Caracas
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Caracas is located in northern Venezuela, near the Caribbean. It is Venezuela's capital, largest city, and the location of its major international airport.
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[edit] Understand
Caracas, often described as a concrete jungle, is far from being a tourists' paradise. It is congested, noisy, polluted, dirty and shockingly dangerous. Walking the streets aimlessly is risky even in day light. However, as the capital of Venezuela it is the key to understanding the country: the city displays staggering inequalities of wealth but is bound together by the warmth and happiness of its inhabitants, their love of the beach and partying, and the soothing presence of Mount Avila.
[edit] Climate
Caracas has a tropical climate with very little variation between summer and winter temperatures. Set in a valley some 900 meters above sea level, its climate is often described as its best feature: never cold, seldom too hot. Average daily temperature in summer range from a minimum of 18°C (64F) to a maximum of 28°C (82F). Winter temperatures are only two to three degrees cooler. Most rainfall occurs during the period from May to November and may be accompanied by electrical storms.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By plane
Maiquetía's Simón Bolívar Airport is 16 km away from central Caracas, but the collapse of a bridge on the highway connecting Caracas with the airport in March 2006 means that the journey may take up to three hours during rush hour. A new bridge replacing the collapsed one is currently under construction and should be finished by mid-2007.
Taxi fares are usually at least Bs. 60,000 (US$28) to Caracas but there are many unlicensed taxis offering their services, so travelers should be very careful. In particular, it is advised to agree on a price before getting into the taxi, not sharing with anyone other than the driver, and preferably using only the airport's official black Ford Explorer cabs, although these can be pricey. Check with your hotel to see if they arrange airport pickup - it may need to be booked in advance.
[edit] By car
Fairly decent highways connect Caracas with La Guaira and the airport to the north; Maracay, Valencia and Maracaibo in the west; Barcelona and Puerto La Cruz in the east. However, the bridge collapse on the highway to La Guaira and Maiquetía has caused lengthy delays on this route (see above).
[edit] By bus
A taxi from the bus terminal to the center will cost you around Bs.15,000.
Buses from the airport to Caracas cost around $5. Passengers have the option of alighting either at Gato Negro metro station (less than safe at street level) or under a bridge at the Parque Central bus terminal, from where you'll need to get a taxi to your final destination or walk about 1 km along a busy road to the Bellas Artes metro station.
The La Bandera bus terminal connects Caracas with towns and cities to the west of the capital such as La Victoria (1 hour), Maracay (1.5 hours) and Valencia (2.5 hours). The 800m walk from La Bandera metro station to the bus terminal is not safe after dark and travelers should exercise caution at all times.
[edit] Get around
Taxis can be easily hailed in the street and are generally - but not always - safe. They have no meters so prices should be agreed on before getting in. Caracas traffic is notoriously bad and the metro is usually a better option.
The Caracas metro is clean, modern, safe and extremely cheap. A single journey costs just Bs.500, "ida y vuelta" (return ticket) is Bs.900 and a 10 journey "multi abono" ticket is Bs.4500. Because prices have changed little in recent years yet bus fares have outpaced inflation, the metro is frequently overcrowded, particularly during peak hours.
The metro system is backed up by a network of metrobuses that depart from certain metro stations and take fixed routes to areas of the city not reached by the underground. Like the metro, the metrobuses are cheap and clean, but passengers complain of bus shortages. Most services run only about every 20 minutes. The buses have fixed stops and will not pick up passengers away from these.
The ubiquitous minibuses, or por puestos, run along many main roads in Caracas, often ending up in obscure residential neighborhoods not reached by the metro. They can be flagged down anywhere and you can usually ask the driver to let you jump off whenever he stops, such as at traffic lights. Although sometimes useful - such as for reaching the Sabas Nieves entrance to El Avila from Altamira metro station - the buses are more expensive than the metro (Bs.1000 a ride), slower and are invariably in a very bad condition.
[edit] See
Despite not featuring on many tourists' itineraries, Caracas has more than enough sights and attractions to fill three or four days.
