Hong Kong
From MyVacationsTo
Hong Kong has the big city specials like smog, odour, 14 million elbows and an insane love of clatter. But it's also efficient, hushed and peaceful: the transport network is excellent, the shopping centres are sublime, and the temples and quiet corners of parks are contemplative oases.
The best thing about being in Hong Kong is getting flummoxed and fired by the confluences and contradictions of a Chinese city with multi-Asian and Western elements. It's about savouring new tastes, weaving through a human gridlock and humming some dumb Cantopop tune while slurping your noodles.
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[edit] When To Go
Weatherwise, October, November and most of December are the best months to visit Hong Kong; the skies are clear and the sun shines. The June to August heat/rain combo might push your endurance but there's a lot of sunshine and, after all, it's summer. Hotels tend to offer substantial discounts outside the high seasons of March-April and October-November. Travel can be difficult during Chinese New Year in late January/early February.
[edit] Weather Overview
Many prefer to visit Hong Kong during November and December when there are pleasant breezes, plenty of sunshine and comfortable temperatures. January and February are OK times to visit, but the temperature can drop to below 10°C (50°F). Warmer temperatures make March and April pleasant months to go, but in May the air becomes uncomfortably sticky and humid. Typhoons hit Hong Kong most years between about May and September, though the city is so well prepared it would need to be a very big storm to disrupt your travel too much.
[edit] Places to See
Hong Kong has enough towering urbanity, electric streetscapes, enigmatic temples, commercial fervour and cultural idiosyncrasies to utterly swamp the senses of a visitor, and enough spontaneous, unexpected possibilities to make a complete mockery of any attempt at a strictly organised itinerary.
[edit] Hong Kong Museum of Art
The Museum of Art does a good job with classical Chinese art, showcase paintings and lithographs of old Hong Kong, and a Xubaizhi collection of painting and calligraphy. Another hall shows creditable international exhibitions, but the gallery falls down in contemporary art - visit the smaller galleries around for recent Chinese art.
Hours: Fri-Wed 10:00am-6:00pm 10 Salisbury Rd Tel: 7221 0116 (info) Web: http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/hkma
[edit] Hong Kong Museum of History
This museum takes visitors through the area's history, from 6000 years ago to the fast-talking present. Landform, flora and fauna are covered before the human stories get a look in with replicas of village dwellings, traditional Chinese costumes and a realistic re-creation of an entire street block from 1881.
Hong Kong's newest museum, which opened its permanent exhibition in 2001, focuses on the territory's archaeology, natural history, ethnography and local history. It is well worth a visit not only to learn more about the subject but to understand how Hong Kong presents its history to itself and the world.
'The Hong Kong Story' takes visitors on a fascinating walk through the territory's past via eight galleries, starting with the natural environment and prehistoric Hong Kong - about 6000 years ago, give or take a lunar year - and ending with the territory's return to China in 1997. Along the way you'll encounter replicas of village dwellings; traditional Chinese costumes and beds; a re-creation of an entire arcaded street in Central from 1881, including an old Chinese medicine shop; a tram from 1913; and film footage of WWII, including recent interviews with Chinese and foreigners taken prisoner by the Japanese.
Hours: Mon, Wed-Sat 10:00am-6:00pm, Sun 10:00am-7:00pm 100 Chatham Rd South Tel: 2724 9042 (info) Web: http://www.hk.history.museum
[edit] Hong Kong Science Museum
This multilevel complex has over 500 displays on computers, energy, physics, robotics, telecommunications, health and more. Most exhibits are 'hands on', which helps keep youngsters interested. It's a great place for kids, while adults can realise how interesting science classes could have been.
Hours: Mon-Wed, Fri 1:00pm-9:00pm, Sat-Sun 10:00am-9:00pm 2 Science Museum Rd Tel: 2732 3232 (info) Web: http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/Science
[edit] Hong Kong Space Museum
Just east of the Hong Kong Cultural Centre is the Hong Kong Space Museum, a peculiar looking building shaped like a golf ball. The museum is divided into three parts: the Hall of Space Science, the Hall of Astronomy and the ever-popular Space Theatre, one of the largest planetariums in the world.
