Bologna


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Bologna is a historical city, the main city in Emilia-Romagna (a region in northern Italy) famous for its cuisine (la cucina Bolognese), and for its architectural palette of reds, oranges, and yellows, hence the name of Bologna la rossa (Bologna the red), as well as its twentieth-century history as a communist stronghold in Italy. The city has grown more and more popular with tourists, who see it as an excellent destination for a one-day-stopover on their trip-route, especially between Venice and Florence. Bologna is not typically a tourist city, do not be surprised with the excessive graffiti, unclean streets, and difficulty in communication (as most people do not need to learn English). However, if one is looking for an authentic Italian experience in a working city, then Bologna is a wonderful option. The town centre is one of the best preserved throughout Europe, the Bolognese porticos are particularly interesting because of their history, and the city is home to the first university in the world.

Contents

[edit] Understand

[edit] When to visit

Bologna's at it best from March-April to October, when it's warm and people stay outside, sit in squares such as Piazza Santo Stefano and Piazza Maggiore. However, during July it is particularly hot. In August as with the much of Italy in the summer, many shops and restaurants are closed for the summer vacation. Winter can be bitterly cold and snow is common over Christmas.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

  • Bologna's closest airport is Guglielmo Marconi (Bologna) International Airport (IATA: BLQ) [1], just a few minutes from city centre, served by taxi and a special bus line called Aerobus. Aerobus Ticket costs 5 euro. Taxi from the airport to the center costs about 15 euro.
  • Ryanair [2] flies from Forlì, a moderately long taxi (80 Euro) and rail ride away from Bologna (Also, some buses run from the city bus terminal to the Airport, in connection with some flights).

[edit] By train

On account of its central location and geography, Bologna has emerged as the main rail transport hub of northern Italy, making it extremely well-connected with other major Italian centres. Considering Eurostar schedules (Italian high speed trains), it is just 1.46 hours from Milan, 1 hour from Florence, 2.45 from Rome, 2 hours from Venice, 1 hour from Ferrara, etc. A new high speed train line between Rome and Milan is under construction and in the near future will make many of these trip much faster.

[edit] By Car

The city is at the junction of the A1, A14 and A13 highways, and as such is easily accessible [to its outskirts] from anywhere in Italy. Most traffic from Milan would exit the A1 and take the Tangenziale, but beware this road at rush hour because it is horrendously packed. Expect to take 2 hours from the A1 exit to the Tangenziale to the centre at certain peak times over summer busy week ends, especially at the beginning and end of August.

[edit] Get around

[edit] Layout of the city

Looking at the map of the city, (it's possible to get a free one at the Tourist Information Centre in Piazza Maggiore), the first thing to do for orientating yourself is to find the Due Torri landmark, which stays in the centre of the free map. The centre of the city is surrounded by the Viali, a circular road easily recognizable. The northeast quadrant of the map is the university district (which unlike US campus is an integral part of the city and not a separate compound). The two southern quadrants of your city map are residential sections of the city, and it's not a common tourist-area. However, walking outside the city centre, further to the south, you will come upon hills. There is, as well, the Giardini Margherita, the largest park of the city.

[edit] See

[edit] Museums and Art Galleries

Museum Card (Carta Bologna dei Musei) – Bologna's museum card is available for either one or three days. The museum card is for free access to the city's main museums and discounts to some others. It is available at museums and tourist offices.

