Istanbul

From MyVacationsTo

Istanbul (Turkish: İstanbul, Greek: Κωνσταντινούπολη) [1] is Turkey's most populous city, and its cultural and financial center. Located on both sides of the Bosphorus, the narrow strait between the Black Sea and the Marmara Sea, Istanbul truly bridges Asia and Europe both literally and figuratively. Istanbul's population is variously estimated between 11 and 17 million people, making it also one of the largest cities in Europe.

Contents 1 Understand 1.1 History 1.2 Orientation 2 Get in 2.1 By plane 2.2 By train 2.3 By bus 2.4 By boat 3 Get around 3.1 By car 3.2 By taxi 3.3 By shared taxi 3.4 By bus 3.5 By boat 3.6 By metro 3.7 By tram 4 See 4.1 The European Side 4.2 The Asian (Anatolian) Side 5 Do 5.1 Hamams 5.2 Walking tours 6 Learn 7 Work 8 Buy 9 Eat 9.1 Budget 9.2 Mid-range 9.3 Splurge 10 Drink 10.1 Cafes 11 Sleep 11.1 Budget 11.2 Mid range 11.3 Splurge 12 Contact 12.1 Internet 13 Stay safe 14 Stay healthy 15 Cope 16 Get out

[edit] Understand

Founded by Constantine the Great in 324 CE on the site of ancient Byzantium (going back to 650 BC), Istanbul was the capital, successively, of the Eastern Roman Empire (324-476), the Byzantine Empire (476-1453) and the Ottoman Empire (1453-1922) - this almost unrivalled heritage, as well as its dynamic modern existence, makes Istanbul a fantastic destination for many travellers.

[edit] History

Expanding the ancient Greek colony of Byzantium by the order of the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great, the imperial city of Constantinople was for nearly a thousand years the last remaining outpost of the Roman (later termed Eastern Roman or Byzantine) Empire before finally falling to the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror in May 29th, 1453, an event often taken to mark the end of the Middle Age. It was the nerve center for military campaigns that were to enlarge the Ottoman Empire dramatically. By the mid 1500's, Istanbul, with a population of almost half a million, was a major cultural, political, and commercial center. Ottoman rule continued until it was defeated in WWI and Istanbul was occupied by the allies. When the Republic of Turkey was born in 1923 after the War of Independence, Kemal Ataturk moved the capital to the city of Ankara. But Istanbul has continued to expand dramatically; today its population is approximately 13 million and increases at an estimated 700,000 immigrants per year. Industry has expanded even as tourism has grown. It continues to be a city that creates its own history at the intersection where both Continents meet.

[edit] Orientation

Istanbul is divided in three by the north-south Bosphorus Strait (Istanbul Bogazi), the dividing line between Europe and Asia, the estuary of the Golden Horn (Haliç) bisecting the western part and the Sea of Marmara (Marmara Denizi) forming a boundary to the south. Most sights are concentrated in the old city on the peninsula of Sultanahmet, to the west of the Bosphorus between the Horn and the Sea. Across the Horn to the north are Galata, Beyoğlu and Taksim, the heart of modern Istanbul, while Üsküdar is the major district on the comparatively less-visited Anatolian side of the city. The Black Sea forms the northern boundary of Istanbul.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Planes arrive at Istanbul Atatürk Airport [2] (IST), 20 km west of the city centre. From the airport, there are various options for getting into Istanbul: you can take a taxi (about $20 which equals approx. 30 Turkish Lira), the express bus service (run by the local airport service called "HAVAS", half-hourly, about $5 to Taksim), or by metro to Aksaray and a tram on to Kabataş, which also passes through Sultanahmet, Eminönu and Tophane, among others for 1.3-2.6 YTL (0.88-1.74$).

• See also #By_tram

Note that food and drinks at the airport may cost up to five times more than in the city proper. If you are travelling on a budget and plan to spend some time at the airport, it may be wise to take your own meals from town instead of buying them there.

A smaller airport is the Sabiha Gökçen International Airport (SAW) [3], located in the Anatolian side of the city. Mostly charter flights as well as European low cost carriers operate from here. A "HAVAS" bus connects this airport with Taksim in the city center for about £3.50 or 7$ (6 € ~ 9.5 Lıra).

[edit] By train

International trains from across Europe arrive at the station in Sirkeci, close to Sultanahmet. Asian trains arrive at Haydarpasa station. To get between the two, catch a ferry across the Bosphorus (see Get around). Marmaray, the Rail Tube Tunnel and Commuter Rail Mass Transit System is being built, and is being projected as one of the most challenging infrastructure projects in Turkey.

International Trains: There are daily overnight trains to Sofia (Bulgaria) - continuing to Belgrade (Serbia) and Budapest (Hungary) - as well as Bucarest (Romania). There are also weekly trains to Aleppo (Syria) and Teheran (Iran) from Haydarpasa station. The train to Theran drives on wednesday, it is also a good way to drive in the eastern part of Turkey.

Schedule and price list of railway trips can be gathered from TCDD (Turkish Republic State Railways)

[edit] By bus

Buses and coaches terminate at the colossal Esenler Otogar, about 10 km east of the city center, located on the European side. Courtesy minibuses or taxis will easily get you into the center. The metro also stops at the Otogar.

"Harem" is the major hub for the buses on the Anatolian (Asian) side, which can be reached easily from the European side with a Ferryboat.

[edit] By boat

International ferries, carrying tourist groups from outside Turkey stop at Karakoy Port. The port is ideally located close to Sultanahmet and Taksim.

[edit] Get around

[edit] By car

Traffic in Istanbul can be manic, expect a stressful drive. The city curently holds more than 1,500,000 automobiles and there is a strong demand for building of new or alternate highways.

