Lisbon


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Lisbon (Portuguese: Lisboa) [1] is the capital of Portugal. Known for thrilling nightlife, in the last few years it has become recognized as Europe's gambling centre, due to its two huge casinos.

Contents

[edit] Understand

Like Istanbul, Rome and Seattle, Lisbon is built on seven hills.

The sparkling new Lisboa Ask Me Centre (Pç. do Comércio, 21 0312815, open 09:00 - 20:00 daily) will help you find accommodation and is happy to dispense advice, maps and brochures. Smaller Ask Me Lisboa kiosks are dotted about the Rossio district and airport and their multilingual staff also have maps and brochures.

The Lisboa Card, which can be purchased from tourist information outlets, offers free use of all public transport in the city and free or reduced price tickets to many museums, galleries and tourist attractions. They can be purchased in 24 hour (adult / child: €14.85 / €7.50), 48 hour (€25.50 / €12.75) and 72 hour (€31.00 / €15.50) denominations. They are not very good value unless you plan to visit a lot of museums.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Portugal's largest international air hub is the Aeroporto da Portela (IATA: LIS; Alameda das Comunidades Portuguesas, Tel: 21 841 35 00, Fax: 21 841 36 75, web: http://www.ana-aeroportos.pt) which is linked to the city centre by an Aerobus (line 91) every 20 minutes from 07:00 - 21:00 and bus lines 5, 8, 22, 44, 45, 83.

  • A ticket for the Aerobus is €3,50 and is valid on all public transportation lines for one day.
  • Taxis cost about €10 from the airport to the city centre. Charge is according to the meter, adding €1.20 per item of luggage. As with many cities, watch out for dishonesty and if you think you are being charged significantly more (paying €45 to get into the city but only €6 back to the airport is not unheard of) ask for their number and a receipt, and make it clear you plan to complain. To avoid fraud you can buy a taxi-voucher in the airport (€13 - slightly more than the average real meter price) which is good to go anywhere in the centre, with luggage. A trick to avoid disonest taxi drivers is to catch the taxi outside the departures lounge (first floor).

[edit] By train

There are two big train stations in Lisbon: S. Apolónia and Orient Station

  • CP - Railways

[edit] By car

Lisbon can be accessed from six main highways.

Coming from the south (A2) or east (A6 - the main route from Madrid), there are the two bridges:

The A2 goes all the way to the 25 de Abril bridge, which usually has lots of traffic getting into Lisbon, specially weekday mornings. This is the best option if you want to go to the center of Lisbon or to the west (A5 - Estoril, Cascais, Sintra);

If you branch from the A2 into the A12, you'll get to the Vasco da Gama bridge, the longest bridge in Europe, it usually has less traffic than the older 25 de Abril bridge (but a more expensive toll). This is the best option to go to the eastern/northern section of Lisbon (to the airport and to the Parque das Nações - the former Expo 98 site), and also to take the A1 or A8 going north.

Coming from the north, there is the A1, that connects Lisbon to Santarém, Fátima, Leiria, Coimbra, Aveiro, Oporto. The A1 ends near the airport. There's also the A8, which goes to Torres Vedras, Caldas da Rainha, Alcobaça, Leiria.

From the west, there is the A5, which connects to Estoril, Cascais, and the IC19 that crosses all the suburbs and ends near Sintra.

Lisbon has three ring roads: The 2ª circular, which connects the A1 to the IC19; the CRIL IC17 (still incomplete), which connects the Vasco da Gama bridge with the A1 and A8; and the CREL A9, which connects the A1 with the A8, IC19, A5, and goes all the way to the Estoril coast.

Regarding toll highways - Portugal has a unified electronic toll paying system - it's usually on the one or two left most lanes of the toll booths, marked with a green "V" (Via Verde - "Green Lane"). If you don't subscribe to the system, pay the toll at the manned booths (cash and most debit and credit cards accepted). If you by chance get distracted and go through the Via Verde lane, you have 48 hours to go to a Via Verde office and pay the toll without a fine.

[edit] By bus

All nearby cities and most major cities in Portugal have direct buses to Lisbon. The main bus terminal is at Sete Rios (metro: Jardim Zoológico) Rede expresso is one of the largest inter-city bus companies.

[edit] By boat

You can get a boat to Lisbon from the following stations: Barreiro; Trafaria; Montijo; and Cacilhas. Recommended for excellent sightseeing from the river Tagus to Lisbon.

