Fortaleza

From MyVacationsTo

Fortaleza is a major city on Brazil's northeast coast, and the capital of Ceará state.

Contents 1 Understand 2 Get in 2.1 By air 2.2 By bus 3 Get around 3.1 Orientation 3.2 By subway 3.3 By bus 3.4 By taxi 3.5 Rental car 4 See 5 Do 5.1 Urban Beaches 5.2 Surfing 5.3 Schooner cruises 5.4 Deep sea game fishing 5.5 Cinemas 6 Buy 7 Eat 8 Drink 8.1 Prostitution 9 Sleep 9.1 Budget 9.2 Mid Range 10 Contact 11 Stay safe 12 Cope 13 Get out 13.1 Out-of-town Beaches

[edit] Understand

Fortaleza is mostly about beaches. Temperatures range from 23-31 C with rare exceptions. July - November has virtually no rain. February - May can have its share, but mostly at night. The city has been invaded by Europeans over the past decade and prostitution is rife in tourist areas. Fairly safe for a Brazilian city this size (about 2,5 million), but don't wander too far from Beira Mar, especially not after dark. Although quite a party town, Fortaleza itself hibernates during carnival, when any party-animal who can afford to goes to some outlying beach.

The author José de Alencar is so important for the identity of the city of Fortaleza (and also the state), that its inhabitants are known as Alencarinos. He eagerly discussed the origins of the people, languages and geographical names of the region. Most important in this context is the novel Iracema, with its renowned main character lending her name to several neighbourhoods and inspiring statues around town.

In Brazil, Fortaleza is also known for its crop of comedians, and the forró music and dance, all gaining popularity countrywide.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By air

The modern international airport Pinto Martins was opened in 1998. Airlines fly to almost everywhere in Brazil and also other capitals of South America. One daily flight to Miami, via Belém and Manaus, by TAM[1], one to Lisboa by TAP[2], and several weekly charters to major European airports, and even Cape Verde.

There is an urban bus 404 Aeroporto/Benfica which runs frequently between the airport and the center, where you can find buses to virtually anywhere in Fortaleza. Going to the urban beaches can either be done this way, or by crossing the parking lot and the highway (keep slightly to the right, not recommended at night) and catch the 027 Siqueira Papicu/Aeroporto, which will take you pretty straight to Praça Portugal/Shopping Aldeota. From here you can either walk some 7 blocks along Avenida Desembargador Moreira to the beach of Meireles, or you can waith for Circular 1 which passes within a block of most hotels in Meireles and Praia Iracema. Reverse this process (Start with Circular 2) to get to the airport, which is slightly easier as the bus then stops right in front of the terminal, and not on the highway.

There are two types of taxis, follow the signs: Airport taxis are more expensive, and have fixed prices. Regular taxis offer just about the same comfort, and run on the meter, stopping at about R$ 25 to Praia de Iracema or Meireles. Bargaining is tough out here, but fairly easy in the opposite direction.

[edit] By bus

The Central bus station links Fortaleza with all the capitals in the Northeast region and also Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, and most rest of the country via connections. Note that most lines within the state of Ceara have their last coach leaving around 1800-1900.

Taxi to Beira Mar is about R$ 15. The bus 078 Siqueira Mucuripe will take you the same place, -mind the direction!

[edit] Get around

[edit] Orientation

Most tourists will not go more than 5 blocks from the sea, except for the airport and bus station, and perhaps a shopping mall. The following main streets will take you from the city centre to the fish market, by way of Dragão do Mar and the beaches Iracema and Meireles, totalling some 6 km: Avenida Almirante Barroso, Avenida Beira Mar (until Rua Idelefonso Albano, where it's cut off by an artificial beach), Avenida Historiador Raimundo Girão, Avenida Beira Mar (from Avenida Rui Barbosa). This last section of Beira Mar (literally Sea Side), covering some three km, is by far the most attractive part of the city, with police stands and patrols making it fairly safe around the clock, although rather deserted from midnight to dawn. From the fish market, where the Avenida Beira Mar with its broad pavement stops, to the beach of Praia do Futuro is the port area, backed by a refinery and slums. Walking here at daytime can be risky, -at night it's asking for trouble.