If you've arrived in Istanbul by car, and you're not keen on the routes, it's better to park your car in a safe place and take the public transportation to get around.

The city, lying on two different continents and seperated by the Bosphorus, connects with two bridges. The bridge on the south, closer to the Marmara Sea, is called the "Bosphorus Bridge". The bridge closer to the Black Sea is named "Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge" and is longer than the first one. Both bridges have tolls, since you have to pay a certain fee to cross to the Anatolian side.

After the regulation in 2006, the Bosphorus Bridge does not carry cash tolls, and the payment is made via electronic cards either manually (KGS) or automatically (OGS) by a card holder located in front of the cars. Drivers who do not hold any of these two cards must take the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge.

During the week days, drivers should be aware of the traffic jam on the highways towards both of the bridges, since the majority of public live on the Anatolian side but work on the European side.

There is a great lack of autoparks in Istanbul, and the current ones are quite expensive.

Drivers unfamiliar with the city should also be aware that street signs are comparatively rare.

[edit] By taxi

Taxis are an easy and cheap way to get around. Start off rate is YTL 1,5 (€ 0,75) and then YTL 0,1 (€ 0,05) for each 1/10 km afterwards. A one-way travel from Taksim to Sultanahmet costs approximately 7-10 YTL. Tipping is generally unnecessary.

Beware riding a taxi other than "yellow-coloured" since the other coloured taxis are of different cities and have a different rating system.

Taxis have a fixed rate; the night rate is 50 % more expensive than during the daytime. The night rate starts at midnight and lasts until 6AM. If you are riding during the day, makes sure the fare begins at 1.73 YTL, the day rate, and not 2.55 YTL, the night one.

[edit] By shared taxi

Dolmuş (Turkish: "it's full") is a shared taxi, travelling on a fixed route, which costs more than a city autobus but less than a normal taxi. They can carry up to 8 passengers. They are easy to recognize, because they also have the yellow painting as taxis and carry a Dolmus sign on its top. They will only start driving when all eight places are filled, which is also where the name derives from.

The main and most important routes for Dolmuses are :

• Taksim - Eminonu (Taksim stop, near the Ataturk Cultural Center, in Taksim square)
• Taksim - Kadiköy
• Taksim - Aksaray (Taksim stop, Tarlabasi Avenue, close to Taksim square)
• Kadikoy - Bostanci (Bostanci stop, in front of the Bostanci ferry port)
• Taksim - Tesvikiye (Taksim stop, in front of Patisserie Gezi, in Taksim square)
• Besiktas - Nisantasi (Besiktas stop, in front of the Besiktas - Uskudar ferry port)

If you want the driver to make a stop, you can say İnecek var.(EE-neh-djek war!) (Someone's getting out.) or Müsait yerde.(mU-sa-EEt yer-deh.) (At a convenient spot.).

[edit] By bus

• IETT [4]

There are two types of public transportation bus systems in Istanbul, one which is run by the municipality and the other by private sector. However, these two type of buses share the same route and accept the same tickets. Private type of buses, accept money as well.

You can take a bus to almost everywhere in Istanbul. One ticket costs approximately €0.80 (1.30 YTL in January 2006). If you stay longer, you may wish to buy an Akbil, which will save time and money on public transport.

As a relatively quick tourist, you will end up using the T4 bus the most. It connects Sultanahmet to Taksim Square (and so to Beyoglu and Istiklal Caddesi, the nightspots). The last bus from Taksim runs at about 11.30pm, though that's not fixed.

• see also on AKBIL in the tram writeup

[edit] By boat

Unique Istanbul liners, sea-buses, or mid-sized private ferries travel between the European and Asian sides of the city. The crossing takes about 20 minutes and costs 1,30 Yeni Türk Lirasi (New Turkish Lira), and gives great views of the Bosphorous. Be aware that sometimes the ferry when arriving at a dock can bounce off the pier accidentally, even on calm days. This can cause people to fall over quite dramatically if they are standing up, so it is advisable to remain seated until the ferry has come to an absolute stop.

Istanbul liners[5] travel on the following routes

• Karakoy-Haydarpasa-Kadikoy
• Kadıkoy-Eminonu
• Uskudar-Eminonu
• Uskudar-Karakoy-Eminonu-Eyup (The Golden Horn Route)
• Kadıkoy-Besiktas
• Kabatas-Uskudar-Harem
• Istinye-Emirgan-Kanlica-Anadolu Hisari-Kandilli-Bebek-Arnavutkoy-Cengelkoy (The Whole Bosphorus Route)
• Anadolu Kavagi-Rumeli Kavagi-Sariyer
• Eminonu-Kavaklar (Special Bosphorus Tour-Recommended For Tourists)
• Sirkeci-Adalar-Yalova-Cinarcik (The Princess Islands Route)

Furthermore, the sea-buses follow the same (or more) routes, please visit the link above for extra information.

Four main private ferry routes for travelling between Asia and Europe sides are :

• Besiktas - Uskudar
• Kabatas - Uskudar (close to tram and funicular system in Kabatas)
• Eminonu - Uskudar (close to tram in Eminonu)
• Eminonu - Kadikoy (close to tram in Eminonu)

Very useful are the fast ferryboats (travelling at 55 kilometres) running from several points, such as the Yenikapi - Yalova one, that allows you (with a connecting bus in Yalova) to be in Bursa centre in less than three hours. Prices are marginally higher and the gain in time is considerable, though the view is not as nice.

• see also on AKBIL in the tram writeup

[edit] By metro

Istanbul's first underground system lies back to 19th century, when the funicular subway "Tunel" was constructed to operate from Karakoy to Istıklal Street in 1875. The distance travelled was 573 metres.

