuqiao - Caiyu) - Langfang (Hebei) - Tianjin (Yangcun - Central Tianjin - Tianjin Airport - Tanggu District/TEDA))
  • Jingkai (Beijing (Yuquanying - Daxing - Huangcun - Panggezhuang - Yufa) - China National Highway 106))
  • Jingshi (Beijing (Liuliqiao - Wanping - Liulihe) - Shijiazhuang (Hebei)) {Also known as the 'Jingzhu Expressway' (Beijing - Zhuhai)}
  • Badaling (Jingzhang) Expressway (Beijing - Badaling Expressway - Donghuayuan - Huailai - Xiahuayuan - Zhangjiakou)

11 China National Highways (国道) also link into Beijing. G101 - Jingshun Road (Beijing - Shenyang, Liaoning) G102 - Jingha Road (Beiling - Harbin, Heilongjiang) G103 - (Beijing - Tanggu, Tianjin) G104 - Nanyuan Road (Beijing - Fuzhou, Fujian) G105 - (Beijing - Zhuhai, Guangdong) G106 - (Beijing - Guangzhou, Guangdong) G107 - (Beijing - Shenzhen, Guangdong) G108 - Jingyuan Road (Beijing - Chengdu - Kunming, Yunnan) G109 - Fushi Road (Beijing - Datong - Yinchuan - Xining - Golmud - Lhasa, Tibet) G110 - (Beijing - Zhangjiakou - Hohhot - Baotou - Yinchuan, Ningxia) G111 - (Beijing - Jiagedaqi, Inner Mongolia)

[edit] By bus

Long-distance buses from areas as far as Shanghai and the Mongolian border connect to Beijing. You can reach areas as far as Harbin or Xian on a single bus ride. Beijing has 12 long distance bus stations and what you need to do is go to the bus station located on the edge of the city in the direction you want to travel. Zhougongkou Long Distance Bus Station handles buses heading south and southeast. Dongzhimen Long Distance Bus Station handles buses heading northeast. Xizhimen Long Distance Bus station handles buses heading west. Deshengmen Long Distance Bus Station handles buses for north and northwest. These long distance bus stations also have buses for related direction destinations but on a limited frequency basis.

Most of the buses from the Long Distance Bus Stations will be regular or express buses, which take the expressways, cost from ¥200-600 per trip, have comfy seats, and most rides don't take more than 6-12 hours, but sleeper buses are also available. A sleeper bus, with bunk beds in rows, average about ¥100 per trip, but many go REALLY slow up hills, they avoid expressways, stop at every city or town, some to give "meals" which you have to pay extra for, they take the potholed National Highways to save money, and a bus ride can take up to 24 hours. The average speed is only 40 km/hr on the moderately fast sleeper buses, and the range could be from 25 to 60 km/hr. It is a good authentic experience of how the lower class travels.

[edit] Get around

Though many residents of Beijing know conversational English, one should not count on finding a taxi driver who knows English well. Neither should a foreigner with minimal experience with the Chinese language put undue faith in his or her ability to pronounce Chinese place names so that a local can understand clearly. Before embarking on a trip around the city, print out the names of places you want to visit in Chinese characters. Show the text to the taxi driver, or just ask for help on the street. You have more chance to get help in English if you address younger people, as many schools in China have expanded their English education in the last few years.

[edit] By train / subway

The subway is an excellent way to quickly get around the city and a traveller can easily figure it out through the station maps and English signs and language. Beijing now has four subway lines:

  • Line 1 (一号线) runs from the industrial Pingguoyuan (苹果园) area in the west to Sihui East (四惠东) in eastern Beijing. It has 21 stops and follows Chang'an Dajie, the main avenue of Beijing. It links Xidan, Tian'anmen East and West, Wangfujing, Dongdan, Guomao, and Yong'anli. Transfer stations are at Fuxingmen (Line 2), Jianguomen (Line 2), and Sihui/Sihui East (Batong Line).
  • Line 2 (二号线) is also called the Loop Line (环线) and follows the 2nd Ring Road (二环路). Major stops of interest include Qianmen, a major transportation hub as well as an attraction in its own right. Transfer stations are at Fuxingmen (Line 2), Jianguomen (Line 2), Xizhimen (Line 13), and Dongzhimen (Line 13).
  • Line 13 (十三号线) does an extended northern semi-loop from Dongzhimen (东直门) via Huilongguan (回龙观) through to Xizhimen (西直门). Transfer stations are at Xizhimen and Dongzhimen (both to Line 2).
  • The Batong Line (八通线) runs east from Sihui (四惠) to Tuqiao (土桥) in eastern suburban Beijing. Transfer stations are at Sihui and Sihui East (both to Line 1). The Batong Line is not of much use for travelers.

Seven additional subway lines are under construction in preparation for the 2008 Olympics.

The subway station entrances are identified by a large blue stylized letter B wrapped around a smaller letter D.

Purchase tickets at the window. Note that if you want two tickets, do not show your thumb and index finger, the Chinese way to signify numbers is different from the west, thumb and index finger mean seven not two.

The ticket for Lines 1 and 2 costs ¥3 and transferring between these two lines are free. The fare for Line 13 is ¥3 and for the Batong Line is ¥2. If you are transferring to Line 13 or the Batong Line, purchase the combination ticket (Line 2 and Line 13 fare: ¥5, Line 1 and Batong Line: ¥4).

All the lines use paper tickets, except for Line 13, which has magnetic tickets and automatic fare collection machines. When transferring to Line 13 from Line 2, you will first exchange your paper ticket for a magnetic ticket at the booths before the automatic barrier.

[edit] By bicycle

Once known as a nation of bicycles, China today has a growing number of private car owners. Still, you are guaranteed to see more bikes than anywhere else in your life. Exploring Beijing on a bike is excellent since the city is flat as a pancake, and all major streets have bike lanes. Bicycling is often faster than car, taxi or bus because of the traffic congestion in the motorized traffic lanes.

Four-wheeled motorized traffic in Beijing usually observes traffic signals with the exception of making turns on red lights which is often done without slowing or deferring to pedestrians or bicyclists. Pedestrians, bicycles and all other vehicles (for example, motorized bicycles, mopeds and tricycles) generally do not observe traffic signals. Also, cars, trucks and buses do not defer to bicyclists on the road so it is common for a vehicle to make a right turn from an inside lane across a bike lane with no concern for bicyclists traveling in the bike lane. Sometimes a right-turning vehicle crossing a bike lane will sound its horn as a warning, but not always. Bicyclists also need to be on the lookout for wrong-way traffic in the bike lanes, usually bicycles and tricycles but sometimes motor vehicles, too. Wrong-way traffic usually stays close to the curb so you move to the left to get by them, but not always. Helmets are not worn by bicycling Beijingers. Nor are lights used at night with few bikes even having rear reflectors. The moderate pace and sheer numbers of bicyclists in Beijing appears to make bike travel safer than it would be otherwise.

While you will see bicyclists use many creative paths across wide, busy intersections in Beijing, the safest way for bicyclists is to observe the traffic signals (there are often special signals for bicyclists) and to make left turns in two steps as a pedestrian would. But if you spend any significant amount of time bicycling in Beijing, you will probably start adopting more creative approaches. These can be learned by finding a local bicyclist going your way and following him or her across the intersection.

For adventuresome and fit bicyclist on a fast bike, it is possible to motor pace behind an electric bicycle or moped. Their top speed is about 35 kph, so it is possible to zoom around Beijing in the draft of an electric vehicle when traffic in the bike lane permits. If you have made a good choice, you will both make it to your destinations!

Several professional bike rental companies, as well as major hotels and some hostels, rent bikes on an hourly basis. For those who need the security of a guide, a bike touring company like Bicycle Kingdom Rentals & Tourswould be a great way to go.