- <see name="La Plaza Bolivar" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">in the city center. Statues of Simon Bolivar, close to the congress and other government buildings. Nice colonial architecture. Metro Capitolio.</see>
- <see name="La Casa Natal de Simon Bolivar" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">Bolivar's birthplace, also downtown. One of the few well-preserved colonial buildings with some great paintings and a museum. Next door is the Museo Bolivariano with some of Bolivar's war relics. Metro La Hoyada.</see>
- <see name="Museo de Arte Colonial" address="Located in the Quinta Anauco on Av Panteon in San Bernardino" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">this is a lovely old house and garden that hosts small concerts some weekends.</see>
- <see name="Universidad Central de Venezuela" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">was designated a World Heritage Site by the UN in 2000. Designed by Venezuela's most famous architect, Carlos Raul Villanueva, the university campus, known as the Ciudad Universitaria is a sprawling complex considered a masterpiece of 1950s and 1960s architecture blended in with art. A stroll around the grounds, keeping an eye open for moden art works by artists such as Fernand Leger. Metro Ciudad Universitaria.</see>
- <see name="Jardin Botanico" address="located next to the Central University" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">is a well-kept garden with an impressive array of tropical plants and trees. Metro Ciudad Universitaria or Plaza Venezuela.</see>
[edit] Do
- The Avila mountain to the north of Caracas is highly recommended for hiking, views of Caracas, and its fresh air. The Sabas Nieves entrance, accessible by bus from Altamira, is the most popular.
- The Teleférico is a cable-car that takes visitors up the Avila. The ascent provides a beautiful view of the city. At the top (altitude approximately 2600 m), one can obtain a view of Caracas to the south, and of the ocean (Caribbean Sea) to the north on a clear day. It will cost Bs. 30,000 (US$ 15) to take the teleférico up (and back down). Reduced fares are available for students, children, and senior citizens (approximately Bs. 20,000). Take the ride up to Avila as early as possible, before an afternoon haze obstructs your view from the top of the mountain. There are a few restaurants, many food kiosks, and numerous attractions suitable for children. These include a small skating rink, some small rides, and jungle-gyms. There is a well known fondue restaurant also located at the top. Some hiking trails branch off from the teleférico station, but without a map it is not easy to find them or know where they go, as they are not marked.
[edit] Buy
- Centro Comercial Sambil - South America's largest shopping mall, with two movie theaters, dozens of restaurants and probably hundreds of shops. Metro Chacao.
- Altamira - An exclusive neighborhood and shopping district in the eastern part of the city. Can be accessed easily by metro.
- <listing name="Centro Comercial San Ignacio" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">Many boutique stores here, as well as lots of good bars and restaurants. A hub of Caracas nightlife.</listing>
- <listing name="Centro Comercial El Recreo" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">Another large mall, located next door to the Gran Meliá Hotel. Metro Sabana Grande.</listing>
- <listing name="Centro Ciudad Comercial Tamanaco (CCCT)" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">An old but popular complex of shops, offices, restaurants and a couple of nightclubs. Take a Metrobus from the Altamira metro station.</listing>
- <listing name="Centro Comercial El Tolón" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">An upmarket mall in the Las Mercedes neighborhood. 15 minutes walking from Chacaito metro.</listing>
- <listing name="Centro Comercial Paseo Las Mercedes" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">A bit old fashioned but a good art house cinema and Oscar D'Leon's Mazukamba nightclub is here.
</listing>
[edit] Eat
[edit] Las Mercedes
- El Granjero del Este, Av. Río de Janeiro +58 212 991 6619. One of the better of the dozens of "areperas" dotted around town. Specializes in arepas, a savory corn-flour bread that doubles as Venezuela's traditional staple food. Pick from a dozen types of filling (including the classic Reina Pepiada - chicken, avocado, spring onions and mayo.) Or try a cachapa (a sweet corn pancake with a choice of fillings) or a nice steak with yuca. Wash it all down with beer, or with freshly made tropical juice. To do it the traditional way, go at 3 a.m., after a night out dancing.
- <eat name="Malabar" address="Calle Orinoco" phone="+58 212 991-3131" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">Expensive but very good cuisine, mostly French, with a relaxed but trendy atmosphere.</eat>
- <eat name="Aranjuez" address="Calle Madrid, Qunita Anacoa" phone="+58 212 993-1326" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">One of the older steak houses in Caracas, with top quality Argentine and Venezuelan cuts of beef.</eat>
- <eat name="Cafe Ole" address="Calle California at Calle Jalisco" phone="+58 212 993-9059" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">This open air candlelight cafe is a popular haunt for after dinner cafe and some excellent desserts.</eat>
- <eat name="Mamma Mia" address="Avenida Principal" phone="+58 212 993-7230" email=anus_face@yomama.com"" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">A perennially popular though noisy restaurant with a good selection of Italian dishes.</eat>
[edit] La Castellana
- <eat name="Avila Tei" address="Avenida San Felipe, Centro Coinasa" phone="+58 212 263-1520" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">Excellent, if costly, Japanese restaurant.</eat>
- <eat name="Chez Wong" address="Plaza La Castellana" directions="facing the roundabout" phone="+58 212 266-5015" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">Very good Chinese restaurant.</eat>
- <eat name="Chili's" address="Calle Jose A Lamas, Torre La Castellana" phone="+58 212 267-9146" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">A branch of the American Tex-Mex chain.</eat>
- <eat name="La Estancia" address="Avenida Principal La Castellana" phone="+58 212 261-1874" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">A famous beef/meat restaurant with traditional Spanish decor.