In 1990's, a modern tram line was constructed in the European side of the city, and now it's being extended to the inner parts of the city, as well as to the Anatolian side with a sea-tunnel named "Marmaray" crossing below the Bosphorus.

Istanbul's metro consists of two lines, the northern line is currently just a short stub connecting Taksim to 4.Levent. There is also a funicular system connecting Taksim to Kabatas where you can get on ferries and cross to the Anatolian side. The southern line is most useful for visitors, connecting Aksaray (with its connections to the tram line) to Ataturk Airport, via the Otogar.

• see also on AKBIL in the tram writeup

[edit] By tram

• Istanbul Metro & Tram [6]

A fast tram was put in service in 1992 on standard gauge track with modern cars, connecting Sirkeci with Topkapi. The line was extended on one end from Topkapi to Zeytinburnu in March 1994 and, on the other end from Sirkeci to Eminönü in April 1996. On January 30, 2005 it was extended from Sirkeci to Kabataş crossing Golden Horn after 44 years again. The line has 24 stations on a length of 14 km. 55 vehicles built by ABB run on the line. An entire trip takes 42 minutes. The daily transport capacity is 155,000 passengers.

(Hızlı Tramway stations are: Zeytinburnu, Mithatpaşa, Akşemsettin, Seyitnizam, Merkezefendi, Cevizlibağ, Topkapı, Pazartekke, Çapa, Fındıkzade, Haseki, Yusufpaşa, Aksaray, Laleli (Üniversite), Beyazıt (Kapalıçarşı), Çemberlitaş, Sultanahmet, Gülhane, Sirkeci, Eminönü (ferryboats), Karaköy, Tophane, Fındıklı, Kabataş)

Between Taksim and Kabatas, there is a recently opened (June 2006) modern underground funicular to connect this line to metro in Taksim.

It is connected to the southern metro line (for the Otogar and Ataturk Airport) at Aksaray station, though the metro and tram lines are a short walk from each other.

Buying an AKBIL is a good idea if you are in Istanbul for more than a day or two, and intend to use any public transport. Its like a little key, but think of it as a pass that gives you access to buses, trams, metro and even local ferries. The great part for travellers is that you can buy one and buzz it as many times as there are passengers. Ticket fares across buses trams and metros are standard (i.e not dependent on how far you go), so you just buzz the Akbil when you get on to the bus or enter the tram/metro platform. You can buy this at booths marked Akbil at Eminonu (just at the start of the Galata Bridge), amongst other places. An Akbil allows free transfer as well as loading it with daily/weekly/two weekly and monthly tickets.

[edit] See

[edit] The European Side

There are many historical places in istanbul.

• Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya), Sultanahmet Square (by tram: Sultanahmet), 0212 5221750. Tu-Su 9:00AM-7:30PM. Dating from the sixth century, originally a basilica constructed for the Byzantine Emperor Justinian. A masterwork of Byzantine engineering, the huge 30 m diameter dome covers what was for over 1000 years the largest enclosed space in the world. The basilica was looted in 1204 during the fourth Crusade, and became a mosque in the 15th century when the minarets were added. It was turned into a museum in 1930's. Don't miss the excellent mosaics, including those in the gallery, reached by a stone ramp to the left of the entrance. Entry 10 Lira. Also, the inside is undergoing a major refurb and there is a huge amount of scaffolding in a gigantic tower going up to the top of the dome (whilst this DID give photos some sense of scale it kind of ruined it a bit). (no concessions, no cards accepted).

• Topkapi Palace (Topkapi Sarayi), Bab-i Hümayün Caddesi (by tram: Gülhane/Sultanahmet), 0212 5120480. M,W-Su 9:00AM-5:00PM. The imperial enclave of the Ottoman emperors for three centuries. Lavishly decorated, with four courts of increasing grandeur. In the second court in the entrance to the Harem (admission extra, only by joining a guided tour) and the State Treasury, housing a weaponry display. The third court has the Imperial Treasury. The views from the Fourth Court over the Bosphorus are spectacular. approx $10 (no concessions, cards accepted, Harem and Imperial Treasury extra).

• Sultanahmet Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii, aka Blue Mosque), At Meydam Sokak 17, Sultanahmet (by tram: Sultanahmet), 0212 5181319. May-Oct 9:00AM-9:00PM, Nov-Apr:9:00AM-7:00PM. With its six minarets and sweeping architecture the Sultanahmet or 'Blue' Mosque impresses from the outside. Unlike Haghia Sophia, this is still a working mosque, entry is through the courtyard on the SW side. No shorts or bare shoulders (shawls are provided) and you will need to remove your footwear. Free.

• Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnici). Yerebatan Cad., Sultanahmet. It doesn't sound like much, but this giant underground cistern built by Justinian in 532 to provide water to the city in cases of siege, and later consacrated as a basilica, is one of the most fascinating places to visit in Istanbul. A wooden walkway winds between the pillars, and lights and piped music add to the eerie atmosphere. Entry 10 Lira (no concessions).

• Hippodrome, adjacent to the Basilica Cistern, Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. This was the center of Roman and Byzantine Constantinople, and is a great place to begin one's tour and to people watch. The obelisks and sculptures have been collected here since Theodosius' time in the fourth century.

• Galata Whirling Dervish Hall (Galata Mevlevihanesi). Galipdede Caddesi (near Tünel's Galata station). A dancing hall of the mystical Mevlevi order, shut down in 1925 along with all other 'reactionary' movements in Turkey. Today the building houses the Museum of Divan Literature, but the best time to come Sundays between 3 to 5 pm when sema dervish ceremonies are staged. (Buy tickets in advance, as space is limited.) Also check out the small graveyard next door, where the carved fez perched upon the gravestone indicates the occupant's rank in the dervish hierarchy.