There are lots of videos and hands-on displays; exhibits include a lump of moon rock, models of a rocket ship and NASA's 1962 Mercury space capsule.
The Space Theatre screens 'sky shows' and films on a massive Omnimax screen. Lasting about 40 minutes, the films are mostly in Cantonese, but translations by headphones are available.
Children under three are not allowed into the Space Theatre, no matter how much they scream or stamp their little feet. Advance bookings can be made by phone up to one hour before show time.
Hours: Mon, Wed & Fri 1:00pm-9:00pm; Sat-Sun 10:00am-9:00pm 10 Salisbury Rd Tel: 2721 0226 (info) Web: http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/Space/index.htm
[edit] Jardine House
A short distance southeast of Star Ferry pier, this 52-storey silver monolith punctured with 1750 porthole-like windows was Hong Kong's first true 'skyscraper' when it opened as the Connaught Centre in 1973. Hong Kong Chinese like giving nicknames to things (and people) and the centre has been dubbed the 'House of 1000 Arseholes'.
[edit] Kowloon Walled City Park
The walls that enclose this beautiful park were once the perimeter of a notorious village, part of China throughout British rule. The enclave was known for its sordid proclivities until the Hong Kong government acquired the area, evicted the residents and replaced them with pavilions, ponds, turtles, goldfish and exquisite flora.
Hours: 6:30am-11:00pm cnr Tung Tau Tsuen & Tung Tsing Rds Tel: 2716 9962 (info) Tel: 2762 2084 (info) Web: http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/ls_park.php
[edit] Man Mo Temple
This temple is one of the oldest and most famous in Hong Kong. The Man Mo, literally 'Civil and Military', is dedicated to the two deities of aforementioned attributes. Inside the temple are two antique chairs shaped like houses, used to carry the two gods at festival time. The smell of incense coils suspended from the roof permeates the air.
The civil deity is a Chinese statesman of the 3rd century BC called Man Cheung, who is worshipped as the god of literature and is represented holding a writing brush. The military deity is Kwan Yu (or Kwan Tai), a Han-dynasty soldier born in the 2nd century AD and now venerated as the red-cheeked god of war; he is holding a sword. Kwan Yu's popularity in Hong Kong probably has more to do with his additional status as the patron god of restaurants, pawnshops, the police force and secret societies such as the Triads.
Hours: 8:00am-6:00pm 124-26 Hollywood Rd Tel: 2540 0350 (info)
[edit] Miu Fat Monastery
Miu Fat Monastery in Lam Tei, due north of Tuen Mun town centre, is one of the most well-kept and attractive Buddhist complexes in the territory. Guarding the entrance to the main temple are two stone lions and two stone elephants, and there are attractive gardens outside to the south.
This is an active monastery that preserves more of a traditional character than many smaller temples; you'll see Buddhist nuns in droves wearing brown robes.
On the ground floor there's a golden likeness of Buddha in a glass case; on the 2nd floor are three larger statues of Lord Gautama. The 1st floor is a vegetarian restaurant serving set meals and open to all.
Tuen Mun, where the monastery is located, is the largest and most important New Town in the western New Territories. Its seemingly endless rows of high-rise housing estates can be off-putting at first, but they do hide a few interesting spots, as evidenced by the appealing Buddhist aesthetic of Miu Fat.
Hours: 9:00am-5:00pm 18 Castle Peak Rd Tel: 2461 8567 (info)
[edit] Ocean Park
Ocean Park is an amusement park with a roller coaster and other stomach-turning rides. It is also a marine park, with dolphin and killer whale shows, seals and sea lions, a shark aquarium and aviaries featuring the 'Amazing Birds' theatre.
The park is divided into two sections. The main entrance is on the lowland side, where there are gardens and the Hong Kong Jockey Club Giant Panda Habitat, home to An An and Jia Jia. It is linked to the main section on the headland, where most of the attractions are found, by a scenic (and hair-raising) cable car. The headland section affords beautiful views of the South China Sea and at the rear entrance, where a giant escalator will bring you down to Tai Shue Wan and Shum Wan Rd, is the Middle Kingdom, a sort of Chinese cultural village with temples, pagodas and traditional street scenes.