</eat>
- <eat name="La Romanina" address="Av Avila" directions="between Calle Miranda and Av Mohedano, just west of Plaza La Castellana" phone="+58 212 266-8819" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">A simple setting but very good thin crust pizzas.</eat>
- <eat name="New Spizzico" address="Av Principal La Castellana" directions="one block north of the Plaza" phone="+58 212 267-8820" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">Very pleasant Mediterranean style decor with a lovely outdoor terrace. Good mostly Italian food but not with very generous portions.
</eat>
[edit] Altamira
- <eat name="El Tarantín de Valentina" address="Tercera transversal entre Segunda Avenida y Andrés Bello, Los Palos Grandes." phone="+58 212 2858839" email="" fax="" hours="Tue-Fri: Noon - 10 pm, Weekends: 9 am - 5 pm" price="" url="http://www.valentinaquintero.com.ve/index.asp?spg_id=9"> An excellent choice if you want to sample traditional Venezuelan food served with style and meticulous hygiene. Offers regional specialties from all over the country. The owner, Valentina Quintero, is the author of the most popular tourist guide about Venezuela for Venezuelans and something of a local celebrity.</eat>
- <eat name="Cafe-Trattoria Mediterraneo" address="1ra Avenida Los Palos Grandes, Edificio Oriental" phone="+58 212 283-3680" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">Great retro decor, and a minimal but excellent menu. Recommended.</eat>
[edit] La Candelaria
- <eat name="Bar Basque" address="Alcabala a Peligro, La Candelaria" phone="+58 212 572 4857" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">Caracas has a large Basque immigrant community and many excellent Basque restaurants. Bar Basque is the pick of the litter. Run by the same family for half a century, it's a legendary hangout for the politically connected. As in all Basque restaurants, the menu focuses on seafood. Superlative food. Expensive. Only a few tables, reservations required.
[edit] Drink
- La Belle Epóque. Located in Bello Monte, this is the best club value and experience in the city. Great prices with great bar tenders (one speaks English). Great mix of well to do caraqueños and tourists. Three parties for the price of one: techno, American rock, reggae. Live music Thurs-Sat. One room has old black and white movies playing on a projector to reggae music. Another pure techno (no beer in here, just drinks, especially Red Bull and Vodka). The last is the live band playing American rock--and they're great. This club is a must do in Caracas. Note: Unfortunately this club has closed its doors in 2006 due to the end of their lease. The owners are planning to put up another club, in the meantime check out the "Moulin Rouge" in the city center.
- El León. On the corner of La Castellana roundabout, this Caracas stalwart benefits from one of the best open air terraces in Caracas. Plastic tables and chairs are simple and the service is slow, but the beers are cheap and the atmosphere is good.
- Whiskey Bar. Located in Commercial Center San Ignacio. Very similar layout to a typical East Coast lounge in the United States. Popular hang-out for professionals. The coldness you experience here from people are not representative of the Venezuelan people.
- El Maní Es Así. Located in a side street behind Sabana Grande, this remains Caracas' best-renowned salsa club where locals and foreigners like to show off their moves, accompanied by live bands, till the early hours. To get a table, you'll probably have to pay 'servicio', i.e. agree to buy a bottle of rum or whisky. Sadly, the area around the club is not safe after dark and visitors should arrange taxis to avoid walking in the area.
[edit] Sleep
Caracas has many hotels but no youth hostels as one might expect to find in other South American countries. Backpackers will find that Caracas is not a cheap destination, and that rooms per night per person range 20-30 USD. While the whole of the city is considered to be dangerous at night, stick to the hotels in the east, that is, Sabana Grande or farther east.
Many (but by no means all) hotels in the Sabana Grande area will offer rooms on an hourly basis, primarily for unmarried Venezuelan couples.