• Ortakoy A shore line of the bosphorus beside the Ortakoy mosque. Filled with nice cafes and a perfect view crowded and fun.

• The Museum of Archeology A must see! One of the best, including a great collection of Sumerian tablets!Close to Sultanahmet.

• Museum of Modern Art At Karakoy. A nice organized museum with contemporary installations.İncluding a cafe with a top notch menu and view.

• Dolmabahce Palace See the Ottoman Palace centered close to Taksim at the Dolmabahce shore. Build on 110.000 meter square ground with 285 rooms and 43 halls where the Ottoman empire was administered in the last 150 years. Guided tours in major spoken languages available.

• Galata Tower Ride an elevator to the top, then walk the parapet for a 360 degree view of Istanbul, including the entire Sultanahmet peninsula: crowned by Topkapi Palance, the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. A beautiful spot for using up a lot of film!

• Chora Church, a 1000 year old Byzantine church, with precious mosaic frescoes and a captivating mood inside. The early church frescoes had been covered with plaster for nearly 500 years, as the building had been converted to a mosque, but were uncovered in the mid-twentieth century and have been partially restored.

[edit] The Asian (Anatolian) Side

• Beylerbeyi Palace Lying under the legs of the Bosphorus Bridge, the palace was built between 1861-1865 by Sultan Abdulaziz. Guided tours in major spoken languages available.

• Camlica Hill is one of the highest hills of Istanbul (268 metres high) and almost major broadcasting antennas are located on this hill, since the hill dominates a great part of the city. On the top of the hill, a public park with cafes remind the visitors of an Ottoman atmosphere.

• The Princes' Islands lies on the southeast of Istanbul, and consists of 8 islands, Buyukada being the largest of them all. Buyukada is also the highest island among the others; its peak reaches to 202 mt (Yucetepe) where the ruins of a monastry remains.

The rest of the islands are; Heybeliada, Burgazada, Kinaliada, Yassiada, Sivriada, Tavsan Adasi and Yassiada. Buyukada and Heybeliada both have a limited range of hotels, some of which serve in a boutique style, preferred by many tourists.

[edit] Do

[edit] Hamams

A visit to a hamam (Turkish bath) is an essential part of any trip to Istanbul and one of the things you'll like to repeat before leave.

• Suleymaniye Bath, +90 212 520 34 10, [7]. Sultan Suleyman had this Hamam built by the famous Architect Sinan in 1550. Architect Sinan build this hamam for himself. He used this hamam for washing. Suleymaniye hamam is the only mixed hamam in Istanbul. There are no different sections for each sex, thus the families may comfortably enjoy this hamam together. Hamam also has two ways free shuttle services for the hotel guests if the booking comes through their reception. Entry 31.50 euro.

• Cağaloğlu Bath, +90 212 522 24 24, [8]. The Cağaloğlu hamam was constructed in 1741 and is the last hamam to be built after a long period during the Ottoman Empire. It was constructed in İstanbul Eminönü. It has separated sections. Popular and normally visited by tourists. Entry 20 euro.

• Cemberlitas Bath, +90 212 511 25 35, [info@cemberlitashamami.com.tr]. The Cemberlitas Bath is located on Cemberlitas Square in the midst of some of Istanbul's greatest monuments. It was also built by Architect Sinan in 1584. It has 2 sections, female and male. Entry 15 euro. (28 YTL for self-service, 40 for Turkish massage, 68 for Turkish massage and oil massage)

[edit] Walking tours

Walk! Some suggestions for a couple of "walks". But there are many to be made on your own, so do.

Museums and such: Haghia Sophia, then on to the Topkapı museum (these two should take care of three to five hours), preferably along the road in the back of the Haghia Sophia, where there are some nicely restored houses. Then on to the Blue Mosque and the square with the obelisks on it (At Meydani). Along its side is the very good Museum of Islam Art. Descend slightly and find the Small Haghia Sophia with its nice garden (it was under restoration, but you probably can get in). Then uphill to the Sokollu Mehmet mosque complex: top notch tiles inside.

Take a tram or walk to Eminönü (where the boats leave for trips to Asia or up the Bosphorus). Visit the New Mosque in the back of it, then the Egyptian Bazaar next to it, and going further in that direction, locate the Rüstem Pasha mosque with its excellent tiles. It's on a raised platform near an old clothes market, you may have to ask directions. Then take a cab or find a bus to Eyüp mosque complex, a mile or three up the Golden Horn. Visit this Eyüp complex at your leisure (the mosque is not particular, the court is, and the milling of believers, with many boys-to-be-circumcised amongst it; a Friday might be a good day to do this). Than, if you have the stamina, it might be nice to walk back to .. well, maybe all the way (five miles or so), but taking a route along part of the city wall to first the famous Kariye Church with its mosaics, then on to Selimiye Mosque with its great view on the Golden Horn (and a fine mosque by itself), then the Fatih Mosque (passing through some very religious and lively neighbourhoods), then on to the well-restored Sehzade mosque, and next to Süleymaniye (don't forget to enjoy the view from the Golden Horn side). If you have some energy left you might go on to the University complex, and by then you are very close to the Beyazit mosque. A book market (it’s small) is behind this good, unexceptional (nice courtyard though) mosque.