Hours: 9:30am-8:00pm Ocean Park Rd Tel: 2552 0291 (info) Web: http://www.oceanpark.com.hk
[edit] Victoria Peak
If you're in Hong Kong, you'd be mad to miss a trip to the top of Victoria Peak, 552m (1810ft) above sea level. The views are giddyingly beautiful in every direction, with the vista of the business district, Victoria Harbour and Kowloon especially grand. In true Hong Kong style the main viewing deck is on the roof of a large shopping mall.
Join the throng of snap-happy tourists - you won't be disappointed. If you have time, it's worth making the trip to the top both in daylight (ideal to get your bearings) and at night, when the mass of lights around the harbour will take your breath away and make you wish you had a better camera. The actual peak is a 10-minute walk west and up.
Mt Austin Rd Tel: 2522 0922 (info) Web: http://www.thepeak.com.hk Email: peaktram@peninsula.com
[edit] Restaurants
If the pursuit of wealth is the engine that drives Hong Kong, its fuel is food. Noodles are slurped, succulent seafood savoured, dishes at banquets praised for their presentation, freshness and texture as well as taste, and many chefs enjoy celebrity status.
[edit] Accommodation
With the exception of screechingly lovely high-end joints, Hong Kong's hotels tend to impress only with their numbing sameness or, at the bottom end, with their resemblance to musty cupboards. But with over 35,000 rooms and occupancy usually under 90%, you should find a suitable place here.
Sometimes there is not a great deal to distinguish mid-range from top-end hotels, except perhaps a certain ambience and sense of style. At the budget end of the spectrum, things aren't wildly exciting on Hong Kong Island though there are a few good-value options available in the Causeway Bay area. Hotels can do weekly and monthly packages for visitors staying more than a night or two so you can make yourself at home.
[edit] Night Life
Hong Kong is the consummate entertainer, offering every kind of after-dark diversion. From upmarket pursuits like opera and theatre to a drinking scene that includes Wan Chai's sleazy hostess bars, and the alleyway crawlspaces of Lan Kwai Fong to numerous ego-shattering karaoke places.
[edit] Shopping
Shopping in Hong Kong goes way beyond buying stuff you need: it's a social activity, a favourite recreation, an after-hours release. Clothing, jewellery and electronics are the city's strong suits - all of them can be made to order, whether it's an Armani-copy ensemble, a pair of earrings or a PC.
[edit] Things to do
[edit] Cycling
There are plenty of bike paths in the New Territories, and it's easy to rent a bike, especially around Tolo Harbour. The bike paths can get crowded on weekends.
[edit] Hiking
Hong Kong is an excellent place for hiking: try Country Parks, Lantau Island and the MacLehose Trail in the New Territories. Hiking is a bit of a craze in Hong Kong so try and plan your trip away from the crowded weekends.
[edit] Swimming
There are good beaches everywhere except Kowloon and the north side of Hong Kong Island - the best ones are on the Outlying Islands. Make sure you swim at a patrolled beach, where you can be sure that the shark nets are checked daily and someone will save you if you get into trouble.
[edit] Events
Hong Kong's combined use of the Western calendar and the Chinese lunar calendar can make trying to determine the exact date of festivals a bit tricky. Chinese New Year takes place in late January/early February, and many people get four days off for the event. Expect a massive fireworks display over Victoria Harbour. The Tin Hau Festival is a Taoist festival falling around late April/early May. Junks are decorated and sail in long rows to Tin Hau temples to pray for clear skies and good fishing. The Dragon Boat Festival is held in June, with dragon boat races taking place in Hong Kong and Outlying Islands. Lantern Festival takes place in September or October. Lanterns are lit in homes, restaurants and temples. The Festival of Asian Arts is a major international event and usually occurs in October or November. The Hong Kong Tourism Board website (www.discoverhongkong.com) should have accurate dates.
[edit] Transportation
[edit] Getting there
Air travellers will be treated to Chek Lap Kok, Hong Kong's giant greenhouse of an airport; it's one of the world's ritziest. By land, the only way into Hong Kong is from mainland China: you can choose between bus and train. Water is perhaps the most picturesque way to arrive in Hong Kong; there are boats that take you between Hong Kong and destinations in Guangdong Province and Macau.
