Stockholm
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- For other places with the same name, see Stockholm (disambiguation).
Stockholm [1] is the capital of Sweden. It is situated in the south central part of the country on the border between the historical provinces Uppland and Södermanland (also known as Sörmland), on the east coast, between lake Mälaren and the Baltic Sea. The municipality of Stockholm has approximately 765,000 inhabitants (2004), the greater metro area 1.9 million (2004). The population of the metro area grows by about 20,000 each year.
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[edit] Understand
Stockholm is not the oldest town in Sweden but after its establishment in the 1250s it rapidly became a national centre, having a very strategic location between a major lake (Mälaren) and the Baltic Sea. The city is in almost every respect the most important city in Sweden, even though more peripheral regions, especially in the south and west, feel they survive quite well without the political centralism exerted by the capital.
Stockholm contains buildings from all ages since the 15th century. Particularly between 1955 and 1975, hundreds of older buildings were demolished during a great modernization process, encouraged by similar projects in London and other cities damaged during the Second World War. Since then, little has changed in the architecture of central Stockholm.
Sweden's beautiful capital has a very picturesque setting that makes the city unique. The difference between summer and winter is quite large, with long, mild summer nights and lots of greenery, and dark, cold, often snowy winters with millions of Christmas candles in the windows.
[edit] Districts
Stockholm Municipality covers an area of 187 square kilometers.
[edit] Inner town
The inner town, innerstaden, covers 35 km² of land and 12 km² of water, and contains most of the interesting locations. Public transportation is great.
[edit] Norrmalm
Norrmalm is the major commercial district, with plenty of shopping opportunities. Southern Norrmalm is mostly called City and is regarded as the absolute center of Stockholm, with the central railway station and the T-Centralen metro hub. The busy pedestrianised shopping street Drottningatan runs in a north-south direction through the area, by the square Sergels Torg.
[edit] Östermalm
Östermalm is an affluent residential area, including Djurgården, the "national city park". The part closest to the city center, around the Stureplan square, is the place for upmarket shopping as well as nightclubs and bars for the jet set and those who seek their company. To the north and east, the tree-line boulevards of Narvavägen and Karlavägen, bordered by decorated stone houses, lead to the Karlaplan square. The area also contains many of Stockholm's numerous museums.
Norra Djurgården is mostly covered by forest, and contains the campuses of Stockholm University and the Royal Institute of Technology, where the student unions hold low-cost pubs at weeknights. Check out http://www.fester.nu (Swedish only) for opening hours.
Södra Djurgården (often referred to simply as Djurgården) is an island with some of Stockholm's major tourist attractions - the Skansen open air museum, the Gröna Lund amusement park and Vasamuseet.
[edit] Vasastan
Although administratively a part of Norrmalm, most stockholmers regard Vasastan as a separate area. It is a rather large, mainly residential area that has recently attracted a younger crowd. The most central part, around the Odenplan square, offers some shopping and nightlife.
[edit] Old Town
Gamla Stan, The Old Town, is the historical centre. The northern part is dominated by the Royal Palace and the Riksdag - the Swedish parliament. The rest of the island is a picturesque collection of old buildings and narrow cobblestone streets. The adjacent island Riddarholmen holds an important church and several old administrative buildings.
[edit] Södermalm
Södermalm, Söder, used to be the home of the working-class, but was mostly gentrified during the last decades of the 20th century. The more or less bohemian area south of Folkungagatan has recently become nicknamed SoFo (with obvious inspiration from SoHo).
Slussen ("The Lock") is a waterway-lock between Södermalm and Gamla Stan, covered by road bridges, and a mass transit hub.
Medborgarplatsen ("Citizens' square") is a square surrounded by restaurants and pubs - the cheaper ones are in the backstreets.
[edit] Kungsholmen
On the eastern tip of the island of Kungsholmen the impressive redbrick Stockholm City Hall stands by the water. Further west, a collection of rather relaxed neigbourhood bars and restaurants can be found. West of the Fridhemsplan transport hub and the new Västermalmsgallerian shopping mall, the island becomes more suburban in nature.
[edit] Western suburbs
The western suburbs, västerort, are diverse, containing both the wealthiest and the poorest neighborhoods.
- Bromma Airport
- Kista is the Swedish center of information technology. It contains Kista Science Tower - Sweden's tallest office building, and Kistagallerian - a shopping mall open until 9 pm.
- Vällingby is known as one of the first planned suburbs in Europe.
[edit] Southern suburbs
Söderort, or söder om Söder, is known for its arenas.
The Globe Arena, clearly visible from most of Södermalm, host ice hockey games as well as international artist performances. Neighbors are Söderstadion - a soccer stadium, and Hovet - a medium-sized arena.
Hammarbybacken is an artificial hill for alpine skiing. A good experience if temperature is below zero, and you don't have the chance to go to a ski resort.
Further south, Skogskykogården (the Woodland Cemetary) is a UNESCO World Heritage site famous for its architecture. Swedish film star Greta Garbo is one of several notables buried there.
[edit] Bordering towns
- Vaxholm (archaic spelling Waxholm), reached by Waxholmsbolaget passenger ferries, offers a great waterfront view and cosy shops.
- Ekerö contains tho World Heritage sites - the Drottningholm palace and Birka - the "viking" town.
- Lidingö is an island-suburb, mostly famous for Millesgården sculpture museum (see below) and Bosön, center for The Swedish Sports Confederation. Several world-famous athletes work out at Bosön. Lidingöloppet is a cross-country running race included in the Swedish Classic Circuit.
- Solna just north of Norrmalm is famous for Råsunda, the soccer stadium, and is home of the Karolinska institute, one of the world's foremost institutions in medical research.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By plane
- Arlanda Airport: The main international airport served by SAS, Sterling and BA is situated 40km north of the city. There are several methods for travelling between Stockholm and Arlanda.
- Taxis from major taxi companies operate on a fixed price basis between Arlanda and Stockholm. Prices at the taxi stands currently range from SEK 395 (Transfer Taxi) to SEK 445. The cheapest way of getting from and to Arlanda by taxi costs SEK 350 with Airport Cab (phone: +46 8 252523) or Taxi Solna (phone: +46 8 280280). Both companies require pre-booking by phone to get this price. If you take one of their cabs at the rank you will pay a higher fare. Generally, you can freely choose among the waiting taxis or ask the operator for a specific company. A taxi ride to central Stockholm takes approximately 40 minutes.
- The company airportshuttle.se [2] runs a minibus shuttle service to selected hotels in central Stockholm. The price is SEK 150 but pre-booking at least 12 hours before departure is necessary.