  • Museo Civico Archeologico (Archaeological Museum) - Via dell'Archiginnasio 2, Tel: +39 (0)51 233 849. In the building of an old hospital a comprehensive collection of antiquities. Examples from: Egyptian civilization –(mummies and sarcophagi,) Iron age Villanova culture, artifacts from Etruscan Velzna, funerary art, terracotta urns, ancient vases and items from Roman times. Don't miss the bronze Certosa jar which is over 1,500 years old open: Tuesday - Friday: 9 -15 Saturday - Sunday and holidays: 10 - 18,30 Closed on Monday. Full price ticket €4, discounts available.
  • Jewish Museum - via Valdonica 1/5 Tel. +39 051.2911280. Located in the area of the former ghetto. Museum hours: Sunday to Thursday 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, Friday 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM Tickets sold until 5:15 PM (3:15 PM Friday); Closed Saturdays and on Jewish holidays.
  • Gallery of Modern Art of Bologna - Piazza Costituzione, 3. Open 10:00-18:00 Tuesday–Sunday, closed on Mondays.
  • Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna (National Picture Gallery) - Via Belle Arti 56, Tel: +39 (0)51 421 1984. [3] Containing the cities's most important art. It offers an interesting panorama of the Emilian and Venetian painting from the XIII to the XVIII century. A must, the works by Giotto, Raffaello, Parmigianino (Madonna col Bambino/Virgin Mary with Baby and the Saints Margaret, Girolamo and Petronio), Perugino, Tiziano and Tintoretto (Visitazione/Visitation and Saints Joseph and Zacharias). Open: Tuesday to Sunday – 09:00 to 19:00 free for children under 18.
  • The University Museums – via Zamboni, There are a number of interesting, small museums at the University in the Palazzo Poggi. These include:
  1. The Museo Navale (Naval Museum) – 18th-century model warships (some very large) and collections of early maps 8.30-17.30 - closed Sat. and Sun. Admission free;
  2. The Museum of Military Architechture – models of Bologna's fortifications Mon. to Fri. 8.30-17.30 - closed Sat. and Sun. Admission free;
  3. Museo Ostetrico (Obstetric Museum)
  4. The Museo Aldovrandi – the collections of the Renaissance naturalist Ulisse Aldovrandi;
  5. Museo della Specola. Occupies the Specola, the astronomical tower built in the beginning of XVIII-century over Palazzo Poggi. The material exposed illustrates the evolution of the astronomic instrumentation through the centuries. Tours begins at the following hours for groups of 15 people maximum. June 24 till July 31 and from August 22 till September 18 from Monday to Sunday: 10:00; 11:30; 14:00 closed August 1 to 21; Sep.19-Dec.31 from Monday to Sunday: 10:00; 11:30; 14:30; 16:00. Free admission;
  • Museo di Antropologia – Via Selme 3, B . Bones, and artifacts of prehistoric Italians. Open: Monday to Friday – 09:00 to 13:00. Closed: Saturday, Sunday and completely in July and August free admission.
  • Museo di Mineralogia – Piazza di Porta San Donato. Rocks, precious stones, rare minerals and meteorites. Open: Monday to Saturday – 09:00 to 13:00 Closed: Sunday
  • Museo di Anatomia Patologica – Via Massarenti. Studies of human and animal deformities. Open: Monday to Friday 09:00 to 17:00, Saturday 09:00 to 13:00. Closed: Sunday. Free admission.
  • Museum of Giorgio Morandi - Piazza Maggiore 6 (in the city hall). Tuesday to Friday, 09.00 - 15.00, Saturday and Sunday 10,00 - 18,30. Full price entrance €4, discounts available. Inaugurated in 1993, the museum houses most of the works by the Bolognese painter Giorgio Morandi.
  • Collezioni Comunali d'Arte (Communal Collection of Fine Arts) - Piazza Maggiore 6 (In the city hall) Tel. 051-2193631/2193526. Tusdays-Fridays 9-15 Saturday, Sunday, and holidays 10-18,30. Closed mondays. The painting collection offers works belonging to various historical periods. Special attention should be given to the paintings by Giuseppe Maria Crespi (Ritratto del cardinale Lambertini- Portrait of Cardinal Lambertini), Ludovico Carracci (S. Caterina in Carcere – S. Catherine in Prison), Guido Cagnacci (Cleopatra e Lucrezia), Francesco Hayez (Ruth).
  • [4] Museo Internazionale e Biblioteca della Musica di Bologna Strada Maggiore, 34 - Palazzo Aldini Sanguinetti Tel. 051/2757711 - 051/221117. From Jan 1 to May 31: Tues-Sun 10am-5pm; From June 1 to July 14: Tues-Thurs 10am-1:30pm, Friday-Sun 10am-5pm; From July 15 to September 15: CLOSED; From Sept 16 to Dec 31: Tues-Thurs 10am-1:30pm, Friday-Sun 10am-5pm; CLOSED Mondays, Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25.
  • Accademia Filarmonica {Philharmonic Academy) via Guerrazzi 13, 40125 Bologne, tel: 051/222997 fax: 051224104 [5] The Philarmonic Academy of Bologne was established in 1666. Since then it has become a reference point for the city musical life and its fame has spread throughout Europe. Here are preserved the works of many illustrious students, including Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart’s (1770) and autographed documents by Puccini, Verdi and Beethoven.
  • Modern Art Gallery «Raccolta Lercaro» via Riva di Reno 57 40122 Bologne, tel: 051/472078 fax: 051/476802 [6] Opening/Closing Time: Wednesday-Saturday 4.00 a.m.-7.00 p.m.; Sunday 10.00 a.m.-1.00 p.m., 4.00 p.m.-7.00 p.m. It houses about 2000 works by Italian and foreign artists with special attention to the sculptures by Manzù, Messina, Rodin and Giacometti.
  • Ducati Museum via Cavalieri Ducati 40132 Bologne, tel: 051/6413111 [7] Opening/Closing Time: Monday-Friday guided tours at 11.00 a.m. and 4.00 p.m.; Saturday 9.00 a.m.-1.00 p.m.. Closed during Easter and Christmas holidays and in August. It represents the evolution of the Bolognese motorcycle firm. An exposition of motorcycles, period materials, projects, mechanical components, pictures and videos.