[edit] By bicycle

Due to the relative proximity of Lisbon's airport to the city centre, it is quite easy to cycle from the airport to the centre, and could be recommended if you arrive for a cycling trip. Cycling in Portugal can be a challenge, though Lisbon offers far easier cycling than what you may find outside of the city. The further you get from Lisbon, however, the easier the cycling gets. You may wish to take advantage of certain regional trains that take bicycles in a separate luggage carriage, allowing you to start your cycling some 50 or 100 kilometers outside of the city.

After leaving the airport and negotiating a roundabout, merge onto the long and straight dual-carriageway Av. Almirante Gago Coutinho (you should be able just to follow the "Centro" ("Downtown") signs.) After merging, the route to Baixa is simple and straight. This street later turns into Av. Almirante Reis, and then Rua de Palma, at the end of which you will be right in Baixa.

Cycling within the city is not easy due to traffic and the surprisingly hilly outlet of Lisbon. There are no bike lanes in town and car drivers are not used to bikes so be very careful. Good spots to cycle are along the EXPO coast, the waterfront between Cais Sodré and Belém. Just outside of Lisbon -you can take a bike on trains or ferries- along the coast from Estoril towards the beautiful beach of Guincho, reach Sintra, Cascais or Caparica.

Bike shops in the centre are rare. You can find a SportZone near Rossio or in Amoreiras shopping mall. Ask there for specialist shops, shop assistants are usually very helpful. For bike the sights and bike rentals you can always check bikeiberia (Phone: +351 96 242 3455 Web: http://bikeiberia.com/) located in Baixa-downtown, next to Cais Sodre and the Praca Comercio square, they are professional, friendly and very helpful on providing tours, bikes&equipment and insider's knowledge.

[edit] Get around

Lisbon's recently refurbished metro system is quick and efficient. Single trip tickets within Zone 1 (which covers most of the city) cost €0.75, although you can buy a 10 trip card for €6.50.

The extensive bus and electrico (street-car) network is run by Carris. The only way to ride is buying a 7 Colinas card, which is also valid on the subway and streetcars. You can buy a 7 Colinas easily for 0.50 euros and charge it. The 7 Colinas card is rechargeable, but you can charge on it only one type of ticket a day (e.g. you can't charge it with a single ticket and a day ticket at the same time, but you can use it with a day ticket and then charge a single ticket the next day). Be sure to check out the public transport one- and multiple-day tickets which work on both the metro and busses, you will save a lot of money using them.

If you plan to be in Lisbon for an extended time, you can purchase an unlimited pass that covers buses, metro, and funiculars at the Carris station in Santo Amaro. It's 10 euro for the Lisboa Viva card, plus 25 euro for a one-month unlimited pass. You can also get them in week-long or two-week unlimited denominations. Bring a photo ID (passport) and cash.

Think twice before using a car in the city unless you are prepared to spend hours in traffic jams. Parking in certain areas can also be a pain.

If your accommodation is in the centre of the city, walking is a great alternative. Many of the attractions of the city, such as the Castelo and the Alfama and Bairro Alto districts, are within easy walking distance of the Baixa. While walking around Lisbon, if you become lost or cannot find the location you are looking for, try to locate the nearest Carris bus or tram stop. Most of these stops (not all) have a very good map of the city with your current location clearly marked on the map. All the prominent tourist sites in Lisbon are also shown along with an index at the bottom of the map. A quick consultation with one of these Carris maps should point you back in the right direction.

You may also use the funiculars and elevadores. Day passes for public transportation are also valid for those.

[edit] See

Instead of paying for a trip in one of the tourist trams, try line 28. It takes you by many of Lisbon's most famous sites, and although it is overrun with tourists, you still get a flavor of the locals.