- The Arlanda Express train [3], which leaves from the lower level of each terminal, costs SEK 240 (SEK 110 for people under 25 years of age (tickets can be purchased from Kiosks at the platform, the train attendant may ask for ID for proof of age), and two adults for 240 during weekends and holidays) one-way, but gets you to the Central Station in 20 minutes (it goes at 205 Km/h) and departs every 15 minutes during the day.
- Airport coaches (Flygbussarna) [4] run frequently to and from the City Terminal, just next to the Central Station (approx. 40 mins) and cost SEK 95 (SEK 65 for students - ISIC or EURO26 holders). They make a few stops in the northern suburbs along the way.
- The by far cheapest option is to use local transport. Bus 583 goes between Arlanda and the northern suburb of Märsta, from which commuter trains take you to Stockholm Central. This takes about an hour but costs only SEK 40 (or buy a SL travel card).
- Bromma Airport: A smaller airport 10km west of central Stockholm, mainly used for domestic flights and inter-European hops to cities like Brussels and Paris. Airport coaches [5] go to the City Terminal, price SEK 69. A cheaper option (SEK 20) is to take local bus 112 to Spånga station, and from there take a commuter train to Stockholm Central.
- Skavsta Airport: Used by Ryanair and Wizzair. 100 km southwest of Stockholm, near the town Nyköping. Airport coaches [6] go to/from the City Terminal in Stockholm. SEK 139 one way, SEK 199 round trip, takes about 80 minutes.
- Västerås Airport: Situated 100 km west of Stockholm near the town Västerås. Serves Ryanair flights to/from London (Stansted) and Dublin. Airport coaches [7] go to/from the City Terminal in Stockholm. SEK 130 one way, SEK 199 round trip, takes about 75 minutes.
[edit] By train
The main station, Stockholms Central, lies directly in the city centre near the waterfront. It's connected underground to T-Centralen, the central hub for the subway system. The major national rail company, SJ, has a travel planner and ticket booking service on its web page [8].
[edit] By boat
Ferries go to Finland and Estonia every day. For more information, see Baltic sea cruises.
- Silja Line [9] ferries to Helsinki and Turku leave from the Värtahamnen port, some 500 meters from the Gärdet subway station.
- Viking Line [10] ferries to Helsinki and Turku leave from the Stadsgårdsterminalen port in the south of the city. Expensive buses shuttle passengers to the Slussen subway station, or you can get there on foot by following the coastline north for a kilometre or so. There are also privately run (and more expensive) direct buses from the ferry terminal to the Cityterminalen bus station about 2.5 km away.
- Birka Cruises [11] go between Stockholm and Mariehamn on Åland. Ships depart from Stadsgårdsterminalen, see above.
- Tallink [12] serves the destinations Mariehamn on Åland, Tallinn in Estonia, and Riga in Latvia. Ships depart from the Frihamnen port.
A lot of European cruises have day long stops in Stockholm.
[edit] Get around
[edit] Public transport
Stockholms Lokaltrafik, SL (Stockholm Public Transport) [13] runs a wide subway, commuter train and bus system as well as some tram, light rail and ferry services, all using an integrated ticket system. There are passes available for 24 hours (90 SEK), 72 hours (190 SEK), or 7 days (230 SEK) and single journey tickets valid for one hour cost from 20 SEK upto 80 SEK (12 SEK upto 48 SEK if you're under 20 or over 65) depending upon the number of zones or the type of single ticket you choose to travel with. When you purchase the 72-hour transit pass, you also receive free admission to Kaknästornet and Gröna Lund (see "See" below). If you are going to be in Stockholm for a while, go ahead and purchase a 30-day card, which allows unrestricted access to all of the buses, trams, subways, and commuter trains, as well as the Djurgården ferry, for 620 SEK.
The Stockholm Card [14] allows free public transport as well as free admission to 75 museums and sights in Stockholm, free sightseeing by boat and other bonus offers. Adult 24 hours 290 SEK, adult 48 hours 420 SEK, adult 72 hours 540 SEK.
The SL website has detailed ticket and price information, and a journey planner.
The standard of rolling stock varies greatly. Old, noisy, graffiti-ridden subway and commuter cars are being replaced by sparkling new ones.
[edit] Subway
There is an efficient metro system called the Tunnelbanan (sometimes abbreviated T-Bana on signs). With exactly 100 stations, it is quite extensive for a city of this size and will get you around almost all the downtown places as well as most nearby suburbs. Trains run until almost 1 AM weeknights and 3:30 AM weekends.
[edit] Commuter train
The commuter train (pendeltåg) in Stockholm covers much of Stockholm county, as well as some locations in bordering counties. There are currently 51 stations. The busiest routes are along the Kungsängen to Västerhaninge and Märsta to Södertälje lines, with departures every 15 minutes during the day, and every 30 minutes in the evening, and with extra cars during rush-hour. On the other lines, the service is less frequent. Commuter trains use the same tickets and passes as the subways and public buses.
[edit] Bus, light rail and ferry
Stockholm has an extensive bus system which reaches areas the Tunnelbana does not. Five inner city main lines numbered from 1 to 5 are operated by large blue buses, the other, generally less frequent lines, by red buses. There is also a light rail line, Tvärbanan, which runs in a semi-circle outside the inner city, from west to southeast. There are also a few ferries that go to Djurgården and Skeppsholmen. Bus, light rail and ferry travel is included with any 24- or 72-hour transit pass as well as the monthly pass. (The ferries to the archipelago, the airport buses, the Arlanda Express train and the SJ regional trains to Uppsala, Västerås, Eskilstuna and other destinations are not part of the SL network and thus not included in any of these tickets.)
[edit] Bike
Cycling is an attractive option. On a bike, a journey across central Stockholm's islands will take no longer than 30 min and is normally faster than travelling by subway or car. There are cycle paths along most major roads and drivers are generally considerate towards cyclists. Cycling is possible in winter when the paths are covered in ice, but extra care must be taken. In summer, bikes can be hired on Strandvägen where the ferries dock. There are also bikes available in bike stands at different locations in Stockholm city. You can pick up a bike in one stand and leave it in another. To use this service you need to buy a key-card. One day costs 25 SEK and a season pass costs 200 SEK. You may not use the bikes for more than three hours at a time. You can however borrow a new bike directly after you have returned one. More information about this can be found at Stockholm City Bikes. Key-cards can be bought at an SL Center.
[edit] Taxi
Taxis are on the expensive side. The Stockholm taxi market was deregulated several years ago, which made it considerably easier to find a taxi, but no pricing regulations are in effect. This means that small operators can, and sometimes will, charge outrageous prices. Try to stick with the major companies (Taxi Stockholm, Taxi Kurir, and Taxi 020) to avoid being ripped off. If you hail a taxi from any other company it might be a good idea to ask for a price estimate before commencing your journey. Expect to pay about 100 SEK for a 5 minute trip. All taxis of the major companies accept credit cards.