Other Museums in Bologna

  • Museo Civico Medievale Via Manzoni
  • Museo Di Fisica Via Irnerio;
  • Pinacoteca Nazionale Via Belle Arti;
  • Museo Dello Studio dell'Ottavo;
  • Museo Degli Studenti E Della Goliardia Via Zamboni;
  • Museo Marsili Via Zamboni;
  • Museo Indiano Via Zamboni;
  • Collezione Cospi Via Zamboni;
  • Museo Delle Cere Anatomiche Via Zamboni;
  • Museo Delle Navi;

[edit] Sightseeing

Guided bus tours and walking tours are available in Bologna.

  • Piazza Maggiore Large pedestrian square located in the monumental center of the old part of the city and it is surrounded by the Basilica of San Petronio, the City Hall Building, the portico dei Banchi and the Palazzo del Podestà.
  • Via Rizzoli One of the main streets of Bologne. It is a meeting point and strolling area. It opens up to Piazza di porta Ravegnana where the two towers rise.
  • Fontana di Nettuno (Fountain of Neptune) - Piazza del Nettuno. A fountain built in 1563 by Tommaso Laureti of Palermo later embellished by Jean de Boulogne (called Giambologna). It is considered one of Bologne’s symbols.
  • Corte de' Galluzzi It can be accessed through a vault from Piazza Galvani, in front of the Archiginnasio. An area with strong Medieval tones.
  • University Quarter - Via Zamboni. Full of bars and cafés. The University of Bologna is the world's oldest university founded over 900 years ago.