[edit] By bus

Beijing's bus system is cheap, convenient and covers the entire city—perfect for locals but, alas, difficult to use if you don't understand Chinese. The bus staff speak little English, and only a few bus lines in the city center broadcast stop names in English. Bus stop signs are also entirely in Chinese. But should you speak Chinese or have a healthy sense of adventure, a bus can get you almost anywhere, and often somewhere that you never intended to go: it's a great way to see parts of the city that tourists normally don't visit.

A flurry of shiny new buses have arrived on the streets in preparation for the Olympics. Many buses now feature air-conditioning (heating in winter), TVs, a scrolling screen that displays stops in Chinese, and a broadcast system that announces stops. If you are having problems navigating the bus system, call the English-speaking operators at the Beijing Public Transportation Customer Helpline (96166).

Warning: Beijing buses can get very crowded so be prepared and keep an eye on your valuables. Many pickpockets frequent buses and subways, so carry backpacks in the front, and try to put your valuables somewhere hard to access. Be aware of a scam offering bus rides to the Great Wall masquerading as the real bus service. Instead of directly driving to the Great Wall, you will instead be led to a series of tours to dilapidated theme parks, tourist shops, museums, etc before finally reaching the Great Wall near the end of the day.

[edit] Bus routes

Bus lines are numbered from 1-999. Buses under 300 serve the city center. Buses 300 and up run between the city center and more distant areas (such as beyond the Third Ring Road). Buses in the 900s connect Beijing with its "rural" districts (i.e., Changping, Yanqing, Shunyi, etc) that are not considered part of Beijing proper.

Full maps of the system are available only in Chinese. The Beijing Public Transport Co. [2] website has limited information in English, but the Chinese version has a very helpful routing service with an interactive map. You can input your starting point and your ending point and see all the bus routes that will get you from A to B, look up a bus route by number, or input a place name and see all the routes that go stop there.

[edit] Fares and operating hours

Most buses with a line number under 200 run daily from 5:00 to 23:00. Buses with a line number greater than 300 run from 6:00 till 20:00-22:00. All buses with a line number in the 200s are night buses. Many routes get very crowded during rush hours (6:30-9:00 and 17:00-19:00). On all major holidays, there will be more frequent service on most city routes.

For passengers paying by cash: Lines 1-199 operate on a flat rate of ¥1 per journey. Lines 300-899 charge ¥1 for the first 12km of each journey and ¥0.5 for each additional 5km. Buses with air-condition start at ¥2. The night buses (200-299) charge ¥2 per journey.

For passengers paying by the new pre-paid Smart Card (yikatong): Lines 1-499 operate on a flat rate of ¥0.40 per journey. Lines 500-899 get 60% off the cash price. There are also 3-day, 7-day and 15-day passes available for travelers. There is no return ticket or day ticket.

[edit] By minibus

Minibuses are very common in the countryside outside the urban areas. Privately operated, most trips cost less than ¥10 per short journey and only a little more for longer journeys.

[edit] By taxi

Taxis are the preferred choice for getting around, as they are convenient and are fairly inexpensive for travelers from Western countries. The only downside is that Beijing's congested traffic often results in long jams. Vehicles used as taxis include the Hyundai Sonata and Elantra, Volkswagen Santana and Jetta (the old model, designed in the 1980s), and China-made Citroens. These taxis are dark red, or yellow top with dark blue bottom, or painted with new colors (see picture). Luxurious black executive cars (usually Audis) can also be found, usually waiting outside hotels.

[edit] Fares and meters

Beginning from June 2006, all taxis charge a starting fee of ¥10, and an additional ¥2 per kilometer after the first 3km. Taxi meters keep running when the speed is slower than 12km per hr. or when waiting for green lights; five minutes of waiting time equals 1 km running. Outside of rush hour, an average trip through the city costs around ¥20-25, and a cross-town journey about ¥50 (for example, from the city center to the northern side of the Fourth Ring Road).

If the taxi driver "forgets" to switch the taxi meter on, remind him or her by politely saying "qǐng dǎ biǎo" (请打表) (pronunciation: qǐng slightly like "ching", da like "Dalai Lama", biao= b(b in "blue") -i(y in "yen") -ao(au in "Austria"). This means "Run the meter, please". Get a receipt (in case you want to make a complaint later or for business reimbursement purposes) by saying "fā piào" (发票) or gesturing at the meter and making a writing motion.

If you want a tour around Beijing and its vicinities, you can ask your hotel to hire a cab for one day or several days. It usually costs ¥400-600 per day, depending on where you go. If you have Chinese-speaking assistance, then bargain down the cost. No matter the cost, the taxi is yours for the day and will wait for you at various destinations.

Communicating with the drivers can be a problem, as most do not speak English. You can ask that your hotel write your destination on a card to give to the driver. Make sure also to take the hotel's card (and a map) that lists the hotel's address in Chinese. This can be a 'get out of jail free' card if you get lost and need to get back via taxi. A regular city map with streets and sights in Chinese will help also.

[edit] Avoiding scams and fakes

All official taxis have license plates beginning with the letter "B", as in "京B". "Black cabs" may look like taxis but their license plates will start with letters other than B. It's nearly impossible to hail a black cab on the streets; they generally hang out around tourist sights like the Great Wall and the Summer Palace or around subway stops. Black cabs will charge you a higher fee for the journey, unless you are a good bargainer, know where you are going, and know what the right fare should be. Sometimes they drop foreign tourists in wrong places. In some extreme cases, the driver may even take them to the countryside and rob them. If you find you hired a fake taxi and are overcharged, don't argue if you are alone, pay the driver and remember the car's license plate number, then call police later.

To avoid being taken advantage of, it is a good idea to know the rough direction, cost, and distance of your destination. You can easily find this out from asking locals before calling a cab. Verify these values with the taxicab driver to show them that you are in the know, and are probably too much trouble to cheat. Keep track of the direction of travel with a compass and/or the sun. If the cab goes in the wrong direction for a long distance, verify the location with the taxi driver. For scamming drivers, that is usually enough for them to go back on the right track (without ever acknowledging that they were trying to cheat you). Honest drivers will explain why they are going that way.

Keep in mind that central Beijing can be off limits at certain times, forcing cabs to reroute. And some roads forbid left turns (with big road signs) either at certain hours or all the time, so the driver might make a detour.

[edit] By car

Renting a car normally is not recommended for the ordinary visitor. Besides being extremely expensive, driving in Beijing can be quite complicated, language difficulties included. Many hotels, however, rent cars that come with drivers, for those who can afford it, up to 1000 yuan per day.

  • BCNC Car Rental. Toll-free in China 010800/810-9001 (thompsonwest@mindspring.com). Based at the Capital Airport, this agency is appointed as an option by several guides. An air ticket is required, as well as an international driving license. Mind you that deposits can be huge, and there are extra charges for permission to venture beyond the city limits.
  • Avis also operates a car-rental service in Beijing.

See also Driving in China.

[edit] See

Many tourist areas in Beijing are under renovation for the 2008 Olympics. The Forbidden City and the Summer Palace all had sections under renovation as of the middle of March 2006. Renovations on the Temple of Heaven are completed. As a plus, ticket prices were reduced for sights under renovation. Just be aware that prior to the Olympics there may be continued renovations.