Authorized taxis have yellow license plates. Late at night in the city center, you may be offered a ride with an unauthorized taxi, svarttaxi (literally "black taxi"), usually by discrete whispering of "taxi". Most of the time this will get you home for roughly the same cost as ordinary taxis - just don't ask for a receipt. These cabs are usually controlled by organized crime, and some unpleasant episodes have been known to happen to passengers, so try this at your own risk, and preferably not alone.
It's often possible to negotiate a price with a licensed taxi driver before entering the cab. In this case, it's implied that you won't receive a receipt, and the driver won't be paying any taxes or his employer. The money (paid in cash) will go straight into the driver's pocket, which means that you can often get a cheaper ride. However, if you don't know the area well enough to estimate the regular metered price you might get ripped off.
[edit] Car
Since 1th August 2007 car drivers driving in Stockholm between 6:30 AM and 6:29 PM will be charged a congestion tax [15]. This will, however, not be applied to foreign cars.
[edit] See
Stockholm has a number of spectacular tourist attractions, ranging from the interesting architecture of the City Hall to the stunning natural beauty of the archipelago. In the Royal Palace and the royal family residenence Drottningholm Palace, visitors can get in close contact with traditions of the Swedish monarchy. Among the wide range of museums, the Vasa museum with its 17th century warship and the Skansen open air museum are unique experiences. Gamla stan, the picturesque old town, is a major attraction in itself, with narrow streets and houses dating back to medieval times.
(Directions in Stockholm are often accompanied by the name of the closest subway stop, using "T" as an abbreviation for "Tunnelbana" (e.g. "T Gamla Stan". This practice is followed below when appropriate.)
- Stockholm's Old Town (Gamla Stan) is the beautifully preserved historical heart of Stockholm. T Gamla Stan station is on the west side of the compact quarter, which is best covered on foot. Riddarholmskyrkan is a beautifully preserved medieval church.
- The Stockholm archipelago (skärgården) is one of the world's most spectacular. Stretching 80 kilometres east of the city, the archipelago comprises 24 000 islands, islets and rocks. Several ferry lines and package tours are available. Most ferries are operated by Waxholmsbolaget and depart from Strömkajen, opposite the Royal Palace. During the summer you can also use Strömma Kanalbolaget with faster and more modern ships, departing from Nybrokajen (by Strandvägen). Many will pass the picturesque town of Vaxholm, on the mainland to the northeast of the city, well worth a stopover if you have the time. The islands offer a wide variety of nature, from the lush green of the inner archipelago to the bare cliffs of the more distant outposts. Some islands have restaurants, youth hostels and country stores, while others entirely deserted islands. If you want to go on a day trip, Grinda is a good alternative; the ride lasts from 75 minutes to nearly 3 hours depending on your choice of boat. During part of the summer, Strömma Kanalbolaget offers a day cruise (11 hours, SEK 775 including lunch, dinner and guided tours) as well as a shorter, 2.5 hour boat excursion (SEK 190), both departing from Nybrokajen. The latter does not go far out, and you will miss the 'real' archipelago. Möja, Sandhamn and Utö are popular destinations further out. If you plan to go island-hopping there is a 16-day card entitling you to free travel (SEK 490).
- The Royal Palace [16], built between 1697 and 1754 and located on the east side of the Old Town, is open to the public. Tickets to The Royal Apartments, the Tre Kronor Museum, the Treasury, and Gustav III's Museum of Antiquities cost 70 SEK each, with the sumptuous Apartments being the main draw; if royal regalia is your thing, you'll probably want to pay 110 SEK for a combination ticket and visit the Treasury as well. Open 10-4 daily in the summer, 12-4 and closed Mondays in the winter.
- The Stockholm City Hall, Hantverkargatan 1 (T T-Centralen or Rådhuset, buses 3 and 62) [17]. The city hall, where the Nobel Prize Banquet takes place every year, is an imposing brick building in the city centre. Guided tours are held daily, and allow you to see the impressive halls used for the Nobel festivities, the Blue Hall and the Golden Hall.
- Gröna Lund, Lilla Allmänna Gränd 9 (Bus 44 or 47, the latter from Sergels Torg, or the Djurgården Ferry from Slussen or Nybroplan), phone: +46 8 587 501 00 [18]. Open at least noon-11 PM most days June-August, shorter hours May and early September. Djurgården has Stockholm's only amusement park, with more or less standard attractions and games. The restaurants in the park are expensive and generally far from a culinary experience. Note that no rides are included in the entrance fee. Adults 60 SEK (120 SEK from 6 PM concert nights, usually Fridays). Rides 20-60 SEK with single tickets, day pass 260 SEK.
- Casino Cosmopol, Kungsgatan 65 (T T-Centralen) phone: +46 8 781 88 00 [19]. Open every day 1 PM-5 AM. Minimum 20 years of age, photo ID required. If you find yourself longing for an international casino, the Swedish state has heard your needs. In 2003 Stockholm’s first and only casino was opened, drawing a rather diverse crowd. There is a restaurant in the casino as well. Entrance 30 SEK. Dress code recommended.
- The Stockholm Public Library [20], Sveavägen 73 (T Rådmansgatan). Built in 1928 and designed by the famous Swedish architect Erik Gunnar Asplund, the interior of the cylinder-shaped main hall is spectacular, with three floors of bookshelves covering 360 degrees of circular wall. Books (both fiction and non-fiction) are available in many different languages, including English and German. On the cliff overlooking it is the old Observatory, which has a fine view of the city to the east. There is a small cafe.
- The Stockholm School of Economics. A time honored institution that has seen some of the most famous people in Sweden come and go in its halls. The school is located in an imposing building on Sveavägen close to the Public Library. Hang around for a while and see the future rulers of the country frolick in their sunday bests. The cafe located downstairs has got some excellent coffee as well.
[edit] Viewpoints
- The northern parts of Södermalm offer some excellent viewpoints with panoramas of the central parts of the city.
- Walking eastwards from Slussen up Katarinavägen you will reach the picturesque street Fjällgatan [21], with a view of Gamla Stan from the east.
- Monteliusvägen, a walking path that you reach from Bastugatan [22] (north of T Mariatorget) offers a similar view from the west. Benches and tables offer picnic possibilities.
- Skinnarviksberget, a hill further west, close to the Zinkensdamm subway station, is a good option if you prefer cliffs to streets. When exiting the station turn back and head to the north. Walk up a small street to the right and climb the hill. Look for the "Kattenvägen" sign.