Air: Hong Kong is the major gateway to China and much of East Asia. International air service is excellent and fares are relatively cheap. Departure tax is usually included in the airfare. In June 1998 Hong Kong opened its new international airport - Chek Lap Kok - on Lantau Island, ending an era of steep descents and daredevil landings at Kai Tak in Kowloon.
Rail: By land, the only way into Hong Kong is through mainland China. Since the handover, transport options have increased dramatically, connecting places as close as Shenzhen and as far as Beijing. Although the Hong Kong SAR is now an integral part of China, visas are still required to cross the border with the mainland. Trains run between Hong Kong and Guangzhou (Canton), Shanghai and Beijing (about 30 hours). Big-spenders can take the Trans-Siberian Railway from Europe to Beijing and on to Hong Kong.
Road: Several transport companies in Hong Kong offer bus services to Guangzhou, Shenzhen and other destinations in Guangdong Province. Buses depart from several locations on Hong Kong Island and in Kowloon and the New Territories.
Water: There are boats that take you to destinations in Guangdong Province as well as Macau. Departure tax is almost always included in the ticket.
[edit] Getting around
In just 23min the Airport Express train connects Hong Kong International Airport with Hong Kong station in Central, stopping in Kowloon along the way. It's possibly the most convenient airport transport on earth, with the train leaving from inside the arrivals hall. On the way back you can check your bags in at the train stations in Central and Kowloon many hours before heading out to the airport, and go sightseeing with just your hand luggage. There's also a 35min Cityflyer airbus, and cheaper public buses: A21, best for Kowloon, and A11, for Hong Kong Island. Hotel shuttle buses and taxis are another more expensive option. Hong Kong's public transport system is a tourist attraction in its own right: there are old harbour ferries and narrow trams, ultra modern trains and the world's longest escalator. If you can't get from A to B with style in Hong Kong, you're not trying.
Riding: Public transport is cheap, fast, widely used and generally efficient. The bus system is extensive and bewildering but you will need it to explore the south side of Hong Kong Island and the New Territories.
Rail: The north side of Hong Kong Island and most of Kowloon are well-served by Hong Kong's ultra-modern Mass Transit Railway (MTR). Three tunnels link Hong Kong with Kowloon. The Kowloon-Guangzhou (Canton) Railway (KCR) runs from Kowloon to the Chinese border at Lo Wu and is a quick way to get to the New Territories. Light Rail Transit (fast, modern, air-con trams) run in the New Territories, connecting the New Town of Tuen Mun with Yuen Long. Double-decker trams trundle along the northern side of Hong Kong Island.
Water: Hong Kong's ferries are usually faster and cheaper than buses and trams. They are also fun, and the harbour views are stunning when the weather cooperates. Hoverferries are about twice as fast as conventional boats.
Road: Metered taxis are red with silver tops (and green with white tops in the New Territories). They're inexpensive compared to other big-city cabs, but the MTR can often be better value and quicker. They don't pick up or put down at bus stops.
Road: Car rental is available but don't even contemplate driving in Hong Kong. The complex highway system, clogged roads and devilish parking will make it an experience more stressful than it's worth. If you're determined to navigate under your own steam, hire a car with a driver.
Riding: Cycling in Kowloon or Central would be suicidal, but in quiet areas of the islands or the New Territories a bike can be quite a nice way of getting around in a recreational way. Most bike hire kiosks run out of bikes early on the weekend if the weather is nice.
Walking: No visitor to Hong Kong should miss the longest escalator in the world, the Central-Mid-Levels Escalator and Walkway System. It consists of three moving walkways and 20 elevated walkways that can be reversed; they run down in the morning and up the rest of the day and evening to handle commuter traffic flow.
Rail: Hong Kong Island's double-decker trams aren't fast, but if you're not in a hurry, they're a cheap and fantastically fun way of experiencing 'old' Hong Kong. Try to get a seat at the front window upstairs for a first-class view. Services operate at regular intervals throughout the day and night.