Once again go to Eminönü, but this time take the boat (those large ferries) to Üsküdar. You will arrive with a fine mosque in front, another one four hundred meters off to the right, slightly inland behind a traffic roundabout, a third, very small, at the sea front,. See the market stretching inland, walk about and don't forget to walk along the shore, maybe eating a fish meal in one of the bobbing boats along it. This is a good visit for late afternoon, early evening, fleeing the city. You will be joined by thousands of people going home from "town" but the way back will be on a near-empty ferry. The frequency of ferries will go down in the evening, so make sure there is a connection back

Go to the railroad station and find a Sirkeci-Halkali suburban train, and get out at (from memory, Yenikapi station). You will be quite close to Yedikule, a nice fortress, and will have fine views of the city walls from that. The trains leave every 15 minutes or so, the ride is peculiar (the material is bad, but if you are in luck every second stop another salesman will enter and try selling his wares, its fun. The ride is twenty minutes, half an hour. You may back from Yedikule into the city, just drifting. This is not a "must", but it can be great fun.

You will have missed the covered bazaar in all this. That is because you will get there anyhow. If you go to Beyazit and the book market you are almost at two of its many entrances. Try and find the Nuruosmaniye Mosque and its complex at the other side, its worth it. And after having explored the covered part, take a relaxing walk downhill, into the general direction of Eminönü, where it is "uncovered bazaar" all the way. And then cross the Galata bridge to see some things on the Northern side (for instance take the "tünel" teleferik ride up much of the hill (entrance close to the opposite side of Galata bridge, ask around), then continue to Taksim. Shops are of the international variety.

[edit] Learn

Many foreigners visiting or living in Istanbul decide to study Turkish formally in a language school. The two most respected Turkish language schools are Dilmer in Gümüşsuyu [9] or Ankara University affiliated Tömer [10].

Boğaziçi University[11] runs a summer long intensive Turkish language course for all levels.

Both Boğaziçi University and Bilgi University[12] have well established Study Abroad programs in English for foreigners.

[edit] Work

There is always a high demand for qualified ESOL/EFL teachers in Istanbul. Many teachers work with private instructional companies. Others contract out on a freelance basis.

[edit] Buy

The currency used in Istanbul is the New Turkish Lira (YTL) though the euro is also accepted at places frequented by tourists. Fortunately, currency exchanges and banks are plentiful in Istanbul and offer extremely competitive exchange rates with no commission. If you are planning to visit Istanbul, bring hard foreign currency and exchange them after you arrive, preferrably at a bank or a currency exchange. Exchange only what you need as you will find difficulty exchanging your leftover YTL back to foreign currency after you leave the country. Alternatively, withdraw money from ATMs whenever you need cash.

Shops may be closed on Sundays. Most major shopping malls have security checkpoints you usually see in airports and museums prior to entry.

• Grand Bazaar (Kapali Carsi). Istanbul's grand old bazaar with an estimated 4400 shops lined along covered walkways. It is said to be the world's oldest shopping mall, covers several blocks and features a labrynth of side streets to keep you lost for the better part of a day. The shops are organized around their wares, e.g. the silver jewlers are clustered together, the carpet shops are clustered elsewhere and the shoe shops are bunched together somewhere else. Parts of it now are rather touristy and you're likely to pay a little more for your purchase than elsewhere but with the vast selection you'll find what you're looking for and it's one of Istanbul's character pieces.

Polisajci Brothers Antique Show, 37-39 Yaglikcilar Sokak, Ic Cebeci Han, tel: +90 212 5261831 You will find Ottoman and other antique metalware - copper bowls, jugs, pots and the like - once used in hammams and kitchens.

Dervis, 33-35 Keseciler Sokak, tel: +90 212 5144525 [13] Turko-Californian spa shop with raw silk and cotten clothing made to last a long time.

Chalabi, 6 Sandal Bedesten Sokak, tel: +90 212 5228171 Grand Bazaars's oldest family antiques dealer offers Ottoman silver, furniture and jewelry from old Ottoman families, and other oriental treasures.

• Turkish Delight or Lokum (as the locals call it) is also a good buy since you're in Turkey. It is advisable to buy it fresh rather than in pre-packaged boxes and to get a variety of flavours rather than the stereotypical rose-water or lemon flavours bought abroad. Pistachio in particular is very good. The best place to buy lokum in Istanbul is from a store. Istiklal Caddesi in particular features a number of stores that sell Turkish sweets by the kilogram including lokum and helvah.
• Turkish Tea (çay, CHAI) is the national drink, brewed from leaves grown on the steep, verdant mountain slopes of Turkey's eastern Black Sea coast. Traditionally, Turkish tea is brewed samovar-style, with a small pot of very strong tea sitting on a larger vessel of boiling water. Pour a small amount of strong tea into a little tulip-shaped glass and cut it to the desired strength with hot water. Turks usually add cube sugar (never milk or lemon, although you can often get milk or lemon if you ask.) Having fresh, hot tea always available everywhere is one of life's splendid little luxuries in Turkey. Elma Çay: apple tea, like hot apple juice (EHL-mah chah-yee) is the flavor of preference.
• Rugs & Kilims

Mevlana Rug Store, Torun sok. 1, Sultanahmet, Istanbul tel: +90 212 5171260 fax:+90 212 5177476 [14] Mevlana Rug store is the only store which is recommended by The New York Times.

Bazaar 55 Rug House, Akbiyik Cad. 55, Sultanahmet, Istanbul tel:+90 212 6382289 [15] The carpet shop known to be most trust-worthy.

Mehmet Cetinkaya Gallery, Kucuk Ayasofya Caddesi, 7 Tavukhane Sokak, tel: +90 212 5176808 [16] glorious museum-quality textiles, a feast for the eyes.

• Chalcedony Turkey's only indigenous precious stone is a great buy within Istanbul's many jewelry shops.