[edit] By subway

Many years in the planning, and quite some time under construction, always halted but budget quarrels, Metrofor promises to take you there and back in no time. Whenever it will be operational.

[edit] By bus

As any major Brazilian city, Fortaleza can be done almost entirely by bus. Ticket price is R$ 1,60 (rare exceptions), and if you get off at a terminal you can change lines without paying again. Most lines run 7 days a week 0500-2300, give or take. The lines listed here, deemed most useful for tourists, will run roughly every 5-10 minutes daytime weekdays, frequencies perhaps halved nightime and weekends. Only the most useful parts of the routes are described. Some lines have the number 1 or 2 after their names, only to indicate direction, others don't. I.e. the very same bus with the same number and name could be running either from A to B, or from B to A. Ask!

Centro/Beira Mar Caca e Pesca is comfy and air conditioned. It runs Monsenhor Tabosa - Joao Cordeiro - Historiador Raimundo Girao - Beira Mar and all along Praia do Futuro. Returning it swaps Beira Mar for Abolicao. This bus can get very packed from Praia do Futuro before sunset. Risk of muggings at Praia do Futuro bus stops after dark.

Circular 1/2 City centre - Mercado Central - Dragao do Mar - Historiador Raimundo Girao - Abolica - Desembargador Moreira passed Shopping Aldeota.

Siqueira Mucuripe Abolicao - Barao de Studart - Tenente Benevolo - Dom Manuel, takes you to Policia Federal (for visa extensions etc.) and, right after, the bus station. Returns by Dom Manuel - Dragao do Mar - Historiador Raimundo Girao - Abolicao.

Grande Circular 1/2 24 hours!!! City Centre - Dragao do Mar - Historiador Raimundo Girao - Abolicao - Praia do Futuro - Terminal Papicu - Shopping Iguatemi.

Centro Iguatemi R$ 2,50. Last bus leaves Iguatemi at 2200, does not run on Sundays. Comfy and air conditioned. City centre - Monsenhor Tabosa - Abolicao - Desembargador Moreira (Shopping Aldeota), leaves you inside the Iguatemi shopping mall.

[edit] By taxi

All taxis in town run on the same meter system, except the special cabs at the airport. Start price is R$2,96, then R$1,48 per km on rate 1. Rate 2 is 30% more expensive. Rate 2 is charged on weekdays from 20:00 to 24:00 and from 00:00 to 06:00, Saturdays from 13:00 to 24:00 and all Sunday, public holidays, and the whole month of December. Cab drivers in Fortaleza are fairly honest. The meter should always run unless yoy have fixed a price before getting into the car. Most trips that would exceed R$ 10 on the meter are negotiable, and when you pass R$ 30 on the meter a discount of up to 50% could be obtained if you bargain well.

Average bargained prices to out-of-town-destinations: Cumbuco R$ 80 return same day. Canoa Quebrada R$ 140.

[edit] Rental car

Brazilian city traffic makes this option rather less than tempting for anyone that normally honks less than once a minute while driving back home. The city is best covered by bus and cab, but a car can make many daytrips to outlying beaches. Rental shops are virtually everywhere. Despite huge signs claiming low prices, you will hardly end up paying less than R$ 60 for the most basic car, -plus fuel. Beach buggies start at R$ 100.

[edit] See

• Praça do Ferreira is the major city square, and has stores, restaurants, and movie theaters as well as plenty of benches for just sitting and watching people.
• Praça José de Alencar has plenty of greenery and is the place to catch the city's best street performers.
• The relatively new Dragão do Mar culture center has an art museum and other modern attractions.
• Museu de Arte e Cultura Popular, Rua Senador Pompeu, near the beach. Located within the Centro de Turismo, this museum, housed in a single large room, displays many fine examples of folk art as well as boats and other cultural relics.
• The sunset, either from Ponte Metalica, Praia Iracema, or the beach by the fish market, Mucuripe.
• Parque Ecologico do Cocó, the city's largest, near the Iguatemi-mall.
• Cathedral, city centre. The closer you get, the worse it looks, with a parking lot and all. But it still has nice mosaics. Note the span between the initial works and the inaugural mass, above the main entrance.