  • Forbidden City (故宫 gù gōng) (also known as the Palace Museum) Get there when the gates open (around 8.30am) if you want to walk through the vast and spectacular courtyards in relative peace. This is truly the spot to appreciate the might and grandeur of the Imperial Chinese court during the height of its power in the Ming and Qing dynasties. Despite the transformation of the city around it, the Forbidden City remains mercifully relatively untouched. A few years ago there was a lot of local fuss when a Starbucks coffee shop opened in the Forbidden City, some interpreting this as a return to the bad old days of colonial domination. Despite the fuss it is still there, on an inconspicuous corner, and still serving coffee. Only 2/5 area of the palace is opened, but some places are under restorations and will be opened before 2008.
  • Tiananmen Square (天安门 Tiānān mén) (largest square in the world!) Built by Mao to impress; his riposte to the Forbidden City, the square is surrounded by Soviet-style monuments and government buildings, and houses Mao's mausoleum at the end opposite the entrance to the Forbidden City. It remains an astounding place and a spot to linger and see visitors from all over China, many visiting their capital for the first time. There is a flag raising and lowering ceremony at dawn and dusk. There are 4 marble lions in front of the Tiananmen gate, the northwest one has a bullet hole on its stomach.
  • Temple of Heaven (天坛 tiāntán), south east of Qianmen and the Tiananmen Square. Not only a beautiful sight, but also surrounded by a vast public park popular with local residents practicing tai chi, dancing, and so on in the mornings and on weekends. Home to many ancient trees, this is also the greenest place in Beijing. Just a short stroll away from the historical sights will bring you to peaceful woods and, amazingly, solitude (especially toward the West Gate). The temple itself was the site where the emperor prayed every year for good harvests and fair weather. Can be reached by buses 2, 7, 17, 20, 110, 120, 726, 803, 826 to the West Gate (天坛西门 stop); or buses 35 and 106 to the North Gate (天坛北门). Park and historical sights (like the temple) ¥35, park only ¥15.
  • Summer Palace (颐和园 Yíhé yuán) extensive gardens and the ruins of palaces constructed by the Qing emperors. Most visitors stay in the front hill area, but if you prefer quiet places, the west bank and back hill areas are good choices. There are some quiet and secret ruins, caves, and other fun stuff in the back hill area.
  • Zoo (北京动物园) (they do have Pandas, but displays are not great, your best bet is to go to the Panda Breeding Centre in Chengdu, Sichuan Province). Some think the Zoo is one of the worst you will ever see (partly because of the way they treat animals), BUT the aquarium is one of the biggest in the world, and very impressive. The Zoo was built on the sites of some ancient gardens, has lakes, pounds, pavilions and other beautiful old buildings. The Soviet revival Beijing Exhibition Hall is located nearby and has a Russian restaurant, "Moscow Restaurant".
  • Winter Palace (北海 Běihǎi) - Beihai is a good place to take a glance at Zhongnanhai (中南海 Zhōngnánhǎi), heart of Communist China. There's a big island and white pagoda which was built in the 17th century. The giant buildings westward outside are PRC's Ministry of Defence and General Staff, which, to be honest, ruin the scene of the west bank. On the north bank, you can visit some small but beautiful gardens.
  • Yonghegong (雍和宮 Yōnghégōng) - (also known as Lama Temple or Palace of Peace) The temple was built by Chinese emperors who harbored a deep fascination for the Tibetan (Tantric) version of Buddhism. Over the years many Tibetan and Mongolian monks lived and taught here, and there are still monks in residence today. The temple is famous for its 18m statue of Maitreya Buddha carved from a single piece of sandalwood.
  • Prince Gong's Mansion(恭王府 gong1 wang2 fu3) - The garden is fulled with Chinese tourists, and the mansion will be opened as a museum before 2008, which will display the life of princes during the Qing dynasty
  • Legation Quarter - east of Tiananmen Square, once famous in the Boxer Rebellion, the legation quarter is now occupied by government offices and army offices but can still be seen from outside. There's a wonderful bakery store called "Sapporo" near the legation quarter, famous for its breads and cheesecakes.
  • Fragrant Hills (香山 xiāng shān), in the northwestern corner of Beijing. A good place for weekend outings and picnics. Formerly a Qing imperial garden, today Fragrant Hills makes an easy short climb in the suburbs of Beijing. It's also home to the Fragrant Hills Hotel, designed by I.M. Pei (Louvre Museaum Pyramid). Take buses 331, 726 to the last stop. ¥10, students ¥5.
  • Beijing Botanical Gardens (北京植物园 běijīng zhíwù yuán), steps away from the east gate of Fragrant Hill. Acres of greenery and flowers for those tired of urban smog and traffic noise. Sir Johnston, teacher of the last emperor Puyi, had a villa in Cherry Glen, a silent and beautiful retreat in the Gardens. In the spring, the gardens hosts special exhibits of tulips, peach and plum blossoms, peonies, and the like. Take buses 331, 726. ¥10, students ¥5.
  • The Hutong Villages (胡同 hú tòng) of Beijing most represent the traditional housing of Chinese locals. Some of the streets in the Qianmen Hutong (前门胡同) have a history around 500 years, with unchanged street layouts. The Qianmen area is undergoing aggressive restoration and gentrification that will continue through 2010. As a result some of the streets are blocked by construction. The Hutongs are the perfect place to get a glimps of Chinese daily life. The majority of Hutongs have been demolished to make space for modern buildings. For these reasons, the Hutongs are considered very valuable and are a popular tourist attraction. Rickshaws carrying tourists weave in and out of the narrow streets of the Hutong Village to give individuals an up-close look at these homes.
  • China Aviation Museum is a must see for all aviation fans. It is located about 50 km outside Beijing in Changping District and is probably better known by the name Datangshan. Best way to get there is to arrange a taxi from your hotel. The other more adventurous way is to take bus 912 from Andingmen bus station, just remember that 912 has some branch lines and not all of these go via museum. Museum hosts over 200 exhibits, many of them very rare. Entrance fee is ¥45.
  • The Museum of History and the Museum of the Revolution is on the east side of Tiananmen square. It is undergoing renovation from 2007 until 2010 and will not be accessible until finished.

[edit] Do

  • Rent a bicycle and traverse some of the remaining hutongs. Companies like The Bicycle Kingdom [3] rent bikes for foreigners.
  • Visit Temple of Heaven(天坛) early in the morning to see thousands of Beijingers starting the day with tai chi.
  • Have a highly enjoyable and relaxing foot massage and/or pedicure etc. (for a fraction of the price in the West) from any of the respectable and professional offerings in central Beijing (in the vicinity of the Beijing Hotel for example).
  • See a Beijing opera at the Laoshe Tea House (老舍茶馆) near Qianmen station. There always are short displays in the afternoon (about 40 min). They are free of admission, but you should buy a cup of tea. Long displays are in the evening. You should book a seat in advance, since the place is always crowded.
  • Beijing Olympic Tours. http://www.tickets-beijing2008.com/
  • 2008 Summer Olympics. http://en.beijing2008.com/
  • Shoot Chinese automatic guns and other crazy military grade weapons at the International Shooting Range north of Beijing. Contact tel: +861069771368 ext 3103 (Chinese only). Website: http://www.bfshoot.com/
  • Enjoy life as the locals do at a spa complex. The Bigeast Ocean Gymnastic Club (ignore the Gymnastic part, tel: +861087323329/+861087323328, 200m eash of Huawei Bridge) has a huge sauna, 3 different kinds of spas to soak in, a steam room, and showers. After a jaunt in the spa room, get dressed up in pajamas and head upstairs to witness a variety show with comedians, singers, and clowns. After the show, you can relax in the reclining sofa room or grab some snacks from the cafe. The truly unique experience for someone who's "seen it all" in China.

[edit] Learn

[edit] Private Schools

  • Frontiers School (private school, cheaper than studying Chinese at any of the above, nice staff) http://frontiers.com.cn/
  • Easyou private school, you can study for as little as a week, or for many months. Staff are friendly and helpful.
  • That's Mandarin one on one lessons. I did not study with this person myself, but I spoke to an Australian who was at Easyou for a few days before switching to this place. He much prefered the individual attention and said the teacher was very skillful.
  • The Beijing Center for Chinese Studies- A learning institution initially supported by Loyola Marymount University and currently by Loyola University of Chicago.