Chalcedony, 2 Ayasofya Caferiye Sokak, tel: +90 212 5276376 [17] one stop shop for raw rocks, smooth stones and finished jewelry of the pale-blue, semiprecious chalcedony.

• Off the Beaten Path places that offer the best at what they do but are not on any of the traditional tourist paths

ArkeoPera, Yenicarsi Caddesi, 16/A Petek Han, Galatasaray, tel: +90 212 2930378 [18] Best antiquarian bookshop in Turkey, owner knows every Turkish excavation site first hand.

Gonul Paksoy, 6/A Atiye Sokak, Tesvikiye, tel: +90 212 2360209 peerless one-of-a-kind dresses made for royalty from refined, antique Ottoman-era cloth.

Isnik Foundation, 7 Oksuz Cocuk Sokak, Kurucesme, tel: +90 212 2873243 [19] offers neo-Isnik pottery after recreating original formulas from original Isnik kilns, which functioned between 1450 and 1650.

Sedef Mum, 50 Irmak Caddesi, Dolapdere, tel: +90 212 2535793 artisans of the time honored art of candlemaking, intricately sculpted and aromatic wares make very portable gifts.

[edit] Eat

[edit] Budget

• Meshur Köfteci (Selim Usta): near the Sultanahmet tram stop (150 meters downhill) is the three floor restaurant. Meshur means famous, and they rightly claim that title. Their specialty is meatballs (in a slightly different form, called köfte). Take it with a piyaz (beans salad) and ayran. Service is very swift and attentive, prices ordinary.
• Simit Sarayi: a kind of quick-restaurant chain. You can buy tasty filled pastry here.
• Doner is always a good option for having fast and cheap food. The entrance to Istiklal Street contains dozens of small doner restaurants and they serve almost 24 hours.

[edit] Mid-range

• Nevizade: Located behind Istiklal boulevard, you can find it by entering Çiçek Pasajı. It's one of the most famous streets in Istiklal boulevard. It's narrow, and is mostly known for it's meyhane style restaurants, where lively conversation is the main dish on every table, next to fish and Rakı that is.

• Set Kebap at Nispetiye Cad. No:13 in Levent has a wonderful meze table and delicious Adana Kebab. The staff speaks very little English but are most anxious to be helpful.

• Kosebasi Kebap A modern franchise kebab take-away.

• Hai Sushi sushi restaurant.

• Sosa Fairly priced salads and wraps among others.

• Leb-i Derya a nice cafe-restaurant with a splendid view of the Bosphorus and the Topkapi Palace in Tunel, Beyoglu

• Zencefil a vegeterian cafe serving healthy and home-style dishes in Beyoglu

[edit] Splurge

• Asitane Restaurant Our Asitane restaurant is renowned for its fine Ottoman cuisine based on authentic recipes retrieved by a dedicated staff from palace archives.Our menu features dishes originally prepared for the sumptous celebration feast given for Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent's sons in 1539.[20].Tel 90(0212)635 79 97

• Balikci Yuksel Great sea food for around 50 USD per person. They can give great advise on what is the best fish for the season and other dishes in general. Tel 90 (212) 663 97 42
• The Four Seasons Hotel does a spectacular, but pricy, Sunday Brunch featuring a range of Turkish and international dishes. (January 2005 price - 70 YTL, 11.30am - 3pm). [21], T: 90 (212) 638 82 00, Tevkifhane Sokak No. 1, Sultanahmet-Eminönü.

• Park Fora [22] Great sea food, located in Kuruçeşme park right on the edge of the sea, it has a very nice view of the Bosphorus and Bosphorus Bridge.

The waiters know English. Prices range from 50 - 150 ytl per person.

• Beyti Restaurant [23] Simply, one of the best restaurants in Istanbul, favoured by diners thanks to its delicious meat in the 45's at Küçükçekmece, in a pleasent environment, is like a monument of tradition remembered by people at every age. It has an honourable and respectable level on Turkish and international press. (Closed on Mondays) Prices range from 50 - 150 ytl per person.

[edit] Drink

• Beyoğlu is notoriously known for its night life; it's full of café's and bars with live music. People from all classes and ethnicities can be found here.

• Nişantaşı is the place for young entrepeneurs and artists, the prices are of drinks are higher than Taksim.

Reassürans Pasajı houses many bars and cafés and is a good place for bar hopping on a saturday night. Taps[24] is a bar, restaurant and brewery in one. The crowd is the general Nişantaşı crowd, it also attracts a lot of [expatriates].

[edit] Cafes

• Sark Kahvesi'. Yaglikcilar Caddesi 134 (in the Grand Bazaar). [25]. The most famous cafe in the market and a time warp into days gone by, full of traders playing backgammon. Turkish coffee NTL 1,5.

• Melekler Kahvesi Melekler Kahvesi which is a backstreet cafe is located in Taksim. Its address is Ayhan Işık Sk No:36 Taksim, and phone number is 212 251 31 01. It is a very popular place among young people. You can play games such as Scrabble and you can drink Turkish coffee (6 YTL). After drinking Turkish coffee fortunetellers will look the coffee grounds and tell your future for free.

[edit] Sleep

• Harbiye is the nicest place to stay because it is in the main center of the new city on the European side, contains a variety of international standard aparts, hotels, apartments for rent and moderate hotels for budget travellers. Nişantaşı and Taxim is 5 min. from Harbiye so you can stay in Harbiye and benefit from all activities in Nişantaşı and Taxim.

• Taksim is the main center of the new city on the European side, mainly the locals and tourists are going for shopping and entertainment, and contains a variety of international standard bars, clubs for enternatinment and moderate hotels for budget travellers.