[edit] Do

[edit] Urban Beaches

Advice: Don't buy anything from beach (or street) vendors. Their food is a potential hazard to your health, and most anything they sell can be had from the beach shacks at a similar price. Souvenirs and clothing is cheaper and more varied at the Feirinha or Mercado Publico (see Buy-section). Many of them will distract you and steal your belongings. And, please, don't feel sorry for the kids: The more money they can make on the street/beach, the more colleagues they will attract: Their income goes either straight to their parents, or to drug dealers. The city of Fortaleza provides food and shelter for homeless kids, -note the people with the high visibility vests strolling Beira Mar. If you are sitting at a table, and really need something from a vendor, -say cigarettes, -ask the waiter to do the shopping on the pavement. This will be appreciated by everyone around you.

There are two nice city beaches, Praia de Iracema and Meireles. Some people discourage bathing here, although they are mostly rated green by authorities (Click Serviços On-line, then Monitoramente de Praia)[3]. The whole stretch from the Ponte Metalica (or Ponte Inglesa) pier to the fish market is paralleled by the Avenida Beira Mar, very nice for an evening stroll. A string of shacks line the beachfront, mostly good for drinking and people watching. Unless otherwise stated, cross the street for food. The busiest strip (with the more expensive beer), including the bulk of beggars, prostitutes and vendors, is right in front of McDonald's. A selection listed from west (Praia Iracema) to east (Fish market):

• Bebelu, in front of Holiday Inn. Great variety of sandwiches until wee hours.
• Babagula, more sandwiches, playground for children.
• Barraca da Mamma, where the Scandinavians drink.
• Satehut, Dutch run. Clean toilet!
• Veraneio, the hedges protect you!
• Beira Mar Grill, decent food.

The most attractive urban beach is Praia do Futuro. Windy, with rather strong current and undertows, swimming can be a challenge, but for a dip it's fine. Numerous beach shacks, here a selection listed from north (closest to Beira Mar) to south, with their special features:

• Croco Beach. Plenty gringos. "After Beach" with live music on Sundays, sunset- eightish, no forro!
• Sorriso do Sol. Reggae and cannabis.
• Vira Verão. Young Brazilian crowd. If you're lucky, you'll get a table.
• Vila Galé. Belongs to the hotel. Perhaps the neatest appearance, definitely the most expensive!
• Jet Set Beach. Local rich kids.
• Côco Beach and Boa Vida. Mainly foreigners and their crew, live forro.

At the very end of Praia do Futuro its name changes to Caça e Pesca. Freshwater swimming in a strong current where the river Cocò meets the ocean.

[edit] Surfing

There is a surf school working at Meireles Wednesday - Sunday afternoons, R$ 10-20 an hour, including board rent. [4]

[edit] Schooner cruises

The two motorized schooners Philosophie and Whatsitcalledagain both do 2 hour cruises along the city beaches at R$ 25 per person, setting out daily at 10:00 and 16:00 from near the Iracema-statue, where they also have their ticket booths. The latter time is better, as you get the sunset. Bring swim-gear. Minimum of ten people required- often cancelled in the low season.

Another schooner takes you all the way to Cumbuco at 09:00, lands you for lunch and has buses you back to Fortaleza before 5 PM. R$ 130.

[edit] Deep sea game fishing

R$ 600 for a day.[5]

[edit] Cinemas

The largest complex at the Iguatemi-mall, with some 12 showrooms mostly displaying the latest fare from Hollywood. At Dragão do Mar there's a more alternative selection. Oba has the full program for the city's cinemas.