[edit] Landmarks

  • Torre degli Asinelli (Tower of the Asinelli) and Torre dei Garisenda (Tower of the Garisenda) - Piazza di Porta Ravegnana. Main symbols of Bologna. Torre degli Asinelli (built between 1109 and 1119) is 97.20 metres tall (330 feet), with 498 steps and an incline of 1.3 meters (4 feet). Torre dei Garisenda (closed to the public)is 47 m (162 feet) tall and has a lean of over 3m (10 feet). Both were built in the 12th century. Open: daily, 09:00 to 18:00 €3 to climb Torre degli Asinelli.
  • Palazzo Comunale - Piazza Maggiore 6, Tel: (0)51 203 111. Bologna's city hall, with a very rich collection of Renaissance paintings, sculptures and antique furniture, is a 14th-century palazzo. Don't miss its enormous main staircase, which was designed to be used by horse drawn carriages. Tuesday to Sunday - 10:00 to 18:00 children under 14 get free admission.
  • Tombe dei Glossatori (The Glossatori tombs) Piazza San Domenico e Piazza Malpighi. Named for the lawyers who used to add glosses (aka: notes) to documents. The tombs, which date from the end of the 13th century, are home to many Bologna's famous scholars.
  • Basilica di San Luca (St. Luke's Basilica) Located on the Colle della Guardia (Guardia hill). Built in mid-18th century, offers a panoramic view of the City, and can be reached by walking along the 666 archs of its unique portico. It has a peculiar layout, being of round shape. A widely city-know icon, the Madonna di San Luca, is held there.
  • I Portici (The Arcades) Visitors can walk under the typical arcades of Bologne for a total of 38 km. This kind of construction dates back to ancient Eastern civilizations.
  • Basilica of San Petronio Piazza Maggiore Bologne, tel: 051/231415 Opening/Closing Time: Weekdays 9.30 a.m.-12.30, 2.30 p.m.-5.30 p.m.; Holidays 2.30 p.m.-5.00 p.m. The Basilica houses an invaluable number of treasures such as the sundial by Cassini and Guglielmini, which indicates the exact period of the current year at all times, the "S. Rocco" by Parmigianino and the marvellous Bolognini Chapel. From the left nave of the basilica, the visitor can gain access to the Museum where many bas-reliefs are collected.
  • Basilica of San Dominico 13 Piazza di San Dominico, tel: +39 051 6400411 Open: daily, 07:30 to 13:00, 15:30-19:30
  • Santa Maria della Vita 10 Via Clavature tel: +39 051 236245 Open: Mon-Sat, 07:30-19:30, Sun, 16:30-19:00

[edit] Parks and Gardens

Many parks were former private gardens of nobility.

  • Giardini Margherita (Margherita Gardens) - Viale Gozzadini. Bologna's main park created in 1875. The chalet converts to a nightclub in the summer evenings. Open: daily 06:00 to midnight.
  • Parco Montagnola - Piazza VIII Agosto. Public park since the 17th century. Much of the current landscaping comes from the early 19th century. The pond in the centre of the park was added in 1888. Open: daily 07:00 to midnight.
  • Orto Botanico (Botanical Gardens) - Via Irnerio, 42 Tel: (0)51351280. Created in the mid-16th century for medicinal herbs. Currently the second largest park in the city the Botanical gardens are home to over 5,000 plant species. Some of the highlights include a full-grown sequoia, and a greenhouse for cacti and canvivourous plants. Open: Monday to Friday - 08:30 to 15:00, Saturday 08:00 to 13:00.
  • Villa delle Rose - Via Saragozza, 228/230 Tel: (0)51 436 818. Donated to the city in 1916 the gardens were originally owned by the Cella family. The 18th-century Villa delle Rose, which was the Cella's residence, hosts art exhibitions throughout the year. Open: Tuesday to Sunday 15:00 to 19:00.
  • Villa Guastavillani - Via degli Scalini, 18 Tel: 051 239 660. Designed and built by Tomasso Martelli in the 16th century. Open: Monday to Saturday - 08:00 to 14:00.
  • Villa Spada - Via Casaglia, 1 Tel: 051 614 5512. On the grounds of the Palazzo Ravone an 18th century villa, it was opened to the public in 1970. Open: April to September - Tuesday to Sunday 07:30 to 22:00; October to March - Tuesday to Sunday 07:30 to 18:00.
  • Parco Cavaioni - Via di Casaglia. A large park featuring meadows, fields, wooded areas, and a lake. Open: April to September - 06:00 to midnight, October to March - 07:00 to 18:00.
  • Certosa - Via della Certosa, 18, Tel: (0)514 12606. City's main cemetery with beautifully carved tombstones, built over the ruins of an ancient Etrusan necropolis. Open: daily 07:00 to 18:00.