- Kaknästornet, Mörka kroken 3, Ladugårdsgärdet [23] (Bus 69 from Sergels Torg), Phone: +46 8 667 21 05, open 10 AM-9 PM September-April, 9 AM-10 PM May-August. The 155-metre TV tower, east of central Stockholm, offers a different kind of panorama from its viewing gallery. Adults 30 SEK, children 7-15 15 SEK.
[edit] Museums
Stockholm has more than 70 museums, ranging from those large in size and scope to the very specialized, including the Butterfly Museum, the Army Museum, and the Dance Museum. to name but a few. Among the most popular and spectacular are the Vasa museum (Vasamuseet), with its magnificient and well-preserved 17th century warship, the rather unique open air museum and zoo Skansen and the Museum of History (Historiska museet) featuring an extensive and beautifully presented Viking exhibition. The National Museum (Nationalmuseet) and the Museum of Modern Art (Moderna museet) both hold interesting collections of Swedish and international art.
- Vasamuseet, the Vasa Museum, Galärvarvsvägen 14 (Bus 47 from Sergels torg or the Djurgården ferry from Slussen or Nybroplan), phone: +46 8-519 548 00 [24]. Open every day June-August 8.30 am-6 pm, September-May 10 am-5 pm (W -8 pm). The Vasa Museum features Vasa, an original warship from 1628 which sank just after being launched. Retrieved from the water in 1961, the ship is almost wholly preserved and unique in the world. A must-see, especially since it is uncertain whether current methods of preservation will be able to maintain her condition in years to come. Adults 80 SEK, children up to 17 free.
There are adequate lifts to enable those less physically fit to see all levels of the ship.
- Skansen, main entrance from Djurgårdsvägen (Bus 47 from Sergels torg or the Djurgården ferry from Slussen or Nybroplan), phone: +46 8 442 80 00 [25]. Open every day 10 AM-8 PM May 1-June 20, 10 AM-10 PM June 21-August 31, shorter hours the rest of the year - but always at least 10 AM to 3 PM. The first open-air museum in the world, as well as a zoological garden specializing in Nordic fauna, such as moose, reindeer, bear, wolf, lynx and wolverine. Located on the island of Djurgården it features over 150 historic buildings from previous centuries. Hosts and hostesses in historic costumes are a further attraction, and domestic occupations such as weaving, spinning, and glass blowing are demonstrated. There is also an "aquarium" [26] (not included in the entrance fee) with lemurs, monkeys, snakes, spiders, fish and Cuban Crocodiles. Adults 90 SEK June-August, lower other times of the year. The aquarium: Adults 75 SEK.
- Historiska Museet, The Museum of History, Narvavägen 13-17 (T Karlaplan or buses 44 and 56 to Historiska museet, buses 47, 69, 76 to Djurgårdsbron/Historiska museet) [27]. Open May-September every day 10 am - 5 pm, October-April Tu-Su 11 AM-5 PM, Th 11 AM-8 PM. If you're interested in older Scandinavian history, from the Stone Age to the Vikings, you will want to visit The Museum of History. In the Gold Room, you'll find gold treasures from the Bronze Age to the 16th century. (If you're really interested in all things Viking, you might also want to consider a boat trip to the Viking town of Birka - see "Get out" below.)
- Moderna Museet (The Museum of Modern Art) [28] is headed by Lars Nittve, formerly of London's Tate Modern. Although its Stockholm counterpart might not have as vast a collection, there is still enough to satisfy both the modern art buff as well as the curious amateur. Entrance is 80/60 SEK. Also, the building, by Spanish architect Rafael Moneo, is a sight in itself.
- For those more interested in classical art, Nationalmuseum (The National Museum) [29] offers pieces by Rembrandt, Rubens, Goya, Renoir, Degas and Gauguin, as well as well-known Swedish artists such as Carl Larsson, Ernst Josephson, C F Hill and Anders Zorn. The museum also has a collection of applied art, design, and industrial design. The museum is situated in a beautiful 19th century building and has a nice café in its atrium.
- Prince Eugen's Waldemarsudde, Prins Eugens Väg 6, phone: +46 8 545 837 00 [30]. Open 11 AM-5 PM (Thursday -8 PM). Prince Eugen (1865-1947) was the son of king Oscar II and an avid art collector. His beautiful palace on Djurgården is now a museum housing his enormous art collection spanning the 1880-1940 period.
- Nordiska Museet (The Nordic Museum), Djurgårdsvägen 6-16 (On Djurgården, just after the Djurgården bridge. Bus 44 or 47, the latter from Sergels Torg.), phone: +46 8 519 546 00 [31]. Open 10-17 all days June-August, 10 AM-4 PM Monday-Friday (-8 PM Wednesdays) and 11-17 Saturdays and Sundays September-May. A museum of cultural history from 1520 to our days, celebrating its 100-year anniversary, in an impressive catedral-like building on Djurgården. Exhibitions focus on Swedish handicraft, customs and traditions.
- Nobelmuseet [32] has lots of material on the Nobel Prize, including videotaped speeches by laureates. Located in Börshuset (old Stock Exchange house), Stortorget, Gamla Stan. Open till 17:00, Tuesdays till 20:00. NB: some of their material claims that they are open until 18:00, but that is incorrect.
- Naturhistoriska riksmuseet, (The Swedish Museum of Natural History), [33] - One of the two major museums of natural history (the other one is located in Gothenburg). The museum's collection is well-known around the globe and consists of animals, plants, fungi, minerals and fossils. The exhibits have been collected from the poles to the equator, and some were aquired during the voyages of James Cook. The museum is adjacent to Cosmonova, the world's largest IMAX/Omnimax-theatre.
- Tekniska Museet (Museum of Science and Technology), Museivägen 7 (Bus 69), Phone: +46 8 450 56 00 [34]. Open M–F 10 am–5 pm, Sa-Su 11 am–5 pm. This large museum tells the tale of Sweden's strong engineering tradition. It is also suitable for small children, with the possibility to carry out your own experiments in the Teknorama section. Adults 60 SEK, children 6-19 30 SEK.
- Kulturhuset The House of Culture [35] - with exhibitions, several theatre stages, restaurants, an art bookshop and much more. On ground level there is an Internet café (called Access IT).
- Maybe not for everyone, but still entertaining: Spårvägsmuseet, the Transport Museum [36], is a museum of Stockholm's public transportation. Walking through historical buses and subway cars is quite fun but not enough text is in English.
[edit] Churches
Stockholm has a large number of interesting churches, some of them dating back to medieval times. Most of them are in active use by the Lutheran Church of Sweden.