[edit] Buy

There are handicraft shops all around the city, but the best places to go are the Feirinha da Beira Mar (Beach front fair, daily from around 16:00) and the Mercado Público (Near the cathedral). These places have a large number of stalls and shops, and competition drives prices down. The state of Ceará has a large textile industry, and arguably the cheapest clothing in Brazil. Also the capital of hammocks, varieties of which can be found ranging from less than R$ 10 to more than R$ 100. Best place to buy is opposite the cathedral, city centre.

There is a very convenient Pão de Açucar round the clock supermarket by the intersection of Abolição and Desembargador Moreira. Although more expensive than most other shops, it has a good selection of groceries, and also some fresh fods.

[edit] Eat

Thursday is crab day in Fortaleza, especially in the many shacks at Praia do Futuro.

• For a cheap and good lunch, try the place with no name at Monsenhor Tabosa 1010, in front of Amazon Rent a Car, from 1045 to 1345 The normal mix of rice, beans, farofa and vegetables comes with some four different options, like chicken, fried or boiled beef, all fresh. At R$ 3,50 it includes a softdrink. Also has a few a la carte options and fresh juices.

Three options for a rodizio (grilled meats en masse):

• <eat name="Churrascaria Gheller" address="Av. Monsenhor Tabosa 825, corner of Antonio Augusto, Praia Iracema" phone="3219 3599" email="" fax="" hours="13:00-late" price="All you can eat R$ 20" url="">This is arguably the best value rodizio in the tourist area. If you are not too hungry, you can also pay R$ 22 per kilo. Tuesdays and Saturdays there's a stand-up comedian at 21:00, adding R$ 10 per person to your bill.</eat>
• <eat name="Sal e Brasa" address="Av Abolição" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="All you can eat R$ 43" url="http://www.salebrasa.com.br/asp/"></eat>
• <eat name="Boi Preto" address="Av Beira Mar" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="All you can eat R$ 59" url="http://www.grupoboipreto.com.br">Is it worth it?</eat>

The state of Ceará is renowned for it's seafood. Near the fish market are several restaurants:

• <eat name="Peixada do Meio" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="Many dishes for two at around R$ 30, also meat." url=""></eat>

If you are a bit more courageous, buy your shrimp, lobster, squid, whatever straight from the stalls, and one of the nearby shacks to fry it for you. One kilo of mid-sized shrimps about R$ 15, R$ 3 for frying, -then plenty of beers!

There is bad, watery, plastic flavoured ice cream galore in Fortaleza, as elsewhere in Brazil. Try these for the real stuff:

• <eat name="Sorveteria 50 sabores" address="Opposite fish market" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="R$ 4 for two scoops" url=""></eat>
• <eat name="Barbarossa" address="Several tiny branches around town" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url=""></eat>

If your accommodation has bad or no breakfast, most large hotels let you take part in theirs for about R$ 10-15. A good deal is at Ibis (see below) weekdays until 10, weekedns until 11.

[edit] Drink

Grab a chilled coconut from a stall at Beira Mar, possibly less than R$ 1!

Fortaleza is a forro-stronghold. Virtually any day of the week you can find a party with live music and this traditional dance, sometimes in quite modern variations (often referred to as forro universitario). On weekends you can choose from literally dozens of places. For a more genuine, tourist-free happening, you must move towards the outskirts of the city, paying up to R$ 30 by cab.

Traditionally, Fortaleza nightspots have their dedicated day of the week, like Pirata (below) on Mondays. So, when asking around for a place to go, always be specific on when.

For daytime drinking, which can be quite a party, specially on weekends, see the Beaches-section.

• Chico do Caranguejo one of many beach shacks at Praia do Futuro.
• Mucuripe, Travessa Maranguape, 108. Tel. 3254.3020 [6]. Fanciest club in town, best on Fridays. Ticket normally R$ 25 (everyone pays "half-price", don´t be fooled by vendors on the street that claim that its R$ 50 inside.) Be aware that foreigners with brazilian girlfriends often are turned back at the entrance. Enter separately.
• Forró do Pirata on Mondays in Praia de Iracema. A very happening crowd dances to forró and axé music. Overpriced at R$ 30.