• Sultanahmet the main center for the old city the European side. It has a high number of stray cats, so in some parts of Sultanahmet in March-April you may be rocked to sleep by a lively feline chorus. Your sleep may also get interrupted by the morning call to prayer emanating loudly from the Blue Mosque.

[edit] Budget

• Hostel Orient - Yeni Akbiyik Cad 13. Tel: +90 212 517 9493 (fax: +90 212 518 3894; info@orienthostel.com) [26]. Okay hostel in a good location in Sultanahmet. Staff pretty unfriendly, but Istanbul will make you forget all that. Cafe/bar upstairs, rooftop lounge area overlooking the Golden Horn, Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, and the oldest mosque in Istanbul (it's small and has one minaret--just go down the street towards Topkapi). Pretty cheap rooms, but the travel agency downstairs is overpriced, as is the beer in the bar. Bellydancers two or three nights per week in the basement bar, but expect competition for her affections from older local businessmen. Also expect terrible euro-techno in many of Istanbul's bars and nightclub.

• Bahaus Guesthouse in Sultanahmet. Bayram Fırın Sokağı not far from the Orient hostel. Staff friendly. Dorm room around U$ 10. Breakfast extra. Rooftop bar beer YTL 3,5. Free Internet on old computers (Wındows 98) Connection Ok. Web Link

• Mavi Guesthouse in Sultanahmet. staff friendly, breakfast included, dorms very cheap. close to the four seasons hotel and many other backpackers and within 2 mins slow walk of the blue mosque and Aya Sofia. the staff also organised me a hired mini-bus trip back to the aiport which was roughly 1/3 the price of a taxi (12 lira) and picked me up outside the guesthouse. internet (free wıth wıreless LAN Laptop), small (cosy) tv room etc

• Hostel World House not in Sultanahmet, but 2 mınutes walk from Istiklal-Street in Beyoğlu.Galipdede Cad. no 117. Tel: +90 212 293 55 20, [27]. Nice and friendly new hostel, popular with long-term stayers. Dorm rooms 10€/11€, free Internet...

• Star Holiday Hotel in Sultanahmet. Staff is really friendly, breakfast on a nice terrace (right in front of the blue mosque!) is included! [28], Davnyolu Cad. No 10.

[edit] Mid range

• Kariye Hotel [29] Kariye Camii Sokak.No:18EdirnekapiTel: +90 212 534 8414 pbx.-Fax:+90 212 521 6631,info@kariyeotel.com Next door world famous Church of the Chora,The hotel is a tastefully restored 19th century mansion.It is a tranquil home away from home to escape the hustle and bustle of downtown Istanbul while remaining close to the sights.

• Sultanhan Hotel [30]Piyerloti cad.No:15/17 Sultanhamet, This five-floor hotel features 40 guestrooms, all of which have Ottoman-style decor with patterned fabrics and chestnut furnishings. All are equipped with Internet connections, satellite television and minibars.

• Ottoman Hotel Imperial [31]Caferiye Sokak No:6/1 Sultanhamet. +90 212 513 61 51 An unbeatable view of Hagia Sophia Museum and Sultanahmet Square and a blend of Ottoman and Istanbul cuisine is what you'll experience at the Ottoman Hotel Imperial. With its exquisitely furnished guest rooms reflecting the Ottoman art, trend-setting restaurants and bars, extensive guest services and in-house amenities, Ottoman Hotel Imperial responds to the needs of the most demanding leisure and business travellers.

• Blue House Hotel (Mavi Ev) [32], tel +90 (212) 638 90 10/11/12/13/14/15/16 - opened July 1997 and located at the heart of old city center, steps away from world famous Blue Mosque

• Empress Zoe [33], Akbiyik Caddesi, Adliye Sok No 10, Sultanahmet, tel 518-2504 - a wonderful little hotel in a quiet street just off Sultanahmet, with spartan but elegant rooms decorated in Turkish style and beautiful views over the Hagia Sophia from the rooftop terrace. All mod cons including bathroom, air-con, safe. Rooms from €50 and suites from €100, including breakfast.

• Ibrahim Pasha [34], Terzihane Sok. No. 5, Adliye Yani, Sultanahmet, is lovely boutique hotel just steps away from the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. The room rates, starting at 125 Euros for a standard, include a full Turkish breakfast in the dining area off the main lobby. The hotel has a rooftop sitting area with direct views of most of the major sites in Sultanahmet - an incomparable vista as the moon rises on a clear evening. The comfortable rooms have all mod-cons, including WiFi. The staff is attentive, courteous and helpful. Highly recommended.

• Istanbul Sweet Home[35] For short/long stays as fully-furnished in an inclusive package covering utilities, cleaning & maintenance service to make you feel like home during your short visit to Istanbul.

• Istanbul Suites[36] +90 212 224 53 10, Harbiye, Ranging from duplex to studio appartments which are all Furnished with modern appliances. It's located in the city centre and is within a 5 minute walking distance to Taksim, nişantaşı and the metro. Possibiliy for short and long term rentals.

[edit] Splurge

• Ciragan Palace Kempinski [37], the best hotel in Istanbul, on the Bosphorus coast just south of the main square of Ortakoy.
• [38], a converted prison in the historic Sultanahmet district. Offers stunning views of the Haghia Sophia, but no pool.

• A'jia Hotel [39], located at the Asian side of the city facing the beautiful Bosphorus. A unique boutique hotel. Do not miss it!

• The Marmara Istanbul Deluxe hotel in the tradition of Europe's finest hotels, The Marmara Istanbul offers outstanding accommodations for the business traveler or for the visitor coming to enjoy Istanbul's pleasures, all from its convenient location in the heart of the city in Taksim Square.