  • The Gulbenkian Museum [[2]] Avenida de Berna, 45A Created from the personal collection of Calouste Gulbenkian, an Armenian who longed to see all his treasures displayed in a museum. A nice assortment of Egyptian artifacts, along with paintings by masters such as Rembrandt, Manet, Monet, Renoir, and Cassat. The museum's gardens are worth a visit in and of themselves, as a little oasis in the middle of downtown Lisbon. Entry to the museum is free for students with ID.
  • St. Jorge's Castle Located up the hill, with a great view over the city and the river. If you have the energy, get there by walking from downtown, going through the fantastic old neighborhood of Alfama.
  • Santa Justa's Elevator Located downtown, this elevator was designed by a follower of French engineer Gustav Eiffel and connects the downtown to the Trindade, located several meters uphill.
  • Praça do Comércio This magnificent plaza, facing the river, is the beginning of Lisboa's downtown. It is also known as 'Terreiro do Paço', meaning 'Garden of the Palace', relating to its function before the Great Earthquake of 1755.
  • Centro Cultural de Belém [[3]]] This monument-packed neighbourhood features the likes of Belem Tower (Torre de Belém), the Jerónimos Monastery, Padrão dos Descobrimentos and the modern Belém Cultural Center. A stroll around its many gardens enjoying the river's bright blue is also a must. In front of the former Royal Palace of Belém, now the Presidential Palace, there is a massive statue looking out to sea, representing Afonso de Albuquerque, first Viceroy of Portuguese India at the early 16th century. Housed in the former ridding school of the palace, don't miss the world's largest collection of coaches and royal vehicles at the Coach Museum (Museu dos Coches). Take tram 15 to the west, which follows the coast line.
  • Chiado [[4]] Take a stroll along the historical streets of this elegant shopping district, stopping for a cup of coffee with the statue of Fernando Pessoa, Portugal's great Modernist poet. Head uphill to Bairro Alto, for stunning views of the city and some wild partying in Lisbon's most popular nightclub district.
  • Downtown (Baixa) [[5]] This part of the city was completely rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake by the Marquis de Pombal. The planned layout, greatly different from what you will see in the more ancient neighborhoods, is a testimony to the ideas of the Enlightenment.
  • Ponte 25 de Abril This sister bridge of the Golden Gate in San Francisco was designed by the same architect in 1966 to connect Lisbon with the Setubal peninsula across the Tagus (Tejo) River. Formerly known as the Salazar Bridge, it was renamed after the Carnation Revolution, which on April 25, 1974 ended the dictatorship.
  • Cristo Rei [[6]] Similar to the Christ statue in Rio de Janeiro, this statue stands over 100 meters tall on the opposite bank of the Tejo River from downtown Lisbon. Views from the top of the statue are breathtaking, although the elevator up will cost you 3 euros.
  • Jardim Zoológico A zoo that is fairly pricey, but with a variety of animals.
  • Parque das Nações [[7]] Built for the 1998 World Expo, the eastern side of town (take the Metro to Oriente) is a change from downtown and has one of the world's largest aquariums (10.50 euro admission fee), among other sights.
  • Lisbon metro [[8]] Most of the metro system is a free art gallery. You'll find art by contemporary artists inspired by the stations' surrounding area. Check the subway webpage for more details on this curiosity. The red line is the newest one and has the best pieces of art.
  • Vieira da Silva
  • Alfama This neighbourhood is a sign of the Muslim presence in the city, with the buildings very close to each other, and very irregular streets. It's very atmospheric.

[edit] Do

[edit] Work

[edit] Buy

Shops open a little later than other places in Europe, and the lunch breaks can be quite long, usually from 1pm to 3pm. They are usually closed on Sundays, but you'll find that some which are open for a couple of hours. Most malls, however, are open on Sundays, such as Colombo (beside the Colegio Militar/Luz metro station), the Armazens do Chiado, the Vasco da Gama (beside the Oriente metro station), and Amoreiras (not far from the Marquês de Pombal metro station). Grocery stores are closed on Sundays, after 1PM, except those smaller than 2000m2.

You can buy a Lisbon Shopping Card, which gives you discounts at major stores around the city for a period of 24 hours.

From Praça do Comércio (aka Terreiro do Paço) to the Restauradores, the Baixa is the best shopping district in the city. Stroll along the pedestrian Rua Augusta, with everything from tourist stores to European chain clothing stores like Zara, H&M, Campers and many others.

[edit] Eat

Eat dinner out one night at a traditional Portuguese restaurant at the Bairro Alto, preferably one that has traditional fado music.

Most restaurant are very small, family run and generally cheap. Almost everyone has a sheet on the door with the "pratos do dia" (dishes of the day) written on. These are usually cheaper and fresher, and unless you're looking for something specific, they're the right choice. During the dinner probably the waiter will bring you some unrequested dishes: as those are not free, feel free not to touch them and they will not be charged on your bill.

If it's traditional Portuguese that you're after, then the area of Alfama is the place to go. There, you have plenty of choice, with a street full of restaurants. Try the seafood rice (arroz de marisco).

Try the magnificent pastéis de nata at any pastelaria or the even better, Pastéis de Belém next to the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém. Have them warm and profusely showered in cinnamon.

[edit] Budget

At Café Buenos Aires, at No. 31 you can find a good and selected combination of cheap and mid range dishes. During New Year's Eve they have a set for the night that will delight you. The owners are very friendly and speak Spanish, as well as English and Portuguese.