[edit] Do

  • Via Mascarella, in the northeast area of the city, has nightspots, among them two jazz clubs;
  • There's a great film festival with restored silent and sound films throughout July in Piazza Maggiore. In the past, these have included foreign film (especially Italian and French), animation shorts from Annecy, archive footage of Bologna (e.g. of its liberation by British and American troops) and modern classics such as The Third Man, Raging Bull, Apocalypse Now and The Pianist;
  • Many bars and pubs host music contests and concerts, from rock to jazz to "liscio", the traditional folk songs of Emilia-Romagna.
  • Bologna is an Italian hub for rock, electronic and alternative music. There are almost a hundred concerts every year by international bands. Unfortunately many of these locations have moved outside the city centre. The main places where to look are:
  • The "Estragon", in Parco Nord, a big ex-industrial hangar, features dj-sets and concerts by international rock bands almost every night.
  • The "Link", recently moved outside the city, is a large, 2-floor club that features mostly avantgarde electronic, techno and hip-hop gigs and dj-sets. A little book shop, mainly on "alternative" subjects, can be found inside.
  • The "XM24" is an occupied ex-agricultural market located in Via Fioravanti 24. Punk-hc, rock and electronic concerts are often featured. A good and very cheap place, if you don't mind the punk atmosphere.
  • The "Livello 57", just under the bridge of Via Stalingrado is now only seldomly opened, and it mainly features raves and techno gigs in an industrial, darkish atmosphere.
  • The "TPO", in Viale Lenin, is another occupied location that mostly features experimental music festivals and rock concerts.
  • The "Kindergarten", in Via Calzoni, next to the "Fiera", is a recently opened club that features punk and new wave concerts.
  • Il Covo: rock club

[edit] Buy

The key to shopping in Italy is to look in every little shop as you walk around, paying attention to price tags. Please take note that the hours listed usually specify a closure in the afternoons. There is no one place to get the perfect pair of shoes or the perfect ties or the perfect anything: you have to look all over, but this is half the fun. If you can't find what you want at the price you want to pay for it, keep looking, chances are you will find something somewhere else that will work perfectly.

[edit] Eat

There are many choices for where to eat, as Bologna is generally considered to be the gastronomic centre of Italy. It is difficult to find a truly poor meal as the Bolognese, like most Italians, use fabulous quality local produce with sparkling ingenuity.

  • Tamburinis delicatessen in Via Camparie is one of the world's great delis specialising in pasta, cheese and ham and serves lunchtime food cafeteria style at very affordable prices.
  • Via del Pratello has lots of bars and restaurants/osterie. There's lots to choose from here. Walk past, look at the menus. It is located towards the middle of the 'western' part of the map. Via Mascarella/Largo Respighi is another zone with a lot of Osterie.
  • The "Diana" on Via Indipendenza is probably the most famous restaurant in the city (quite expensive but not the worst one). Foreign tourists - the Japanese, and businessmen, primarily - come here.
  • "Il Pappagallo" ("The Parrot"), found at the top of the street leading into Piazza Santo Stefano was a famous haunt of the stars during the '60s and '70s and still attracts an exclusive clientele. Its mix of traditional Bolognese fare and nouvelle cuisine gives the "Diana" a run for its money.
  • The really good ice cream can be had at "Gianni's", a traditional Italian gelateria found near Via Ugo Bassi and the top of Piazza Santo Stefano. In 2006 a third gelateria opened at the corner of Via San Vitale and Via Zamboni, just under the Asinelli Tower.
  • Another ice cream must-try is "Il Gelatauro", in Via San Vitale. It has many unique ice cream flavours, mostly of Sicilian origin, and it is considered one of the best gelateria of Italy.
  • If you are just hungry and really out of money, next to Il Gelatauro is the chinese take-away "La Fenice". Don't be appalled by the really unimpressive appearance: the food is quite good (although stereotypical in its genre) and the portions are as big as they are cheap. With 1.50 Euros you can buy a cantonese rice portion able to fill up two persons.
  • Via San Vitale also features "L'Antica Bologna", a chic but good and not particularly expensive bar and patisserie. Good Italian coffee is served too.
  • "L'antica Trattoria Spiga" on Via Broccaindosso is a bit hard to find, but has the best risotto in Bologna and wonderful traditional cucina Bolognese. And as with most places in Bologna, be prepared to know a little Italian.
  • "Osaka", in Via Calori next to Piazza Azzarita is a Japanese restaurant. Not exceptional in its genre, but allows for take-away sushi and it is relatively unexpensive. A slightly more expensive but finer alternative is "Haiku", in Via Stalingrado corner with Via Serlio (20 minutes by walk from the train station).

