Category:China


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Travelers come to China for many things—ancient palaces, the Great Wall, cups of tea, mountains, deserts, and musing Buddhas. To say that they find what they were looking for would be an understatement. China has a thousand faces, from the extravagantly in-your-face new to the hauntingly old, and guessing what you’ll see next is like trying to predict the latest fashions in Shanghai. The country won’t simply meet your expectations of narrow cobblestoned hútòng, old men smoking a pipe over a game of mahjong, or even rice paddies dotted with water buffalo and workers wearing straw hats. The mahjong games are still there, of course, and the water buffalo still wallow, but as often as not the ivory (and plastic) chips are played out to the beat of synthesized pop, the tiny alleys have grown up to become broad paved avenues humming with traffic, and the peasant whips out a cell phone to call up her sister in the city.

Five thousand years of history haven’t slowed this vast breadth of peoples and landscapes down one whit. The same fervor that led the country through revolution after revolution now propels China irrevocably into the future. Nor has China forgotten to look back: its millennia of history and tradition are as much a source of pride as the latest growth reports and gleaming new highrises. But China is not without growing pains, and part of its fascination is the neverending balancing act of past and present, with one sometimes shoved aside for the other. The twang of er hu strings jangles against the buzz of construction, proud red walls that once gazed out upon imperial processions now watch over neon-lit streets, and the brief respite of tranquility on a mountain top is suddenly broken by an eager crowd. No matter what you think China is, you won’t find it in one place or in one single moment. China has a thousand faces, and it's going to show you all of them.

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[edit] When to go

There’s never a wrong time to go to China. Winters may be bitterly cold in the north, but the Chinese New Year makes it a particularly festive, exciting time. China’s peak travel season usually kicks in around early July, and not even the hot summers deter people from taking to the kilometers of rail. Hotel prices rise with the temperature, budget rooms vanish at an alarming pace, train tickets are quickly snapped up, and yellow-hatted tour groups march out in full force. Come September and cooler seasons, students return to school and peace reigns over mountains and temples, making early autumn and late spring some of the best times to begin your rambles in China.

The rainy season lasts from May to July, longer in southern China. The area south of the Yangzi River is affected the most, but even cities as far north as Beijing can get pelted by sudden heavy rainstorms whipping up out of the blue. In June through August, seasonal flooding is a serious concern, in particular along the Yangzi and Yellow Rivers. Floods and landslides due to heavy summer rains can make transportation treacherous, especially in rural areas, with their dirt roads, rickety bridges, and unreliable vehicles. Summer monsoons unleash deluges of rain in southern Yunnan, Guangxi, and Guangdong provinces, as well as in Hong Kong and Macau. Typhoons, or hurricanes, are the strongest in late summer and early autumn, lashing the south coasts with vigor. Taking all this into consideration, late October through April may be the best time to visit China’s south coasts, where winters are mild and dry.

Weather concerns aside, millions of Chinese travel or visit family and friends during holidays and festivals, resulting in price hikes, fully-booked hotels, sold-out train, bus, and plane tickets, and crowded sights. The major holidays occur in the days leading up to and after the Chinese New Year (late Jan.-Feb.), International Labor Day (May 1), People’s Liberation Army Day (Aug. 1), and National Day (Oct. 1).

[edit] Suggested itineraries

[edit] Best of China (5-6 Weeks)

Dive headlong into China in fast-paced, dazzling Beijing, capital city and pulsing heart of the nation. See how emperors spent their summers in lavish palaces, then jump-start yours in the bars and clubs of Sanlitun. Hop a train to Xi’an to admire ancient China at its grandest in the tombs of its emperors (and one empress). Leave imperial ostentation behind for the breezy air of laid-back Chengdu, a perfect springboard into the mountain wilderness beyond. Don’t miss a trip north to Jiuzhaigou, with its turquoise waters so pristine that you’ll never want to leave. Swinging back down, search for your own Buddhist halo on the holy mountains of Emeishan before journeying south to fair Kunming, city of flowers and gateway to the minority villages and wilds of Yunnan. Travel next to the storybook scenery of Guilin, nestled amid soft limestone peaks and terraced rice paddies. Then plunge into cosmopolitan Shanghai, with its blend of European charm and non-stop glitz along the Bund. Seek a calmer pace by the willow-shaded shores of the West Lake in Hangzhou. Finish up with a hike up Huangshan, China’s most famous mountain, and justifiably so. Locals will tell you that after climbing its jagged pine-strewn peaks and glimpsing a sunrise from its summit, you’ll never have to visit another mountain again.

[edit] Coasting Along (3-4 Weeks)

Lazy and idyllic, a ramble through the coasts of southern China passes through serene scenery and comfortable urban centers. Indulge in unabashedly modern Shanghai, where there’s enough shopping and strolling for even the most avid urbanite. Then enter another world upon the Buddhist island of Putuoshan, cooled by sea breezes and shaded by bamboo groves. Sip freshly harvested tea from the fields of Longjing near Hangzhou and relax with a cup of China’s most famous tea. A ferry down the Grand Canal brings you to the classical gardens, canals, and half-moon bridges of Suzhou. Wander the rain-misted paths of Wuyishan, a realm of gurgling streams, peaks, waterfalls, and secluded trails. Haunting mosques remind Quanzhou of its ancient sea-faring days as a port on the “Silk Road of the Sea.” Daydream upon Xiamen’s island of Guylangyu, with its tranquil gardens and ocean views. After all that serenity, head to cosmopolitan Guangzhou, and crown your trip with a few energized days and glamorous nights in Hong Kong.