- Storkyrkan, the Stockholm Cathedral, Trångsund 1 (next to the Royal Castle, T Gamla Stan), phone: +46 8 723 30 16 [37]. Open every day 9 am-6 pm May 21-September 29, 9 am-4 pm rest of year. Guided tours every thursday at 11, free entry. Storkyrkan is the oldest church in Gamla Stan. Originating as a 13th century Gothic structure, the exterior was remodelled in Baroque style around 1740. The church is the seat of the Church of Sweden bishop of Stockholm. It contains two pieces of famous artwork: the 15th century wooden statue of Saint George and a copy of the oldest known image of Stockholm, Vädersolstavlan ("The Sun Dog Painting"), a 1632 copy of a lost original from 1535. 25 SEK except for visitors to services May 21-September 29, free entry rest of year.
- Riddarholmskyrkan (Ridddarholmen Church), Riddarholmen (T Gamla Stan), phone: +46 8 590 350 09. Open every day 10 am-5 pm June-August, 10 am-4 pm May 15-May 31 and September 1-September 14. Riddarholmskyrkan is one of Stockholms most beautiful churches, and the only remaining medieval abbey. The structure dates back to the late 14th century. In the church, many Swedish regents are buried, including Gustav II Adolf and Karl XII. Adults 30 SEK, children 7-18 10 SEK.
- Katarina kyrka, Högbergsgatan 13, phone: +46 8 743 68 00 [38]. Open to the public M-F 11 am-5 pm, Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. Katarina kyrka ("Church of Catherine"), named after Princess Catherine, mother of king Charles X of Sweden, can be seen from many parts of central Stockholm from its location on a Södermalm hill. The church was built 1656–1695 and has been rebuilt twice after being destroyed by fires. After the first fire, in 1723, the church was given a larger, octagonal tower. Following a new fire in May 1990 which left almost nothing but the external walls, the church was faithfully reconstructed and reopened in 1995. Several notable Swedes are buried in the cemetery. The most well-known is former Foreign Minister Anna Lindh, who was assassinated in 2003.
- Adolf Fredriks kyrka, Holländargatan 16 (T Hötorget or T Rådmansgatan), phone: +46 8 20 70 76 [39]. Open to the public M 1-7 pm, Tu-Sa 10 am-4 pm, Su 10.30 am-4 pm. Adolf Fredriks kyrka, named after King Adolf Fredrik, was built in 1768-1774. The exterior is quite intact while the interior was radically changed in the 1890s. In the church there is a monument to the philosopher Cartesius, who died in Stockholm. Today, the church is probably most known for the burial place of former prime minister Olof Palme, who was assasinated on Sveavägen not far from the church. The grave can be found just to the south of the church building.
- Bromma kyrka, Gliavägen 100 (Bus 117 from either T Brommaplan or commuter train station Spånga), phone: +46 8 37 34 48 [40]. Bromma kyrka, in the western suburbs, is one of the oldest in Stockholm. It has also been voted the city's most beautiful. The oldest part was built as a round church in the second half of the 12th century. The church contains medieval paintings from the late 15th century.
[edit] Art
Beyond the art museums such as the Museum of Modern Art, the National Museum and Prince Eugen's Waldemarsudde (see Museums above), Stockholm has a vivid art scene and offers plenty of opportunities to watch contemporary art in galleries, exhibition halls and public places. The Stockholm official visitors guide has a list of galleries. And don't forget to look at the art in the Stockholm subway stations!
- Between Slussen and Mariatorget, the Hornsgatan street has a narrow side section on the north side, above the main street, nicknamed "Hornsgatspuckeln" ("the Hornsgatan bump"), with a lot of galleries. Some examples are the ceramics and glassware gallery blås & knåda (Hornsgatan 26, Phone: +46 8 642 77 67) and Grafiska Sällskapet ("The Graphic society", Hornsgatan 6, Phone: +46 8 643 88 04).
- Östermalm is another gallery district, even though the outlets are a little further apart. Sturegatan and Karlavägen are two streets with several galleries.
- Bonniers konsthall, Torsgatan 19 (T St Eriksplan), phone: +46 8 736 42 48. Open W 11 AM-8 PM, Th-Su 11 AM-5 PM (closed during the summer). This new exhibition hall, opened in 2005 by the Bonnier family, owners of Sweden's largest media empire, showcases Swedish and international contemporary art. Adults 40 SEK.
- Färgfabriken, Lövholmsbrinken 1 (T Liljeholmen, Tvärbanan tram Trekanten), phone: +46 8 645 07 07 [41]. Open Thursday-Sunday noon-6 PM (closed for much of the summer). Färgfabriken is an exhibition hall housed in an old color factory from 1889 (the name translates to "the color factory"), calling itself "laboratory of the contemporary". It is perhaps one of Sweden's most interesting scenes for contemporary art. Unfortunately, it is closed for most of the summer.
- Tensta konsthall, Taxingegränd 10 (T Tensta), phone: +46 8 36 07 63 [42]. Open Tuesday-Sunday noon-5 PM (closed for much of the summer). Tensta Konsthall, an exhibition hall in the multicultural western suburb of Tensta, opened in 1998 and has been met with much interest from critics for its contemporary art exhibitions.
- The two major art university colleges in Stockholm hold regular exhibitions where the Swedish artists of tomorrow show off their talent. Information about upcoming events are available in English on their web sites:
- The Stockholm subway has plenty of artistic decoration in its stations, and promotes itself as "the worlds longest art exhibition". Some of the most interesting features are the moody dark blue cave of Kungsträdgården with details from the former palace Makalös, the giant black and white "drawings" by Siri Derkert at Östermalmstorg and the celebration of science and technology at Tekniska Högskolan. In the suburbs, Rissne has a fascinating timeline of human history on its walls.
- Among the most controversial new pieces of public art in Stockholm in recent years is the monument to Raoul Wallenberg between the adjacent squares Nybroplan and Berzelii Park (T Kungsträdgården or T Östermalmstorg). The sculpture group, consisting of twelve low black figures, by the Danish artist Kirsten Ortwed, inagurated in 2001, has been both praised and compared to human feces.
[edit] Do
- Walk around, have a drink at Gondolen with an excellent view of the old town. When taking the elevator up, use the one located inside the building connected to the restaurant. If you use the one located in the support tower, it will cost 20 SEK per person. Stockholm is a very easy city to enjoy by foot with no steep streets. Particularly in the summer months (which can be a very short time), the city shows itself at its best. If Gondolen is full or you wish an vegetarian alternative Herman further up Katarinabacken (the road going south east from Slussen) is a nice place. Another cocktail lounge in the area is Sjöfartshotellets penthouse lounge located a bit up the road from Slussen (closer than Hermans).