[edit] Work

Most of the commercial areas are in the following areas:

  • Guomao (国贸)
  • Dawang (大望)
  • Eastern 3rd Ring Road (东三环)
  • Chao yangmen (朝阳门）
  • Hai dian(海淀)

Wherever you see the acronym CBD, it means it is located near the Central Business District. It can be both residential or commercial area.

Like all of China, finding a job teaching English in Beijing is relatively easy for native speakers. In fact, if you are of European descent some employers may assume that you are already qualified enough to teach English to Chinese students. However, more prestigious employers (especially universities and language schools) will generally require an English teaching qualification or a Bachelor's degree (normally in any discipline, although sometimes specifically in English/linguistics).

Caution: there has been something of an "explosion" in English teaching in recent years, but this has brought some attendant problems with unregulated schools who fail to deliver on their contracts with teaching staff. You are advised to check with existing teachers before signing a teaching contract with an unknown school.

See also: Teaching English

[edit] Buy

  • Throughout nearly all markets in Beijing, bargaining is essential. Especially when browsing through large, "touristy" shopping areas for common items, do not put it beneath your dignity to start bargaining at 15% of the vendor's initial asking price. After spending some time haggling, never hesitate to threaten walking away, as this is often the quickest way to see a vendor lower his or her prices to a reasonable level. Also if you buy more then one at a time, you need to get a better deal then buying one at a time. So if you are with friends, try buying two silk dresses or watches at the same time. Beware that if you start your bargaining at too low of a price, such as 5% of the asking price, the vendor may just immediately give up on trying to sell the item to you. How high or low the vendor sets the asking price depends on the customer, the vendor, the product's popularity, and even the time of day. Vendors also tend to target visible minorities more, such as Caucasians or African Americans.
  • The true clothing market where the Chinese buy, is located in Xizhi Men, next to the Zoo. directions: in front of the Zoo there is a new huge building, which is just another big market, BUT behind it, there is the wholesale market, with the best prices, almost no need to bargain, and a lot of genuine goods (clothing).
  • The Malls at Oriental Plaza (东方新天地) - East of Tian'anmen Square, next to Wangfujing Street. Shopping area (expensive) but provides you with a lot of buying opportunities from diamonds, to real (affordable) DVD's, (international) Music CD's and food.
  • Wangfujing (王府井大街)- where most of the higher end shops are located
  • Xidan(西单) - West of Tiananmen square. Several large malls near a substation, and look for the market, it's quite good - bargaining is a must (sellers even enjoy it)!
  • Golden Resources Shopping Mall near Yuanda Bridge / Yuanda Road -- Located by West Fourth Ring Road (Xisihuan) in Haidian District, Beijing, the mall covers 680.000 square meters, the second largest in Asia. Multiple stories, snaking alleys, infinite shopping opportunities... you get the gist.
  • China World Trade Center (Guomao) -- here you will find a lot of expensive stores and some international convenience stores.
  • Silk Street (秀水街) -- 8 East Xiushui Street Jianguo Men Wai Dajie. This building is located east of Tian an men square. It was reopened in March 2005 as a 5 story air conditioned building selling entirely for foreign visitors with 'export' quality goods. You can find luggage, leather bags, electronics, sporting goods, jewellery, clothing and Chinese artwork. This location caters entirely to foreign customers. The place stocks higher 'export' quality merchandise and out-of-season clothing.
  • SanLiTun YaShou Clothing Market -- Located at 58 Gongti Beilu, this is very similar to Silk Street (see above) with slightly better prices. Its less touristy than Silk Street, and prices will start far closer to a reasonable sale price. The net result is the bargaining is far less agressive and you will probably feel more comfortable with your purchases here.
  • For the more technologically-oriented tourist, Zhong Guan Cun (中关村）is a must. Located a couple miles from Tsinghua University, this area is dubbed "Silicon Valley of China." Sells everything from speakers to computer parts at an astonishingly low price. There are many salesmen who will try to make you go take a look at their shop, it is best to avoid them. If one looks around at the small shops inside the large malls, they may find a box filled with pirated CDs and DVDs, usually selling at 5 to 10 Yuan. Don't have too high an expectation of the quality, though, many of them are 'gun versions' filmed in the cinema with a camcorder. If you really want to buy it, look for '英文' (yingwen) which means English language.
  • Sanfo is the leading outdoor gear stores in China and their stores in Beijing are located at Building 4, Entrance 5, Nancun, Madian (Metro 2 to Zhishuitan, bus 315, 344 or 345 to Madian, store is located southside of Bei Sanhuan, west of Madian intersection) and at Jinzhiqiao Dasha, Guomen, Chaoyang District (west entrance of China International Trade Center, continue west along northside of street to east side of second block of buildings).

[edit] Antiques and Specialty Items

  • Pan Jia Yuan(潘家园) - also called the "dirt market" or the "weekend market" this is China's largest and possibly its most entertaining flea market. It operates from Sunday to Saturday, but most people visit there at Saturdays and Sundays, and it is located near Pan Jia Yuan bridge, on the eastern third ring road. It begins early, around 7am in summer and 8am in winter (4:00 am in weekend). The fleamarket includes antiques (plenty of both genuine and fake varieties) and large sections selling modern porcelain, jade, carved stone and wood, paintings, furnitures, and other decorative items, used books, maps, Cultural Revolution relatives (some are copies made in recent years). There are also sections selling Tibetan goods (mostly of low quality, especially the paintings). Ethnic textiles from Yunnan and Guizhou provinces are amongst the more interesting buys at the moment. Well worth a visit, unless you are allergic to crowds. Remember to haggle, try offer 1/3 to 1/10 of the original price, and don't expect too much to find some genuine antiques there (even they got such stuffs, they will prefer sell them to their familiar customers). It also,provides shipping service for large items to main ports arond the world.
  • Liulichang (琉璃厂, stove of coloured glaze) - there are no stoves any more, but all antique stores, sell Chinese painting, handicrafts, used books and other stuffs. This place was the most popular and fantastic place in old Peking, but was closed in the 1960s. Though it was re-opend in thr mid 1980s, the original fantastic stores are state-owned, no longer attactive for local people. But people could still find interesting things there. In Chinese new year, there's a 15-day folk fair there. Liulichang is not far from subway's Heping Men Station.
  • Gu Wan Cheng (古玩城) - on the 3rd ring road, just beyond Pan Jia Yuan, this 4 storey white building houses the more upmarket variety of Chinese antiques, with prices to match. The management have been making determined efforts to stamp out fakes and low quality items in recent years, and to some extent they have succeeded, but the rule that applies to all antique shopping in China still remains in force: let the buyer beware.
  • Hong Qiao - this is not far from the Temple of Heaven, and worth visiting for the state-run silk market, but more especially for the pearl market in the building opposite. The top two floors of this market are filled with jewelry, and this may be the best place in China to buy pearls, coral, turquoise, amber and other semi-precious stones. The presence of a large number of stalls keeps the prices fairly keen, but shop around, keep a smile on your face and bargain hard.
  • Hotel shops and Department stores - not the most characterful shopping in China, but worth a look and generally less likely (but not immune from) selling complete duds. The old style of Chinese retailing is gradually being transformed by shops with better design sense and souvenir items are getting better each year. Silk items (clothing, table settings and so on) such as those sold by Emperor (Kempinski Hotel and other spots around town) are worth a look, as are porcelain, specialty tea and other traditional items.
  • Carpet stores: the carpet business is strong in Beijing and you will find all manner of stores selling silk carpets and other varieties. For Tibetan carpets try Torana Gallery at the Kempinski Hotel, one of the few places selling carpets that are actually made in Tibet.