[edit] Mid-range

[edit] Docas

  • Arroz Maria, Doca de Sto Amaro, Tel. 21 395 4677. Fabulous seafood with a great view of the Tejo river and the Ponte de 25 Abril. Excellent service and really fresh food. Don't miss the tamboril (monkfish) with the tomato and asparagus sauce. Really worth the effort to get there, the Docas area is fairly newly developed, and the railway line makes it hard to find a way across the main road, but with determination it's a great spot to go to. It's one of a number of restaurants of varying types along this stretch of the quayside, but it stands out for quality and value. Check it out before it gets 'trendy'. (added 12/04/07) €25 (two courses with wine and port).


[edit] Bairro Alto

  • Sul, Rua do Norte 13, Tel. +351 21 346 24 49. Delicious Mediterranean and South American food. Good wine and drinks list. Helpful staff will translate the menu, which is written on the blackboard, and happily cater for vegetarians. Gets packed in the evenings so bookings recommended if you're eating from 9pm onwards. €30 (2 courses with wine and cocktail).
  • Pap'Açorda, Rua da Atalaia, 57-59, Tel. +352 21 346 4811. Yet another co-owner of Bico do Sapato (there are four) is Fernando Fernandes. A restaurateur with his finger firmly on Lisbon's pulse, he also owns this place, opened in 1981 and full ever since. Unlike its fabulous half-sister, Pap'Açorda offers a modest check, and it reverses the ratio of great food vs. show-off quotient. This is all about real. If you want to try (almost) unreconstructed Portuguese dishes, here's your place—and it's handily located in this month's up-and-coming-back neighborhood, beautiful Bairro Alto. Since the restaurant is named after Açorda Real, a lobster and shrimp dish, it stands to reason that this is a good thing to order.
  • Brasuca, Rua Joao Pereira da Rosa 7, Tel. 21 322 07 40. Great Brazilian food served by friendly staff.
  • Lisboa à Noite, It's a restaurant with a variety of traditional Portuguese dishes very appreciated by the tourists. You have friendly environment, great service and make sure you try the apetizers.
  • Ali a Papa, Rua da Atalaia 95, Tel. 21 347 41 43, [9]. Couscous heaven in a tiny and friendly room. Highly recommended, and good veggie options too. €20 (two courses with house wine).

[edit] Splurge

[edit] Drink

Lisbon is known for its lively night. For going out, stroll around the old neighborhood of Bairro Alto ('high neighborhood') for an after-dinner caipirinha or ginjinha and people-watching. It's located on the top of one of the hills and you can get there by subway (Baixa/Chiado station) or by taking the marvelous funicular from the Restauradores plaza. Its small streets, full of people, are packed with high variety of bars. Friday and Saturday nights are the busiest, but the Bairro is rocking every night until dawn.

Alcântara, Santos, Parque das Nações, and the castle area are all neighbourhoods with a thriving nightlife. The whole area near the river/Atlantic, known as the docas, is a huge hub for nightlife, as Lisbon has never lost its ties to the sea.

If you are interested in the less touristy but more alternative and local scene, this ERASMUS student guide has up-to-date information on events and listings of bars, clubs and restaurants in Lisbon.

[edit] Sleep

If you are in the center, finding a sleeping place should not be a big problem. There are many small, unlisted hostels that will offer you enough comfort, and offer a fair price. Expect to pay between €45 and €60 for a double room.

There is a tourist service center in the airport, where the nice ladies will book a room for you.

[edit] Budget

[edit] Bairro Alto

  • Camões, Travessa do Poço da Cidade 38, ☎ 21 346 40 48.
  • Borges, Rua Garret, 108, ☎ 21 346 19 51.
  • Suiço Atlântico, Rua da Gloria 3-19, ☎ 21 346 17 13.
  • Pousada da Juventude - Youth Hostel, R. Andrade Corvo, 46, ☎ 21 353 26 96 [[9]]

[edit] Baixa

  • Pensão Alegria, Praça de Alegria 12, ☎ 21 322 0670. Small cosy pension on a beautiful small square. €43,00 (Doubles).
  • Beira Minbo, Praça da Figueira, 6, ☎ 21 346 18 46.
  • Norte, Rua dos Douradores, 159, ☎ 21 887 89 41.
  • Restauradores, Praça dos Restauradores, 13, ☎ 21 347 56 60.
  • Coimbra e Madrid, Praça da Figueira, 3, ☎ 21 342 17 16.