The largest concentration of watering holes, very practical if you want to hit and miss and don't have a car, is at Dragão do Mar, Praia Iracema. This area features refurbished colonial buildings, loads of open air seating, live music (sometimes charged), and happy hour beer. Fridays and Saturdays the party is everywhere:

• Café Santa Clara, Excellent coffee, good bites, and extreme air-conditioning in a pleasant setting. Slow service, though.
• <drink name="Armazem" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="23-04" price="Entry R$ 15" url="">Good on Wednesdays, often hosts famous forró-bands. Attracts its share of working girls.</drink>
• <drink name="Bar Fun 4 You" address="Rua dos Potiguaras 110" phone="" email="contact@barfun4you.com" fax="" hours="22-04" price="Entry Free" url="http://www.barfun4you.com">Open 7 nights a week, exclusive bar with exclusive drinkt.</drink>
• <drink name="Órbita" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="23-03" price="Entry R$ 15" url="">Brazilian and international rock and pop cover bands. Later electronica DJs. Thursdays and Sundays(from 21:00) good.</drink>
• <drink name="Dona Santa" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">Gay, transvestite and more.</drink>
• <drink name="Music Box" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">Gay</drink>
• <drink name="Havana Club" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">Salsa y Merengue</drink>
• <drink name="Chope do Bexiga" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">Famous for its Chope de Vinho (Is it wine or beer after all?)</drink>
• <drink name="Bueno Amici's" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="Entry R$ 8" url="">Informal, variety of styles.</drink>
• <drink name="O Brasileirinho" address="2 blocks off" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">Samba and Pagode</drink>
• <drink name="Hey Ho Rock Bar" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">Wear black!</drink>

Many of the shacks at Praia do Futuro host parties nightime Thursday - Sunday.

• Biruta, Mostly electronica on Fridays.

Another area of interest is Varjota, inland from Mucuripe. Plenty of bars and restaurants. Take Rua Frei Mansueto from Beira Mar, 5-10 blocks.

[edit] Prostitution

Like it or not, Fortaleza has grown into the Brazilian Gringo-prostitution capital. (At least by repuatation. Rio arguably wins in absolute figures.) Many foreigners, especially Europeans, fly in on charters with this as the main attraction. Unfortunately, this affects other travelers, particularly single men. Many Brazilians, including otherwise sympathetic girls, will assume you are there for "business". The main concentration is at "Happy Street", Praia de Iracema, where the clubs Forrò Mambo (R$ 20), Café del Mar (R$ 15) and its immediate neighbours serve overpriced drinks. Any drinking spot that attracts foreigners is bound to attract working girls, therefore some of them try to filter the entries.

[edit] Sleep

Reservations are essential in January, when Brazilian holidaymakers pack in. September-November and March-May have room for bargaining at most posted prices. Many hotels will immediately give you 30% off.

Most hotels are on the strip Praia Iracema - Meireles - Mucuripe, parallel to Avenida Beira Mar, and up to about 4 blocks inland. Categories are spread about, but Praia Iracema has most budget options. Many cheap deals can be struck at Praia do Futuro, but be aware transport costs and lack of security at night.

[edit] Budget

There are two youth hostels in Praia Iracema, both within 100 m from the church. They charge R$ 30-35 for a dorm bed, which is more expensive than the cheapest single rooms in the same area.

• Hotel Passeio, Rua Dr. João Moreira 221, across from the Passeio Público. Budget-priced and a bit run-down. Singles around R$25.
• Hotel Caxambu, Rua General Bezerril 22. Modern and well-equipped. Rooms with TV and A/C for the same price as the Passeio.