[edit] Eat

The best way to eat good and cheap in Beijing is to enter one of the ubiquitous restaurants where the locals are eating and pick a few different dishes from the menu. Truth be told, anyone familiar with Western currency and prices will find Beijing a very inexpensive city for food, especially considering that tipping is not practiced in China.

Some of the cheapest and delicious meals can be had on the streets. Jiānbĭng guŏzi (煎饼果子) is one of the most popular street snacks, eaten from morning till night. This delicious pancake is cooked with an egg on a griddle, a fried dough crisp is added, and the whole thing is drizzled in scallions and a savory sauce. Hot sauce is optional. Diehard fans often go on a quest for the "best" jiānbĭng cart in the city. This ubiquitous treat only costs ¥2, with an extra egg ¥2.50.

Lamb kebabs (羊肉串 yángròu chuàn ) and other kebabs are grilled on makeshift stands all around Beijing, from the late afternoon to late at night. Often, the worst looking grills offer the best taste, so be brave and try them all. Wangfujing has a "snack street" selling such mundane fare like lamb, chicken, and beef, but the brave can also sample silkworm, scorpion, and various organs all skewered on a stick and grilled to order.

A winter specialty, candied haw berries (冰糖葫芦 bīngtáng húlu) are dipped in sugar and sold on a stick. You can also find variations with oranges, grapes, strawberries, and bananas, or dipped in crumbled peanuts as well as sugar. This sweet snack can also sometimes be found in the spring and the summer, but the haw berries are often from last season's crop.

[edit] Beijing Roast Duck

This famous Beijing specialty is served at many restaurants, but there are quite a few restaurants dedicated to the art of roasting the perfect duck. Expect to pay around ¥40 per whole duck at budget-range establishments, and ¥160-¥190 at high-end restaurants. Beijing duck (北京烤鸭 bĕijīng kăoyā) is served with thin pancakes, plum sauce (甜面酱　tiánmiàn jiàng)，and slivers of scallions and cucumbers. You dip the duck in the sauce and roll it up in the pancake with a few slivers of scallions and/or cucumbers. The end result is a mouthwatering combination of the cool crunchiness of the cucumber, the sharpness of the scallions, and the rich flavors of the duck.

  • <eat name="Quánjùdé (全聚德)" address="32 Qianmen Dajie (前门大街32号)" phone="6510 9608" hours="Daily 11:30am-2:30pm and 4:30-8pm" url="http://www.quanjude.com.cn/quanjude.htm"> The oldest and most venerable of the roast duck restaurants, Quanjude is slipping these days, but its fame still brings many customers, mostly tourists eager for the "classic" experience. Ducks cost ¥199 each and ¥99 for half a duck; quality varies by location. Subway: Line 2 to Qianmen. Bus: 2, 120, 726, 826, 803 to Qianmen. The most reputable of Quanjude's 14 branches is the listed Qianmen location. Other branches are at Hepingmen (south of the subway stop), the east side of Tian'anmen Square, and Qinghua Science Park near Wudaokou. </eat>
  • <eat name="Guōlín Restaurant (郭林家常菜)" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">This well-kept secret among Chinese people has some of the tastiest and most inexpensive ducks in all of Beijing. Half a duck is just ¥28. And all its other delicious, innovative dishes keep customers coming back: be prepared for a bustling, noisy atmosphere, though the interior is often quite nice. Locations all over Beijing—look for a sign with two little pigs—including at Fangzhuang, Zhongguancun, Wudaokou, Xuanwu, and more. </eat>
  • <eat name="Dàdŏng (大董烤鸭店)" address="Chaoyang District, Tuanjiehu Beikou Bldg. 3, East 3rd Rind Road (团结湖北口3号楼，东三环长虹桥西南角)" phone="6582 2892" hours="Daily 11am-10pm">Considered by some to be the best Beijing duck in the city, this upscale restaurant also delivers on a nice atmosphere. Reservations suggested. Also at Dongsi Shitiao 22A, Bldg. 1-2 of the Nanxin Cang International Tower (东四十条甲22号南新仓国际大厦1-2楼).</eat>
  • <eat name="Biànyìfăng (便宜坊)" address="Chongwen District 36 Xingfu Dajie (崇文区幸福大街36号) " phone="6711 6545" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="http://www.bianyifang.com">Other locations at 73 Tiantan Dong Lu (天坛东路) and 2A Chongwenmen Wai Dajie (崇文门外大街甲2号).</eat>

[edit] Hot Pot

Beijing is also known for its lamb hotpot (涮羊肉 shuàn yáng ròu), which originally came from the Manchu people and emphasizes lamb over other meats. Like variations of hotpot (general name 火锅 huŏ guō) from elsewhere in China and Japan, lamb hotpot is a cook-it-yourself affair in a steaming pot in the center of the table. Unlike Sichuan hotpot, lamb hotpot features a savory, non-spicy broth. If that's not exciting enough for you, you can also request a spicy broth (be aware that this is flaming red, filled with peppers, and not for the weak!). To play it safe and satisfy everyone, you can request yuānyáng for a pot divided down the middle, with spicy broth on one side and regular broth on the other.

Raw ingredients are purchased by the plate. In addition to lamb, beef, and seafood, this also includes a wide variety of vegetables, mushrooms, noodles, and tofu, so it's also perfectly possible to have vegetarian hotpot. A dipping sauce, usually sesame, is served as well; you can add chilis, garlic, cilantro, etc, to customize your own sauce. While "raw" sounds dangerous, boiling the meat yourself is the best way to ensure that more risky meats like pork are fully cooked and free of germs. In the city center, hotpot can run as much as ¥40-¥50 per person, but on the outskirts it can be found for as little as ¥10-¥25.

  • <eat name="Dōng Lái Shùn (东来顺)" address="Dongcheng District, 198 Wangfujing Dajie (东城区王府井大街198号)" phone="6513-9661" email="" fax="" hours="Daily 11am-2pm and 5-9pm" price="" url="">This king of Beijing hotpot has been around since the 19th century. Founded by the Hui (ethnic Muslims), Donglaishun serves halal cuts of top-quality lamb and beef. Also serves cooked-by-chef dishes, including traditional Beijing sweets. Subway: Line 1 to Wangfujing. Other locations on the 5th floor of Sun Dong'an (New Oriental Sun) Shopping Plaza, at Tian'anmen, and in Haidian (25 Yiheyuan Lu, 颐和园路25号).</eat>

[edit] Other Chinese cuisines

Beijing provides an ideal opportunity to sample food from all over the country. Some of Beijing's best restaurants serve food from Sichuan, Hunan, Canton, Tibet, Yunnan, Xinjiang, and more. Many, such as Makye Ame (11A Xiushui Nanjie Jianguomenwai Beijing Tel: +86 (10) 6506 9616) and Dai Nationality Restaurant feature live dancing and performance, and are not to be missed.