[edit] Mid-range

  • Ibis Jose Malhoa, Avenida José Malhoa LT H, ☎ (+351)21 723 5700 [[10]]
  • Ibis Saldanha, Avenida Casal Ribeiro 23, ☎ (+351)21 319 1690 [[11]]
  • Ibis Liberdade, Rua Barata Sagueiro 53, ☎ (+351)21 330 0630 [[12]]

[edit] Splurge

  • Sofitel, Avenida da Liberdade, ☎ (+351)21 322 8300 [[13]]
  • Pestana Palace, Rua Jau, nº 54, ☎ (+351) 21 361 56 00, [15]. Is a member of the Leading Hotels of the World. Located in an old Palace, has a wonderful garden and luxury spa. Extremely comfortable, and well worth the €220 per night if you book in advance and online. [[14]]

[edit] Furnished Holiday Homes

Lisbon Apartments - Stay in modern apartments in the center of Lisbon.

http://www.VisitingPortugal.com offers you the chance to immerse yourself in Lisbon's Historic District. Settle into this central -- yet very quiet -- residential neighborhood in your own 19th-century private house or apartment with all the comforts of home, including PC with high-speed internet access. Located 5 minutes walk from the Rossio, Lisbon's main square, prices begin at €115/night for 3 adults (€38 per person) in a one bedroom apartment... and range up to €300+/night in a traditional marble-floored home offering views from its large rooftop terrace. A friendly smile and "Welcome Basket" with Portuguese wine, juice, cheese, fruit and freshly-baked bread included at no extra charge. Review the extensive online guest testimonials for handy hints and tips.

Friendly Rentals Lisbon has a big range of modern apartments that suit all budgets - luxury apartments to budget apartments around the Baixa of Lisbon are offered as an alternative to hotels in Lisbon.

WayToStay.com - Lisbon Apartments - Qualit short stay apartments in Lisbon selected personally. On our website photos, descriptions, prices and easy on-line booking.

[edit] Contact

Private international call centres and public telephone booths are common throughout Lisbon. Be warned, however, public phones can be less generous than slot machines: many times they'll swallow your change and give you no credit. You're better off purchasing a Portugal Telecom pre-paid card you can insert into the phone, or even a discount calling card which connects you via a toll-free number. These can be purchased from street kiosks and convenience stores. Most payphones also allow you to pay by credit card, although support for this feature is somewhat expensive.

Internet cafes are also abundant in the Rossio and Restauradores districts as well as in the Bairro Alto (opening late there). Expect to pay between €2 - €3 per hour.

[edit] Stay safe

Although Lisbon is a relatively safe city by European standards, crime rates are on the rise. The most common crime against travellers is pickpocketing and theft from rental cars or on public transport (especially tram line 28). Lisbon has also seen some gang-related nightclub violence in recent years. Be careful at late night in the Bairro Alto. Travellers can get mugged being on their own or when they "bond" with a local gang. Also be careful with bank machines in the City Centre.

A lot of the hash and marijuana smuggled into the EU from Morocco is channelled through Lisbon (actually most is through the huge and not well guarded Portuguese coast, from the Algarve, where most of it gets in, to the very south). Chances are you'll be approached at least a few times by certain types offering 'hash' or 'chocolate'. A firm 'no thank-you' should be enough to deter them.

If however you are into that sort of thing, you should know that most of what these "types" are selling is not worth buying. It's just stuff that they throw together (i.e. not drugs) and coat with resin to sell to tourists. Not worth your money or the risk to your health.

While Bairro Alto and Chiado are hot spot for nightlife, Baixa became almost desert past 8pm, except for homeless and beggars; perhaps you'd better avoid that area.

[edit] Cope

[edit] Get out

  • Praia das Maçãs is a small and surprisingly calm seaside resort about 30km to the west.
  • Azeitão some 30km South of Lisbon, this small region consists of a series of lovely villages, of which Vila Nogueira de Azeitão and Vila Fresca de Azeitão are the most well known. Azeitão stands between the Arrábida Nature Park and the coast. In the park you'll meet the last remains of the original Mediterranean flora. Also, there is the famous Convent of Arrábida to visit and the stunning views from its hills and at its peak.
    • Vila Nogueira de Azeitão - visit the beautiful Winery and palace "Quinta da Bacalhoa". Visit also the grand estate and winery of "José Maria da Fonseca". Igreja de São Lorenço with hand painted tile pannels, gilded wood chappels and a Lucca Della Robbia medallion. Convent of S. Domingos
    • Vila Fresca de Azeitão
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