[edit] Mid Range

• La Maison[7], Av. Des. Moreira 201. Small, conveniently located hotel with nice rooms and friendly staff. Singles R$100.
• Ibis[8] Just up from Holiday Inn at Historiador Raimundo Girao. Convenient for online booking and cancelling. R$ 69 single, 99 double. Breakfast R$ 9.
• <sleep name="Pousada Villa Marina" alt="" address="" directions="" phone="" email="" fax="" url="http://www.pousadavillamarina.com.br/indexeng.html" checkin="" checkout="" price="Doubles R$ 95"></sleep>

There are dozens of agencies renting furnished apartments. A typical modern two bedroom 65 m2 flat, fully furnished and equipped 2 blocks from Beira Mar will cost around R$ 70 a day in low season, double in high. Monthly rates are about R$ 1000 low season, R$ 2000 or more peak. Mostly you have to pay electricity on top of this. Be aware that an air conditioner can set you back R$ 20 a day if you leave it running.

Many hotels put "flat" or "residence" in their name. This mostly means that you can buy an apartment there, and many of the owners will rent these for a price substantially less than the one posted in the reception. Monthly deals can come under the R$ 1000 mark in low season, including linen change and cleaning.

If you go for a furnished room with a bathroom (often no fridge or a/c), referred to as a kitchenette (often spelled "Kitnet", or anything in between), you will typically be charged R$ 3-400 a month in high season. Praia Iracema has most of these.

[edit] Contact

• Internet is everywhere, with greatly varying comfort, hardware and bandwidth. R$ 4 an hour is an ok price in tourist areas, -more is too much. If you go inland you can get down to R$1/h
• Several post offices near Beira Mar: Around the corner from the Praia Iracema grocery store; between Ideal Clube and Habib´s; On Beira Mar near the fish market.

[edit] Stay safe

[edit] Cope

There are plenty of laundries around. Those which charge per kg (mostly R$ 6-10) are somewhat cheaper than those which charge per garment. Your clothes are normally ready next day. There is one single self-service laundry:

• Lav e Lev at Avenida Abolição just by the corner of Avendida Desembaragador Moreira. R$ 8,50 to wash a big load, then typically R$ 17 to dry it. Turns out cheaper, plus you have it all ready in less than 2 hours. Add R$ 1,50 per garment for ironing.
• Laundromat at the corner of Av. Abolição and Rua Paulo Barros washes and dries a load for R$ 17, ready within 24 hours.

Changing cash EUR or USD into BRL is mostly done at interbank rates, meaning that it's better value than most all cash advances on credit or debit cards. Many travel agencies exchange money, and there are 4 exchange bureaus on a string by McDonald´s at Av. Beira Mar, -a good place to compare rates.

[edit] Get out

[edit] Out-of-town Beaches

Any tour agency, and a number of pushers along Beira Mar, can offer you daytrips, and longer packages, to outlying beaches. The one thing they have in common is the price, -it's fixed in between them, and it's far too expensive. If you are a group of 3-4 persons, a taxi can mostly be negotiated for less.

Cumbuco is a small fishing village, grown into a kite-surfers' paradise. Fresh water lakes with swimming nearby. Dune buggy tours. Horseback riding along the beach. A traditional fishing boat, Jangada, gives you a postcard view of the coastline, -R$ 10 per person, about 45 minutes. Buses from Ideal Clube R$ 3.

Jericoacoara is among Brazil's finest, and hence makes its way into any global listing. Buses (changing to trucks in Jijoca)twice daily[9]from outside Praiano Palace Hotel in Fortaleza.

Canoa Quebrada used to be quite rustic, attracting mostly hippies. Now it's slowly growing into a resort town. Fairly fast and cheap transport by bus to Aracati, then switch to vans.

Some 16 km outside Fortaleza, at the beach of Prainha, is a huge water park with slides and other wet interactive fun, Beach Park[10]. Stiffly priced at R$ 80 for a day. Out of season they typically close once or twice a week, although rarely on weekends. The beach right outside the park is very nice, and totally for free!