- Go swimming. You are never far from water in Stockholm. There are several beaches in the inner city. They might be crowded when Swedish people have time off, but you will surely find some place.
- The island Långholmen (T Hornstull) has several good spots, including a small sandy beach.
- The largest beach in inner-city Stockholm is the child-friendly Smedsuddsbadet (T Fridhemsplan), next to the Rålambshovsparken park.
- Fredhällsbadet (T Kristineberg) is a rocky beach on western Kungsholmen.
- If the water in lake Mälaren is too cold for your tastes, you can opt for one of the outdoor swimming pools:
- Stockholm also has several indoor swimming pools and spas in very special settings:
- Storkyrkobadet, Svartmangatan 20-22 (T Gamla Stan), phone: +46 8 20 90 27 [47]. Open for men 5-8 PM Tu, F, Su, for women 5-8 PM M and Th (closed during summer). A small secret hidden in what once was a wine cellar in the old town, where you can take a bath under 18th century vaults. Note that men and women cannot visit the bath together. Adults 40 SEK, includes entrance to pool and sauna.
- Centralbadet, Drottninggatan 88 - entrance from the courtyard (T Hötorget), phone: +46 8 545 213 15 [48]. Open M-F 6 AM-8 PM, Sa 8 AM-8 PM, Su 8 AM-5 PM. Located in one of Stockholms most beautiful art noveau buildings, this is a place where you can go for a swim, have a beer in the sauna bar or enjoy a full spa treatment. Rather expensive and sometimes crowded on weekends. Adults 110 SEK (150 SEK F and Sa after 3 PM) includes entrance to pool, jacuzzi, gym and saunas. "Breakfast bath" including breakfast M-F 7-10 AM 160 SEK, Sa-Su 8-11 AM 195 SEK. Most spa treatments 350-700 SEK.
- Sturebadet, Sturegallerian 36 (T Östermalmstorg), phone: +46 8 545 015 00 [49]. Open M-F 06.30 AM-10 PM, Sa-Su 9 AM-7 PM. Considering the fact that the entrance is located in the exclusive Östermalm shopping center Sturegallerian, it is hardly a surprise that Sturebadet is the most exclusive spa in central Stockholm. For those who can afford it, this place offers luxury in a listed 1880s building (faithfully reconstructed after a fire in 1985). 495 SEK (395 SEK M-Th 1 PM-4 PM) includes rented towel, robe and slippers, and entrance to pool, spa-section, gym and saunas. Most spa treatments 540 SEK and upwards.
- Watch a movie. There are many cinemas in Stockholm. Most movies aren't dubbed but subtitled, so if your English is good enough this is a good way to pass some time. Many cinemas are THX certified. A ticket is around 80 SEK. Many of Stockholms most charming classic cinemas have been closed in recent years, victims of the competition from modern multiplex screens. The elegant Röda Kvarn on Biblioteksgatan was recently transformed into an Urban Outfitters store. A few splendid venues are especially worth a visit – while they are still around:
- Skandia, Drottninggatan 82 (T Hötorget). This 1850s building houses a 1920s cinema designed by the Stockholm Public Library architect Erik Gunnar Asplund. A beautiful and intimate setting.
- Astoria Nybrogatan, Nybrogatan 15 (T Östermalmstorg). Another of the few remaining single-screen cinemas in Stockholm, Astoria is a beauty threated with extinction since its owner Astoria Cinemas declared bankruptcy in July 2007. Opened in 1928, Astoria has one of the city's larger auditoriums: 501 seats.
- Go nightclubbing and enjoy the fun of Swedish pop music.
[edit] LGBT events
The people of Stockholm are generally tolerant to homosexuality. There is an annual LGBT pride festival - Stockholm Pride - in the summer. The national LGBT organization, RFSL, can provide information on other events and locations.
[edit] Buy
Sweden is internationally well-known for its design, and Stockholm has many stores where you can find Swedish-designed clothes, textiles and interior decoration items. Hand-made and hand-painted glassware is also a famous Swedish speciality.
Popular Swedish clothing brands that you can find in several major stores include Acne Jeans, WESC, J Lindeberg, Whyred, Tiger and Filippa K. Recent years has seen an explosion of young designers starting their own small labels. Many of these can be found in the small shops in the SoFo area (see below). Examples are Nakkna, Jenny Hellström, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair and The Stray Boys.
[edit] Shopping areas
- Gamla Stan, the old town, has plenty of small stores selling souvenirs, art, handicraft and other items mainly geared towards tourists. Although there are a number of tourist traps with tacky, grossly overpriced merchandise, especially on Västerlånggatan, you can also find nice and interesting stuff. If you want a calmer experience, try Österlånggatan or any of the other streets.
- Drottninggatan is a pedestrianised street starting at the Riksbron bridge to Gamla Stan and continuing north up to the Observatorielunden park. The section south of the Sergels torg square is dominated by stores selling tourist souvenirs and cheap clothes, and bland and bleak restaurants. Between Sergels Torg and Kungsgatan you will find the Åhléns and PUB department stores, as well as flagship stores for some national and international clothing chains. North of Kungsgatan, there are more cafés, restaurants and smaller stores.
- Norrmalmstorg, Biblioteksgatan and the southern end of Birger Jarlsgatan, together with crossing streets and the Sturegallerian shopping centre on Stureplan, form the most upscale shopping area in the city, with brands like Emporio Armani (Biblioteksgatan 3, +46 8 678 79 80), Gucci (Birger Jarlsgatan 1, +46 8 545 005 44), Hugo Boss (Birger Jarlsgatan 28, +46 8 611 42 40, Karen Millen (Biblioteksgatan 7, +46 8 611 57 06) and Louis Vuitton (Birger Jarlsgatan 17 A, +46 8 611 92 00).
- Götgatsbacken, the northernmost section of Götgatan on Södermalm, is perhaps best known for its nightlife, but also has lots of clothes stores with different profiles, including a new, small shopping centre called Bruno.
- The SoFo district [50], the cleverly rebranded area south of eastern Södermalm's Folkungagatan, has lots of designer clothes and design shops, as well as cafés and restaurants.
- The Street market [51] at Hornstull is open on some weekends. This laidback market offers designer clothes, streetstyle jewellery and a lot of other stuff.