• Hilton [40] Hilton is the first international group of hotels, settled in Turkey in the mid 1950's.

• Hotel Inter Continental [41] Situated in the heart of the city, its fantastic location ensures all rooms have the best views of the city or of the Bosphorus.

• Swiss Hotel - Bosphorus [42] Located on a hill behind the Dolmabahce Palace, the last residence of the Ottoman Sultans. Swissôtel The Bosphorus Istanbul commands panoramic views of the Bosphorus, the Asian coast and the old city of Istanbul.

• Hyatt Regency[43] Just 20 kilometres from Istanbul's Ataturk Airport and five minutes away from the historic landmarks of the Old City, including Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace, the hotel is in a spectacular setting with some rooms overlooking the Bosphorus.

[edit] Contact

[edit] Internet

Cafés with free wireless internet (WiFi):

• Several of the nargile places in Tophane
• Leyla, Cihangir
• Kahvedan, Cihangir
• Most Starbucks and Gloria Jean's Coffee stores throughout the city
• Most cafés and restaurants are in Istiklal Caddesi, Beyoglu

And cheap ones:

• There is one upstairs by the restaurants facing the side of Aya Sofia and behind the entrance to the Basilica in Sultanahmet. Cost 3 lira per hour (2006) high speed connection.

In the recent years, the number of cafes and shopping centers with WiFi Internet access has increased dramatically, most of them still being free. Most Internet cafes have high speed ADSL connections, and they are very inexpensive compared to Europe (about 0.50-1.50 euros per hour).

[edit] Stay safe

Taksim bar/club scams Tourists must be aware of aware of high-drink price scams encountered in so-called night-clubs mostly located in Aksaray, Beyazit and Taksim area. These clubs, usually charge overpriced bills, based on a replica of the original menu.

Also be aware of friendly behaving groups of young men or male-female couples striking up a conversation in the street and inviting you to a "good night-club they know". This has frequently been reported as a prelude to such a scam. The person(s) in on the scam may offer to take you to dinner first, in order to lull your suspicions.

In either of these scams, if you refuse to pay the high prices or try to call the police (dial #155) to file a complaint, the club managers may use physical intimidation to bring the impasse to a close.

A recently encountered variant of this involved an invitation in Taksim to two male tourists (separately, within an hour of one another) to buy the tourist a beer (as they were "guests"). At the club, two attractive ladies, also with beers, joined them. When the time came for the bill, the person inviting the tourist denied having said he would pay for the drinks, and a bill was presented for 1500 Lire; when the tourists in question expressed an inability to pay such a high amount, burly "security" personnel emerged, who the manager explained would accompany the tourist to an ATM machine (presumably to clean out their bank account). In one of the above examples, the tourist escaped by shouting for the police once on the street; in the other, a much lower amount was accepted from the tourist. This points to these scams in Taksim becoming more serious, and likely the involvement of organized crime. Be careful.

Lira/Euro Scam A frequent scam, often in smaller hotels (but it can also happen in a variety of other contexts), is to quote prices in Lira and then later, when payment is due, claim the price was given in Euros. Hotels which reject payment early in a stay and prefer you to "pay when you leave" should raise suspicions. Hotels which operate this scam often offer excellent service and accommodation at a reasonable price and know most guests will conclude as much and pay without complaint.

Women may feel uncomfortable walking around alone in some parts of the city.

[edit] Stay healthy

Similar to many European countries tap water is mostly drinkable, but it may not be healthy depending on where you drink it. Although the tap water itself is clean, many local water tanks are not maintained properly, suggesting one should try to avoid tap water if possible. Locals widely prefer bottled water and the same applies for the restaurants.

Food and drinks are mostly of international standards. Some Turkish foods are known to use a variety of spices which may affect international tourists who may not be accustomed to such ingredients, although most of it is edible for any tongue.

Use common sense when buying certain foods, particularly from street vendors. Delicacies such as "Firin Sutlac" (a kind of rice pudding) can go bad rapidly on a hot day, as can the oysters occasionally for sale on the streets.

[edit] Cope

English is widely-spoken and understood in Istanbul as its profile as a city break destination increases. Nonetheless, it is still common to encounter people who speak only Turkish. In most cases you can get over the problem because Turkish people are friendly and helpful.

[edit] Get out

• Kilyos Located by the Black-sea shore on the European side, Kilyos is an half-hour drive to Taksim under normal circumstances.

The village has more almost a dozen private and public beaches, some of which require membership. Though there are ways of transportation to Kilyos with buses and dolmus, the best way is to use a private car, since the journey will take longer than usual when in summer.

• Sile (Şile) Located by the Black-Sea shore on the Anatolian side, Sile is a 45 mins. drive to Taksim. It is a village, growing rapidly, famous for its fish and special cotton fabric Sile Bezi (cloth of Sile). Similar to Kilyos, Sile also has its own private and public beaches. However, the dangerous sand type of the sea, and tides make it difficult and somewhat dangerous to swim for people who are not expert and cautious. Drowning, some of which resulted in deaths, occur every year.

• The Princes' Islands are a group of islands across the Anatolian side of Istanbul. "Buyukada", the biggest and most famous of them all, has ferry lines to Eminonu (on the European side) and Bostanci (on the Asian side) every day, on various hours.

• Silivri People choose there because of they want to get relax. If you don't want to think anytinhg about the real life you can got there and forget everything. Silivri is a 45 mins drive to Levent. The best way is to use a private car, since the journey will take longer than usual when in summer. In summer people go their summer houses in Silivri and they swim and get fun. If you in Istanbul in the summer you can go there and live there. They built new villages and the villages are spectacular.