  • <eat name="Gesangmedo (格桑梅朵)" address="Chaoyang District, Xindong Lu, Xingfu Ercun Shangye Building, 2nd fl. (朝阳区新东路幸福二村商业楼二层)" phone="6417-9269" email="" fax="" hours="Daily 11am-11pm" price="" url="">Tibetan food in a beautifully decorated interior, complete with a shrine in one corner. Attentive staff. Nightly live performance begins at 9pm. Subway: Line 2 to Dongzhimen and walk east on Dongzhimen Wai Dajie. Bus: 110, 117, 120, 813, 815, or 823 to Xìngfú Sān Cūn (幸福三村).</eat>
  • <eat name="Red Rose Xingjiang Restaurant (红玫瑰餐厅) " address="Chaoyang District, Gongti Beilu Xingfu Yicun 7 Xiang (朝阳区工体北路幸福一村7巷)" phone="6415 5741" email="" fax="" hours="Daily 10am-midnight" price="" url="">This local and tourist favorite promises the full Xinjiang experience, from kebabs, lamb dishes, and delicious naan bread to a bellydancing show with real Uighur musicians. Not the place to go for quiet conversations. </eat>
  • <eat name="Yuxin Sichuan Restaurant (渝信川菜)" address="Chaoyang District, A5 Xingfu Yicun Xili (朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5号)" phone="6415 8108" email="" fax="" hours="M-F 10am-10pm, Sa-Su 11am-10pm" price="Y15-30 per person" url="">One of the contenders in the ongoing competition for Beijing's best Sichuanese, Yuxin delivers on authenticity, flavor, and service. It's always busy, and always good. Try their location in the Chang'an Grand Theatre for a calmer setting decorated in a traditional style, with alcoves divided by bamboo screens (7 Jiangguomen Nei Dajie, 长安大剧院，建国门内大街7号); take the subway Lines 1 or 2 to Jianguomen, take Exit A, and walk west.</eat>

For vegetarians, Beijing's first pure vegetarian buffet restaurant is located on the Confucius Temple on Guo zi jian street, west of the famous Lama Temple. No English menu so far, but one can just ask for the buffet, which contains a large variety of delicious vegetarian dishes, as well as a vegetarian hotpot, and a large selection of dessert.

[edit] International cuisines

McDonald's has over 100 restaurants in Beijing, followed closely by KFC. As a rule of thumb, whenever there is a McDonalds, a KFC is no further than 100m away. There are also a fair number of Pizza Huts. However, visitors to Pizza Hut should be prepared to take a number and wait in line if they dine around 12:00-13:00 and again from 18:30-19:30 (peak hours), as the restaurant is very popular with young Chinese. You will pay on average ¥60-¥120.


  • Origus has numerous locations throughout Beijing, and offers an all-you-can-eat pizza/pasta buffet for ¥39, including soft drinks and dessert bar.
  • Mirch Masala Indian Cuisine (60-2 Nanluogu Xiang) Located on the still-quiet tourist street of Nanluoguxian, Mirch Masala serves delicious North-Indian dishes.

If you're homesick, head for the Tim's Texas BBQ near the Jianguomen subway station. They'll happily provide you with your favourite American food and drink. Tony Roma's has a location in Wangfujing (in the big big shopping mall near the bookstore).

Korean restaurants are also very common in Beijing. A frequent meal is the grill-it-yourself barbeque, including beef, chicken, and seafood items as well as some vegetables including greens and potatoes.

[edit] Splurge

All luxury hotels have at least one restaurant, which can be of any cuisine they believe their guests will enjoy. You will find French, Italian, American, and Chinese restaurants in most hotels. Of course, restaurants that serve abalone/sharkfin are considered the most expensive restaurants in the city. Expect to pay upwards of ¥800 for a "cheap" meal at one of these restaurants, much more if splurging.

[edit] Drink

Tea, tea, and more tea! Some are in malls, but first ask the price before ordering or else brace yourself for the most expensive egg-sized cup of tea in the world. You can experience different ceremonies of tea at tea houses especially in the Qianman area south of Tiananmen. These can range in price, and some tea houses are really tourist traps whose main goal is to milk you of your money, so be careful. You can get a free tea demonstration at most Tenrenfu tea houses which are located throughout the city and at some malls.

Good coffee is hard to find in most parts of China, although addicts have a place to retreat now that Starbucks has made huge inroads with the emerging middle class. They have at least 50 Starbucks in the capital, most situated around shopping malls and in commercial districts of the city.

Chinese beer can be quite good. The most preferred beer in China is Qingdao (青岛, 10-20 yuan, 2-3 if you buy it from a street vendor) which can also be found in the States. Try Yanjing beer (燕京, 10-15 yuan at restaurants, 2 yuan on the street), which is main beer brand of Beijing. It comes in very large bottles and has 4% alcohol content. (Yanjing is an antiquated name for Beijing.). Both Yanjing and Qingdao now come in "standard" (putong - 普通) and "pure" (chunsheng - 纯生) varieties. You'll also find Beijing beer in some establishments and is only served on draught. It's brewed by the Japanese beer company Asahi which probably explains why you don't see it in many places.

Great Wall is the most popular local brand of wine. Wine made in China are considered not drinkable by most foreigners, but this is probably due to the fact that it is not common among local Chinese to drink it. Giving wine as a gift is not a common custom in most places in China and most people will not be accustomed to wine etiquette or appreciation. Foreign red wines are usually of a much better quality, such as those from the US, France, Australia, and Chile, and you will find them at most upscale restaurants.

The most common hard liquor to get drunk from is Bai jiu (白酒, white liquor). It comes in a large variety everywhere for very cheap prices and should be avoided if you want to have a clear mind for your travels on the next day. Mao Tai (茅台酒) is one of the more famous brands, and costs about as much as an imported bottle of whiskey. A large selection of imported liquor can be found at all bars ranging from tequila to whiskey.

[edit] Places to drink

  • Hou Hai - 后海, a hangout with trendy restaurants and bars in the central part of Beijing. essentially snaking around a man made lake. A great place for a beer, and also to watch local Beijingers (of all ages) enjoying themselves.
  • Sanlitun - 三里屯, this is the center of nightlife in Beijing, located beside the embassy area in Chaoyang district, it comprises a main "bar street" divided into north and south sections, a side street with more casual (and cheaper) bars, and several large clubs/discotheque at the north gate of the worker's stadium near by. Sanlitun has near legendary status amongst travelers, but you are just as likely to be irritated by pushy bar-owners or DVD sellers as you are to be charmed by its bars.
  • Wudaokou - 五道口, where most of the foreign and local University students hang out. There are a number of bars and restaurants which serve a great variety of wine, beer and liquor for cheap. This area is also well known for its huge Korean population and a good place to find Korean food.
  • Dashanzi - 大山子, Beijing's new trendy art zone, out North of the Lido hotel, this old warehouse and factory district has been taken over by art galleries, art shops and bars. Well worth the trip to experience the cutting edge of the Beijing art scene. Also known as Factory 798.
  • Nurenjie - 女人街 (literally "lady's street") and the streets around. This area is situated off Liang Ma Qiao Lu 亮马桥路, a short distance north of the Kempinski Hotel and embassies of Israel, Japan, ROK and USA. By day it has some fashion shops, as its name suggests, but it is also home to some interesting new bars, restaurants and clubs
  • The Tree Wood Fired Pizza Oven and over 40 Belgian Beers. It is an independent western fun restaurant/bar that you can eat and drink at. The place is visited by lots of savvy tourists, but also locals can be found there. Its is located in the Sanlitun area, which a good nightlife. The address is: 43 Bei Sanlitun Nan, Chaoyang District, Beijing. [4]

[edit] Sleep

Foreign visitors often are "restricted" to staying in high-priced official hotels, that restriction being less and less obvious as a great majority of accommodation now takes place in the form of low-cost hotels and hostels. Zhaodaisuos (招待所) are more difficult, and may be fully inaccessible altogether to the foreign community.