- Stockholm Quality Outlet, Majorsvägen 2-4, Järfälla (Commuter train to Jakobsberg and then bus 567) [52]. Open M-F 11 AM-8 PM, Sa 10 AM-5 PM, Su 11 AM-5 PM. Close to one of Stockholm's two IKEA stores, in the suburb Barkarby, rather far out northwest of the city center, you will find a factory outlet village that claims to be the first and biggest in the Nordic countries', and promises prices 30 to 60 percent lower than in the city center stores.
[edit] Selected stores
[edit] Department stores
- Åhléns City, Klarabergsgatan 50 (T T-Centralen), phone: +46 8 676 60 00 [53]. Open M-F 10 AM-8 PM, Sa 10 AM-7 PM, Su 11 AM-6 PM. A large department store in a central location, with a good selection of designer clothing brands. Also beauty products, kitchenware, interior design, records and DVDs, as well as everything else you would expect from a major department store.
- PUB, Hötorget (T Hötorget), phone: +46 8 789 19 30 [54]. Open M-F 10 AM-7 PM, Sa 10 AM-5 PM, Su 11 AM-5 PM. A classic Stockholm department store founded in 1882. Following something of an identity crisis in recent years, PUB is currently undergoing a major redesign, with the intention of rebranding itself as a store for young fashion and popular culture. A few new streetwear shops on the ground floor is a sign of this.
- NK (Nordiska Kompaniet), Hamngatan 18-20 (T T-Centralen), phone: + 46 8 762 80 00 [55]. Open M-F 10 AM-7 PM, Sa 10 AM-6 PM, Su 12-4 PM. A large, upmarket department store popular with affluent Stockholmers of all ages. Well-known for its elaborate Christmas shopwindow decorations.
[edit] Shopping centers
- Gallerian, main entrance: Hamngatan 37 (T T-Centralen or T Kungsträdgården). Open M-F 10 AM-7 PM, Sa 10 AM-6 PM, Su 11 AM-5 PM. A relatively large and centrally located shopping mall, where you can find many of Sweden’s major mainstream fashion chains as well as some foreign brands such as Topshop/Topman, French Connection, Esprit and United Colors of Benetton.
- Sturegallerian, main entrance: Stureplan (T Östermalmstorg). Open M-F 10 AM-7 PM, Sa 10 AM-6 PM, Su 12 AM-5 PM. Opened in 1989, Sturegallerian is the most exclusive – and expensive - shopping center in central Stockholm, with stores carrying a good selection of exclusive brands. Also the home of the upmarket restaurants Sturehof and Tures and the nightclub Sturecompagniet.
- Västermalmsgallerian, Sankt Eriksgatan 45 (T Fridhemsplan). Open M-F 10 AM-7 PM, Sa 10 AM-5 PM, Su 11 AM-5 PM. The newest of inner-city Stockholm’s shopping centers, Västermalmsgallerian on Kungsholmen is good-looking but relatively small.
- Ringen (T Skanstull) Fashion, Home decor, Restaurants and more
- Skrapan (T Skanstull/T Medborgarplatsen) Fashion and more
- Bruno Götgatan 36 (T Slussen) Fashion and more
- Farsta Centrum(T Farsta) Fashion and all kinds of stores
- Globen (T Globen) Next to "the Globe Arenas". Fashion and all kinds of stores
- Vällingby Centrum (T Vällingby) Fashion and all kinds of stores.
- Skärholmen Centrum (T Skärholmen) Fashion and all kinds of stores.
- Kista Galleria (T Kista) All kinds of stores.
[edit] Fashion
- Weekday, Olofsgatan 1 (T Hötorget), phone: +46 8 411 51 50. Open M-F 11 AM-7 PM, Sa 11 AM-5 PM, Su 12 AM-4 PM. Götgatan 21 (T Slussen), phone: +46 8 642 17 72, [56]. Open M-F 11 AM-8 PM, Sa 11 AM-6 PM, Su 12 AM-5 PM. Two stores (the southside one being the larger) with a focus on young fashon and streetwear. Large assortment of the popular Swedish jeans Cheap Monday, which, surprisingly, is rather cheap.
- Sneakersnstuff. Åsögatan 124, phone: +46 8 743 03 22 [57]. Open: M-F 11 AM-6.30 PM, Sa: 11 AM-5 PM, Su 12 AM-4 PM. Passionate about sneakers, this store has a huge assortment of contemporary and classic designs, including limited-range models.
- Boutique Sportif, Kocksgatan 60 A (T Medborgarplatsen), phone: +46 8 411 12 13 [58]. Open M-F 11.30 AM-6.30 PM, Sa 11 AM-5 PM. Somewhat odd shop with a large number of very hip and rather expensive streetwear brands.
- Sivletto, Malmgårdsvägen 16-18 (T Skanstull), phone: +46 8 643 39 72 [59]. Open Tu-Th noon-7 PM, Fr noon-6 PM, Sa noon-4 PM. Going through a rather anonymous door on a silent back street, down a spiral staircase leading down into a dimly lit cellar, it is hard to believe you're on the right track. But when you step down, you will find yourself in the midst of a fascinating celebration of American 1950’s culture. Retro and vintage clothes, but also a lot of other stuff from the era – as well as a hairdresser and a café. Well worth a visit just for a look around.
Some great second hand stores:
- Lisa Larsson. Bondegatan 48
- Beyond Retro. Åsögatan 144
- Emmaus. Götgatan 14
- Myrorna. Götgatan 79
- Judiths. Hornsgatan 75
- La Principessa. Rosenlundsgatan 1
- Sko dig. Hagagatan 4.
- Nu och då.Norrtullsgatan 31.
- Little shop of fashion. S:t Eriksgatan 68.
- Vilse i Garderoben. Hantverkargatan 59.
[edit] Books
- Akademibokhandeln, Mäster Samuelsgatan 28 (T T-Centralen). Stockholm's largest bookstore, with a large selection of books in English as well as many international magazines.
- Hedengrens bokhandel, Sturegallerian (T Östermalstorg) [60]. A sophisticated bookstore with books in Swedish, English and other languages. They tend more towards fine arts books than the bestsellers.
- Sweden Bookshop, Slottsbacken 10 (T Gamla Stan or T Kungsträdgården), phon: +46 8 453 78 00 [61]. Open M-F 10 AM-6 PM, Sa (July-August) 11 AM-4 PM. Whether you’re looking for a Swedish cookbook, a glossy coffe-table book on Swedish design or Swedish fiction in English translation, this is the place to go. Part of the Swedish Institute, Sweden Bookshop is a specialized bookstore that supplies a broad selection of information about Sweden and Swedish literature in English and other languages.
- Science Fiction Bokhandeln [62], Västerlånggatan 48 (T Gamla Stan). A bookshop selling science fiction, fantasy, horror, manga/anime, role-playing games, and some popular science; a lot of it is in English.