[edit] Budget
Most hotels are in Sabana Grande. Do not stay in hotels west of the historic city center. While Sabana Grande has affordable hotel rates, you need to take great care at night. Sabana Grande is not as safe as it used to be, especially the Boulevard. Neighborhoods further east such as Altamira and Las Mercedes offer much safer accommodations but at increased cost.
- <sleep name="Hotel Altamira" address="Av Jose Felix Sosa, Altamira Sur (near Britanica Tower)" phone="+58 (212) 267-4284, 267-4255" email="hotelaltamira@telcel.net.ve" fax="(58-212) 267-1926" checkin="" checkout="" price="Around $30" url=""></sleep>
[edit] Mid-range
- <sleep name="Hotel Milenio" address="" directions="located between the Ciudad Universitaria metro and the Sabana Grande metro" phone="" email="" fax="" checkin="" checkout="" price="" url=""></sleep>
- <sleep name="El Cid" address="" phone="+ 58 212 263-1715" email="" fax="" checkin="" checkout="" price="Bs.180,000-200,000 ($83-93)" url="">This residential hotel also caters for short visits. Excellently located in the La Castellana district, it offers a pleasant alternative to many hotels with antique wooden furniture in the rooms and a guest house feel.</sleep>
- <sleep name="Hotel Shelter Suites" address="Av Libertador and Av Jose Felix Sosa, Chacao" directions="opposite Sambil shopping mall" phone="+58 212 265-3860" email="hotelshelter@cantv.net" fax="" checkin="" checkout="" price="Rooms from Bs.190,000" url="">Great location, clean and modern, this is a popular option and should be booked two weeks in advance. Max 2 people per room.</sleep>
- <sleep name="Hotel Savoy" address="" directions="near the Alliance Francaise" phone="" email="" fax="" checkin="" checkout="" price="From Bs.135,000" url=""></sleep>
[edit] Splurge
- <sleep name="Gran Meliá" address="Av. Casanova, esq. C/ El Recreo, Sabana Grande 1050" phone="+58 212 762-8111" tollfree="+1 800 745-8883" email="" fax="+58 212 762-3737" checkin="" checkout="" price="" url="http://www.lhw.com/property.aspx?propertyid=390">Elegant 5 star hotel. Located in Sabana Grande, the old heart of the city’s business and financial district, but now somewhat rundown and home to hundreds of street sellers.</sleep>
- <sleep name="Caracas Hilton" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" checkin="" checkout="" price="" url="http://www.caracas.hilton.com">Like the Melia, this once impressive hotel has suffered from the deterioration of central Caracas. Although close to the city's best museums, the Bellas Artes area is no longer the capital's finest and should not be wandered at night.</sleep>
- <sleep name="Marriot" address="Av. Venezuela con Calle Mohedano, El Rosal" phone="+58 212 957-2222" tollfree="+0 800 100-6139" email="" fax="+58 212 957 1111" checkin="" checkout="" price="" url="http://marriott.com/property/propertypage/CCSJW">In the center of the business district, this hotel has become deservedly popular in recent years, although its relatively small size means it is often fully booked.</sleep>
- <sleep name="Hotel Intercontinental Tamanaco" address="Final Av. Principal De Las Mercedes" phone="+58 212 909-7111" email="" fax="+58 212 909-7116" checkin="3PM" checkout="12PM" price="" url="http://www.ichotelsgroup.com/h/d/ic/1/en/hotel/ccsha?_requestid=553234"></sleep>
- <sleep name="Embassy Suites" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" checkin="" checkout="" price="" url=""></sleep>
- <sleep name="Radisson Eurobuilding" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" checkin="" checkout="" price="" url=""></sleep>
[edit] Contact
- Free WiFi
- Chili's -Torre La Castellana
- Tony Roma's - Las Mercedes
- Café Ole
[edit] Cope
[edit] Get out
El Litoral, or the narrow band of coast between El Avila and the Caribbean Sea, is also known at the State of Vargas and the location of the best airport hotels. These beaches are not well known with visitors but are popular with Caraqueños on weekends. The area has been slow to recover from the disasterous mudslides of December 1999 which ironically made the beaches better. Still they are of lesser quality than the beaches of Choroni, Morrocoy, Mochima or Margarita.
- La Guaira - historic port district
- Macuto - long history as the favored among the urbanite Caracenos and most crowded on weekends
- Caraballeda - upscale district with yacht marina
- Naiguatá - surf and cultural festival zone
- Catia La Mar - west of the airport with cheaper hotels that do airport pickup. Marginal neighborhood and beaches
- El Hatillo - nice restaurants and pretty colonial architecture.