[edit] Drink

Consider visiting the many pubs and clubs of Via Zamboni (university zone); some, such as "The Irish Pub", popular with students and foreigners, give happy hours on Tuesday/Wednesday. "Al Piccolo" down the road in Piazza Verdi is another famous student haunt, a live DJ playing techno into the early mornings.

Otherwise, the Via Pratello has many bars and is the centre of the city's alternative scene. Worth a look in particular is "Mutanye" whose owner is reputed to have been part of the Red Brigade in his youth, hence the many soviet posters...

For a good enoteca (winery), "Ai Vini Scelti" just outside the centre in Via Andrea Costa and only a few moments from Via Pratello, is considered one of the best in Bologna, though there are many others in the centre, providing everything from a quick aperitivo to proper wine-tasting.

A very plesant outdoor trattoria and wine bar on Piazza San Martino called "Golem" has a relaxed, modern italian atmosphere and is great for people watching. Reasonable prices, excellent wines, and a small appetizer bar make it ideal for a long evening of good drink with friends or family. Also, the gnocchi with crab sauce is superb, although you might want to order it without eyeballs.

[edit] Sleep

[edit] Budget

  • Hotel Fiera, Via Stalingrado 82, 40128, Bologna. [8], A very nice hotel in the Merchant district with clean rooms and wonderful bathrooms. If you are lucky enough to get a room with a balcony, you will be rewarded with an outstanding view of the Appenines in the distance. Friendly staff, and a very nice little restaurant. Breakfast here was outstanding. If you want a place on the outskirts from which to plan your stay, you could do much worse. Doubles from €55, singles from €45. All rooms have a minibar at very reasonable prices (€2.60 for anything as of June 2006). One of the cleanest rooms I saw in Italy. However, it is a significant distance from the centre and so public transport is a must.

[edit] Mid-range

  • <sleep name="San Lorenzo Apartments" checkin="it’s a nice alternative to the Hotels. Situated near Bologna, your accomodation is surrounded by a private park with swimming pool. It’s ideal after busy and noisy Bologna, reach this apartments and enjoy its silence and quiet.The apartments are large, for 4 person. In the court it’s avaible a barbecue. The apartments are clean and discreet. It’s necessary to have a car to reach the accomodation. Price range from € 50 to € 120 per apartment per day. Minimum stay 6 days" email="intercoop@hannil.com"></sleep>

[edit] Splurge

  • <sleep name="Grand Hotel Baglioni" address="8 Via Indipendenza, 40121 Bologna" phone="+39 051 225445" fax="+39 051 234840" checkout="offering elegance, tradition and prestige together with a warm welcome" price="doubles from € 565" url="http://www.baglionihotels.com/pages/eng_hp_bologna.jsp"></sleep>
  • Grand Hotel Elite Via Aurelio Saffi, 36, 40131 Bologna, Tel. +39.051.6459011 Fax +39.051.6492570, [9], Elegance united with services and comforts: located in the center, 10 minutes from the Exhibition Center, 5 minutes from the station and airport. This 4 star hotel in Bologna manages to satisfy all its guests' needs with a vast range of proposals varying in quality and service, and a total of 142 Suites and 35 Classic and Prestige Rooms.
  • Alloro Suite Hotel Via Ferrarese, 161, 40128 Bologna, Tel. +39.051.372960 Fax +39.051.372127, [10] The Hotel Alloro is a different hotel concept where silence, a warm welcome and naturalness transform it into a special island within the city. At the Hotel Alloro you will find comfort, courtesy and tranquility as well as efficiency and practicality.


  • Hotels can become shockingly expensive and city quite packed over the days in which fairs are hosted in the local Fiera District (especially beware of Saie and Cersaie). You can check the calendar on Fiera di Bologna web site [11].

[edit] Get out

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