[edit] Head in the Clouds (4 Weeks):

Lose yourself in dizzying beauty from the height of China’s mist-wreathed peaks. A train from Beijing takes you to the remote mountain village of Wutaishan, where Buddhist monks jostle with Mongol-speaking pilgrims. Huff and puff up the steep steps of Taishan, and don’t forget to say a prayer to the mountain gods once you’ve reached the summit. Heading south into Anhui, wander the paths of Jiuhuashan, chat with friendly monks, and breathe in Buddhist incense and natural serenity. Not far from Jiuhuashan, Huangshan soars above the mists and clouds, an inspiration to poets, artists, and jaded travelers alike. Then wind your way down to Lushan, where waterfalls tumble down forest-cloaked mountainsides. And there’s no better way to end your tour of China’s mountains than a float on a bamboo raft on the Nine Bend River of Wuyishan. After all those muscle-aching climbs, bask on the sunny beaches of Xiamen, or sip a fragrant cup of eight-treasures tea on the fair isle of Gulangyu.

[edit] Sand, Silk, and Grottoes (4-5 Weeks)

Trace the ribbon of Silk Road that once crossed expanses of sun-burnt desert 2000 years ago from China to India, Central Asia, Arabia, and beyond. Begin your journey in the ancient dynastic capital of Xi’an, from where camel caravans set out, laden with silk. Clamber over the rocks and cliffs of Tianshui, and peek at the thousands of Buddhist sculptures tucked into the Maijishan Grottoes. Climb the Great Wall’s last and most stately pass at Jiayuguan, gazing west at the first hints of the stark desert and mountains. Dunhuang marked the last lonely outpost of the Han empire. Before passing into the “barbarian” lands beyond, ancient merchants stopped to pray for luck and safety at the Mogao Grottoes, now the world’s best-preserved Buddhist cave art. Quench your thirst with refreshingly sweet melons and grapes at Turpan, in the midst of fiery red mountains and ancient ruins. Plunge back into the whirl of city life in Ürümqi, or sleep beneath the stars by the shores of Tianchi, the “Heavenly Lake.” Those who have extra time can loop up to isolated Yining and Altai, with their nearby Mongol and Kazakh villages, icy waters, summer wildflowers, birch forests, and mountains reaching to the sky. Forging on with the Silk Road, skirt the northern edge of the Tarim Basin and the Taklimakan Desert. Stop briefly in Korla, then continue west to Kuqa for a fascinating glimpse into Uighur culture and more parched vistas. Finish in the clamor and excitement of Kashgar, whose lively bazaars and colorful international mix make it the perfect modern-day Silk Road outpost.

[edit] Path to Enlightenment (4 Weeks)

Set out from Chengdu to the sacred Buddhist mountain of Emeishan, where the misty peaks and soft chants and prayers echoing from monasteries will convince you that you’re no longer on earth. After admiring the Big Buddha of Leshan, trek down to the Tibetan town of Kangding, tucked within icy mountain ranges and alpine grasslands. Deqin sits by the pristine Mekong River, which tumbles down from the Tibetan plateau. Meadows starred with wildflowers scatter around Zhongdian, the gateway to Tibet. Make the mighty leap to the “Roof of the World,” where the sky is wider, bluer, and closer than ever before. Breathe in the scent of yak-butter lamps in Lhasa’s hallowed Jokhang Temple and enjoy the cool breezes by the shores of Lake Namtso. Then embark upon the Friendship Highway, an exhilarating journey to the border of Nepal. Hike by the sapphire waters of Lake Yamdroktso and cheer on the horse racers at Gyantse. Stop by Shigatse to see the Tashilhunpo Monastery, ancient home to the Panchen Lama. Brightly colored prayer flags flap in the winds at the monasteries of Sakya. Watch the sunlight play upon the incomparable visage of Mt. Everest from the base camp, then careen off upon the last magnificent stretch of the Friendship Highway.

[edit] The Long Trek (5 Weeks)

For journeys into the wilds, free-flowing beer, and cheerful backpacking friends, break away from the tour groups to appreciate southwest China at its loveliest. The haven for wandering Westerners, Yangshuo promises friendly cafes as well as floats down the Li River along the region’s limestone hills and verdant greenery. Endless terraces of rice paddies sculpt the layered hills of Longsheng into an unforgettable vista. Let Kunming’s soothing charm distract you before you jaunt south to Xishuangbanna, with its myriad possibilities for treks through lush rainforests, tiny Dai minority villages, and rice paddies. Swap adventurous tales with fellow backpackers in expat-friendly Dali and bargain for batik in the markets. Listen to the haunting tones of ancient Naxi music in Lijiang, wander its narrow cobblestone streets, then scale the snow mountain looming over the ancient town. Tiger Leaping Gorge remains an incredible and thrilling stop on any journey north, with its deep chasms and rushing river. Row across the ice-blue Lugu Lake to island monasteries, or trek along its shores, discovering Mosuo villages along the way. Greet the dawn with the early morning chants and music of russet-robed lamas in Zhongdian, thought by some to be the legendary “Shangri La.” After exploring its nearby lakes and mountains, challenge yourself with the Meili Snow Mountains of Deqin, a tiny Tibetan town nestled amid peaks and grasslands.


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