[edit] Budget

  • Red Lantern House, No.5 Zhengjue Hutong, Xinjie Kou, Xicheng District. Absolutely adorable hostel with a genuine Chinese feeling. The courtyard in the middle is a great place to hang out, talk to new friends or just sit by yourself and read. Its location in a classical Hutong adds to the feel of experiencing the real China. Dorm beds from 45 Yuan, singles from 130 Yuan, doubles from 140 Yuan. They offer airport pickup for 160 Yuan.
  • Qiao Yuan Fandian: Located not far west from Beijing South trainstation. About 20 yuan from Beijing Zhan (Beijing Train station) by taxi, or take buses 744 or 20; best from Qianmin near Tiananmen Square. There's a whopping 200 ya jin (key deposit) but 4 bed dorms with a/c are reasonabley priced at 31 yuan or 260/360 for standard suites, the more expensive option in the building in the back (newer). Level 6 has a laundry, kitchen, and travel agency. Internet access located towards the train station (look for the fish net character on the signs, or ask for 'wung ba') or a few blocks away to the west near KFC, McDonalds and a supermarket. Plenty of eating is nearby, and also don't miss the Art Deco interior of a hotel/restaurant when its lit up at night (head towards KFC).
  • International Youth Hostel: Located directly across from Beijing Zhan (Beijing train station). Dorms 60 yuan (4-8 beds).
  • Beijing Saga International Youth Hostel, No. 9 Shijia Hutong, Dongcheng District. Tel. 86-10-65272773, 65249098, Sagayangguang. This place is about a 15 minute walk from the Beijing Main Railway Station. From the station, follow the road North past the Beijing International Hotel. After about a ten minute walk look for the hostel sign with an arrow pointing down one of the hutongs on the left side. The hostel is very popular with backpackers. They charge 180 Yuan for a triple room, 160 Yuan for a double room and 40-50 Yuan for a bed in a dormitory (the price depends on how many beds are in the room). There's a restaurant on the top floor. The staff speaks some English.
  • Beijing Far East Youth Hostel Far East Youth Hostel, 90 Tie Shu Xie Jie, Xuan Wu District. Tel. 86-10-51958811. It's in a traditional Chinese courtyard, about 10 minutes walking from Tiananmen Square. The Far East Youth Hostel has become very famous after having been added to major travel guides. During summer time you should book one week in advance.
  • Leo's HostelLeo's Hostel is a good alternative to the Far East and is just around the corner. Leo's Hostel is in the same road as the Far East, has a free Playstation 2, Internet, Pool, lockers, maps, guides, magazines etc. It is well known for its friendly staff and lively bar atmosphere. It has a beautiful courtyard, with dorm rooms (45-70rmb) as well as private rooms (160-200rmb) Tel: (10) 63031595 or (10) 63033318.
  • Changgong Hotel is one of the cheapest places in the Qianmen Hutong. It has an traditional arichitecture and is just next door from Far East and Leo's. Don't try to find any of the narrow roads on the map. Navigation is only possible by asking or in a riksha. Dormbeds are 35, a triple room is 210. Tel: (10) 63015088 or (10) 63032665.
  • Eastern Morning Youth Hostel is a great budget option if price is your primary concern. The hostel is located in the basement of the Oriental Plaza shopping/office/residential complex next to Wangfujing. Private rooms cost about 90 RMB per night - book in advance. The staff does not speak much English but are friendly. Internet access is available at 10 RMB per hour. The hostel is located on Dongdan Santiao (which runs behind Oriental Plaza). It is a 5 minute walk to the Dongdan or Wangfujing subway stations and about a 15 minute walk to the International Hotel airport shuttle stop. Tel: (10) 65284347
  • Jing Yi Shi Hotel Jing Yi Shi Hotelis located between Leo hostel and Far East Y/H. The hotel is traditional siheyuan and has beautiful courtyard. The staff does not speak much English but are very friendly. There are two PCs available, Internet access costs 10 RMB per hour. Twin room costs 150, 180, 220 RMB. Tel: 86-10-63043822

[edit] Mid-range

A number of mid-range hotels are located east of the Dongzhimen subway station. From the subway stop, walk around 800m eastwards to the next big intersection. On the northern side of the street, half a dozen large hotels can be found. A double costs 150 to 250 Yuan a night depending on the season. Its worth haggling and comparing with the other hotels around before you book. Although its already placed at the outer ring road, the subway provides for a convenient and quick access to the inner city. Right next to the subway station there is a McDonalds, and - more interestingly - a large shopping center with a food court hidden in the lowest floor.

  • Kaifeng hotel, telephone 64651177, ranging between 180-320 Yuan per day per double.
  • Xinxing Hotel: Moderately priced. About $50 per night. Free Internet access, but you need to ask for a room with it (you should also ask in advance too). The staff are friendly, but their English is just acceptable. Mostly Chinese internal tourists and businessmen stay here. Chinese breakfast is served on Floor 2 in the morning until 9 a.m. There is a swimming pool in a separate building. Staff will clean your room twice per day. Hotel is a several block walk from the Gongzhufen subway station (Line 1) which is on the West side of town. Mind the traffic when crossing the street. Address: No.17 the 3rd Ring Road Middle West, Beijing. Telephone: 86-10-68166688
  • Bamboo Garden Hotel (Zhu Yuan Binguan), 86-10-640 322 29Bamboo Garden Hotel, a stone's throw from the lake district, it is one of the most interesting hotels in Beijing. It located in a large complex of courtyards, was residence of Sheng Xuanhuai, a Qing Mandarin, later residence of Kang Sheng, head of secret police of communist China.

[edit] Splurge

Some 'expensive' hotels are in the city centre and on the eastern 3rd Ring Road, however by western standards these hotels are very cheap. These include:

  • Grand Hyatt Beijing[5] Privately-owned, exquisite, and expensive. This is a 5 star hotel. Rooms can go for $150 per night. There is an enormous swimming pool in the basement that is decorated in very tropical manner, but the deepest part is only 1.5 meters. The jacuzzi and wet sauna are excellent, but the steam room is hot enough to cook a lobster. Great hotel and great location, if you can afford it.
  • Beijing Hotel[6] State-owned (and thus presumably less expensive). Located near the Forbidden City, there is a view of Tiananmen Square from the hotel.
  • Great Wall Sheraton Hotel[7] Less expensive, comfortable, with rotating restaurants. Located on the eastern 3rd Ring Road, it is only 45 minutes from the Beijing Capital Airport by taxi. Hard Rock Cafe Beijing is located between the Sheraton and the Kempinski hotels.
  • Kempinski Hotel[8] is near the Great Wall Sheraton. German-run and efficient, and a good choice for business travelers. The lobby and adjacent Friendship store contain some good shopping opportunities. There is a also supermarket in the basement with a variety of local and imported food, beverages and sundies.
  • China World Hotel Very nice hotel run by the Shangri-la hotel group. Has restaraunt, bar, club, swim pool and many other amenities. Many business travellers stay here.
  • Sino-Swiss Hotel [9] The Sino-Swiss Hotel is located very close to the airport, well away from downtown. It is presently the only major hotel in Beijing that allows pets. Features a very elaborate indoor and outdoor pool, as well as playground for the kids. Choose this hotel for its location if you must be close to the airport or if you have pets. Around US$120 per night.
  • The Peninsula Beijing [10] The Peninsula Beijing is located within walking distance from Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City, and is within easy access of Beijing Railway Station.

In the outlying areas, especially out by the Great Wall, are some country club type resorts as well as some unique, one-of-a-kind, hotels.

  • Commune by the Great Wall Kempinski Beijing[11] 11 villas designed by top Asian architects and design firms, all of which have butlers. Definately an Ultrasplurge!

[edit] Contact

[edit] Stay safe

Beijing is a very safe city. However, tourists are often preyed upon by cheats and touts. Be especially cautious in the inner city, around Tiananmen Square, and on the tourist-crowded routes to the Great Wall.

  • For tours to the Great Wall, be wary: the driver might just stop and set you off before your destination. Only pay afterwards if you are absolutely sure you are at the destination. Do not go for organized tours to the Great Wall in the 100-150 Yuan range that are advertised by people handing out flyers around the Forbidden City (or in the latest scam, masquerading as the real bus service to the Great Wall which only costs 20 Yuan, but is guaranteed to waste your entire day). Conveniently you are picked up from your hotel (so they know where to get back at you, in case you will not pay), you end up on a shopping tour through many many Chinese art, China, Chinese medicine, etc. shops and afterwards you have to pay upfront to get back to the city. Of course, there are exceptions, and people showing letters of recommendation from their previous travels and pictures are usually ok, as are people offering trips to the wilder parts of the Great Wall (ie. not Badaling or Juyong).
  • Do not follow any "students" wanting to show you something. They are most likely scammers or semi-scammers. Examples include "art students" who bring you to their "school exhibition" and pressure you to buy art at insanely inflated prices. Tea sampling is another scam. It is free to sample tea for locals, but for tourists...you should ask. In one incident, after sampling 5 types of tea with two "students", a group of tourists were confronted with a bill for 1260 Yuan! They even produced an English Menu with the extortionate prices for sampling. Young attractive female "students" also try to lure male tourists to shops, restaurants or night clubs. The prices at such places can be extremely high for basically nothing.
  • Take care when offered a ride in a rickshaw. Make sure you know where you are going to be taken in advance, and agree a price in writing. you may well end up dropped off in a deserted alleyway and extorted for a large amount - 600 Yuan or more.

Be wary of fake money. You may observe Chinese people inspecting their money carefully, and with a reason: there are a lot of counterfeit bills in circulation. The most common are 100's and 50's. A few tips for identifying counterfeit bills:

  • Be very careful if someone wants to give back the largest currency bill (50 and 100 Yuan) by the excuse of "no change". In an attempt to pass you a counterfeit bill they may tell you that they have lowered the price in your benefit. Or, they may ask you to contribute an additional sum in order to pass you the 100 Yuan. If they give you back all the change money plus the coins on top (though coins are rare in Beijing) take your time to check each bill carefully.
  • Another version of the above trick is when a vendor refuses to accept your 100 Yuan bill claiming that it's fake. The truth is most likely that he took your genuine bill and discretely changed it for a fake one which he now is trying to give back to you. Hard to prove unless you see the swap.
  • To check any 50 and 100 Yuan bill you get, do this: most importantly, check the paper. If its torn, thin or very slippery, ask for a different bill. Next, check the watermark, it should blur out softly. If there are hard visible corners in the watermark, reject the bill. Last, check the green "100" imprint on the lower left corner. It should be clearly painted on the bill so you can both feel and see a relief. If its missing or not feelable, reject the bill also. Rejecting bills is not considered impolite. If the colouring of a banknote is faded, it does not necessarily mean it is fake.

Driving is crazy in Beijing, and reckless driving is the norm. Be prepared for drivers to violate traffic laws even to the extent of going in reverse on highways to back up to a missed exit. Also expect occasional road debris (a piece of wood or torn out tire) to be laying in the roadway. Pedestrians should be very careful crossing the street — drivers will not stop for you and will anticipate the traffic light before it turns green. Be very careful when crossing any street. Take an overpass or underpass if possible. Otherwise, keep an eye on the locals and cross with them — there is strength in numbers. Cars will also often drive on sidewalks. Only pedestrians from North America will find driving crazy in Beijing. For the rest of the world's citizens it is par for the course.

Free emergency telephone numbers:

  • Police: 110
  • Fire alarm: 119
  • Medical care: 120

Remember these three telephone numbers, and they are valid in almost entire mainland China.

[edit] Cope

Air pollution is a BIG problem. Car exhaust, coal burning, and dust storms from the Gobi desert combine to make some of the worst city air on the planet. You may want to bring extra Vitamin C and other antioxidants (grape seed extract, etc.). A white surgical face mask may help with the occasional dust storms...the dust is very fine. Don't be surprised if your throat and nose ache soon after arriving.

Drinking lots of the local green tea (hot) will help you resist sickness from the bad air. Green tea has antioxidants, some vitamin C, and the hot water helps to moisturize your throat. Winter is the worst time...cold air creates an inversion layer and traps the pollution in the city.

Diet tips. Bring fiber supplements (such as Metamucil). Beijing food can be constipating due to high meat/low vegetable content. Chinese don't usually eat salads, but boil their vegetables for sanitary and cultural reasons. Also, an Acidophilus (yogurt bacteria) supplemental capsule taken daily can prevent G.I. distress from the local bacteria. Bring the type that don't have to be refrigerated, or drink the local yogurt beverages (which must be drunk on the spot as you have to return the glass jars immediately afterwards). The local bacteria can cause vomiting or diarrhea (or both) if you don't take precautions beforehand. Remember the 3 P's for food: Peeled, par-boiled, or piping-hot. The good news is that the Chinese preference for fresh food, cooked in a wok at searing hot temperatures means that stomach problems are rare. If you are eating "local" you tip the odds in your favor if you stick to traditional, local food, since the chances are that the chef will know what he/she is doing with this type of food, which is not necessarily the case with (eg) a western-style salad.

Bring a pack of your own tissues (or toilet paper) and small bar soap. Many public bathrooms do not have wiping paper, especially if you venture out to the countryside. Alternately, you may wish to purchase an alcohol-based hand santizer for quick clean-ups. Also, pre-packaged wet hand wipes are indispensable.

Try to use the bathroom before you leave for your destinations. Some establishments (even large grocery/department stores) will not have Western style toilets, and many a lady has been shocked and dismayed to find she doesn't know how to use non-elevated (sunken) toilets.

If you do have to use a squat toilet, you may want to remove your trousers or dress first to avoid accidentally defecating on your clothing. Wipe with tissues that you have brought with you and put them in the bin; do not flush the paper because it can clog the toilet. Some toilets are pay toilets.

In dryer months (especially winter), be sure to bring or purchase a heavy moisturizer. Although most hotels will offer some generic brand, the quality varies greatly and you would do well to supply your own. It is advisable to purchase and drink several bottles of purified water a day.

Most Internet news is not censored, but BBC News usually is. The New York Times is sometimes blocked too, Wikipedia is but not Wikitravel. CNN.com is not blocked and is never censored, so it is usually a recommended source for current affairs. Reuters.com is usually not blocked. Searching a news source for 'verboten' terms ("Free Tibet," "Falun Gong," etc.) generally results in no results and may block further searches of that news source for a short time. To access blocked website, use an anonymization tool like anonymouse.org to access.

E-mail access through an Internet based email service is very helpful to have. Examples (free) include Yahoo, Google, Hotmail, etc.

Postcard postage costs 4.5 yuan (as of May 7th, 2005).

Bring a corkscrew for opening your wine. Swiss Army knives are a big help too (but remember to put it in your checked luggage).

[edit] Get out

  • Great Wall (长城 Chángchéng) (about a 1.5 hour bus ride from the city, recommended (but be aware of bus scams!) Two or more sections near the city have been restored and are available for tourists to walk upon. One section even has a ski lift up and a toboggan (or ski lift) down. The Wall is on top of mountain chains. You may want to bring a jacket against the wind or cold in the chillier season - in the summer you will need lots of water, there are vendors on the wall. The Badaling section is the most famous, but also the most over-restored and crowded. Jin Shan Ling, Huang Shan and Si Ma Tai are more distant (several hours drive) but offer a better view of the wall in a less restored state with fewer crowds. Mutianyu is well restored, but far less crowded than Badaling. Crowds are a definite issue with the great wall. At popular sections at popular times, it is not the Great Wall of China, but rather the Great Wall of Tourists. It is possible to rent a taxi for a day to take you to these sites. Renting a taxi should cost 400~450 yuan. For this price the driver takes you whereever you want, and will wait for your return.
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