[edit] Music and media
- Pet Sounds Records, Skånegatan 53 (T Medborgarplatsen) [63]. A record store with independent pop, alternative rock and other genres of music with more cred than chart placements. A real institution among Stockholm's music fans.
- Multi Kulti, S:t Paulsgatan 3 (T Slussen), phone: +46 8 643 61 29 [64]. A small but well-stocked music store specialising in the genres popularly called "world music", with welcoming and knowledgeable staff.
- Megastore, Sergels torg (T T-Centralen), phone: +46 8 566 157 00. A large mainstream media store with all kinds of records, DVDs and computer games.
- For some odd reason, most of Stockholm’s second hand record shops are clustered in the area between Odenplan and St Eriksplan. Some examples - starting from the Odenplan end - are Cosmos Factory and Stockholms Skivbörs (both Upplandsgatan 47), Marquee Records (Odengatan 86), Runtrunt (Odengatan 90) [65], The Beat Goes On Records (St Eriksgatan 67) [66], Record Hunter (St Eriksgatan 70), Skivbörsen (St Eriksgatan 71), and Atlas CD-Börs (St Eriksgatan 78). Most are open M-F 11 AM-6 PM, Sa 11 AM-3 or 4 PM.
[edit] Food and drink
- Östermalms Saluhall, Östermalmstorg (T Östermalmstorg) [67]. A market hall in a beautiful 1880s redbrick building, with all kinds of expensive food.
- Kosherian Blecher & Co, Nybrogatan 19 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 663 65 80 [68]. Open M-Tu, Th 11 AM-6 PM W 11 AM-9.30 PM, F 9 AM-1 hour before Shabbat; shorter opening hours during the summer. Kosherian is Stockholm's only Kosher food store. There is no Kosher restaurant in Stockholm, but Kosherian offer catering and can prepare light meals.
- Gray's American Foodstore, Odengatan 39 (Between T Odenplan and T Tekniska Högskolan), phone: +46 8 612 30 40 [69]. If you find yourself longing for marshmallows or Pop-Tarts (and are prepared to pay significantly more for these imported goods than you would in the U.S.), this is the place to go.
- Systembolaget, central locations include Lilla Nygatan 18 (T Gamla Stan), Klarabergsgatan 62 (T T-Centralen), Regeringsgatan 44 (T T-Centralen), Vasagatan 25 (T T-Centralen), Nybrogatan 47 (T Östermalmstorg), Folkungagatan 56 (T Medborgarplatsen) [70]. Generally open M-W 10 AM-6 PM, Th-F 10 AM-7 PM, Sa 10 AM-3 PM, all stores closed Su. If you want to buy alcoholic beverages in Sweden, you literally have no other choice than to go to the state-operated monopoly chain Systembolaget. The exception is called "People Beer", or folköl, that is beer with a lesser grade of alcohol (up to 3.5%) which can be purchased at most grocery stores and gas stations. At Systembolaget, however, you will find a wide assortment as well as helpful knowledgeable staff. Swedish alcohol taxation makes beer and hard liquor expensive. Surprisingly, more exclusive wines can be a bargain. A Swedish speciality is kryddat brännvin, herb-flavored aquavit. Note that Systembolaget is not allowed to sell items chilled. You need to be able to prove that you are over 20 years old, so be sure to bring photo ID. For more information, see the section on Systembolaget in the Sweden article.
[edit] Glassware
- The large department stores Åhléns, NK and PUB (see above) all have a wide selection of glassware.
- Duka, Västerlånggatan 78, phone: +46 8 22 88 07, Sveavägen 24-26, phone: +46 8 10 45 30, Konserthuset, Kungsgatan 41, phone: +46 8 20 60 41. Duka is a Swedish chain selling both cheaper household items and and a limited selection of glassware in several stores in central Stockholm.
- Nordiska Kristall, Kungsgatan 9 (T Östermalmstorg), phone: +46 8 10 43 72 and Österlånggatan 1 (T Gamla Stan), phone +46 8 10 77 18, also in Strand Hotel, Grand Hotel and City Hotel [71]. Nordiska Kristall is an exclusive shop for crystal design glass. The Kungsgatan store has an art-glass gallery.
- Orrefors & Kosta Boda, Birger Jarlsgatan 15 (T Östermalmstorg), phone: +46 8 545 040 84 [72]. Flagship store for two of Sweden's most well-known glassworks.
[edit] Furniture and design
- R.O.O.M, Alströmergatan 20 (T Fridhemsplan), phone: +46 8 692 50 00 http://www.room.se/ Open M-F 10 AM-6 PM, Sa 10 AM-4 PM. A large Habitat-like shop full of tasteful modern furniture, textiles and interior design, as well as kitchen utensils and garden accessories.
- Svenskt Tenn, Strandvägen 5 (T Östermalmstorg), phone: +46 8 617 16 00 [73]. Open M-F 10 AM–6 PM, Sa 10 AM–3 PM. Well known store for high-quality exclusive Swedish design. Very upmarket.
- DesignTorget, several locations, including: Kulturhuset/Sergels Torg, phone: +46 8 21 91 50, and Götgatan 31,(T Slussen) phone: +46 8 462 35 20 http://www.designtorget.se Open M-F 10 AM-7 PM, Sa 10 AM-5 PM, Su 12 AM-6 PM. A design store specialising in smaller items, ranging from the beautiful to the useful to the downright eccentric.
- Tio gruppen/Ten Swedish designers Götgatan 25. (T Slussen)http://www.tiogruppen.com
- Bolagret Götgatan 98. (T Skanstull) Inside "Ringen". http://www.bolagret.se
- Castor Österlånggatan 27 (T Gamla stan)
- Village Kungsgatan 27 http://www.village.se
[edit] Miscellaneous
- Coctail, Skånegatan 71 (T Medborgarplatsen), phone: +46 8 642 07 40 and Cocktail Deluxe, Bondegatan 34 (T Medborgarplatsen), phone: +46 8 642 07 41 [74]. Open M-F 11 AM-6 PM, Sa 11 AM-4 PM, Su (generally) noon-4 PM. Two rather eccentric sister stores with a collection of colourful household items and other stuff. Good for small gifts.
- Clas Ohlson, in Gallerian shopping centre, Hamngatan 37 (T T-Centralen), phone: +46 8 545 189 90 [75]. A large low-price electronics and DIY store. One of the cheaper options if you’re looking for an electric adapter, a hair dryer or some batteries.
[edit] Eat
- See Sweden#Eat for general information on Swedish cuisine.
Stockholm features a large variety of restaurants, including Asian, Indian, Mexican and fast food; many of them offer rather cheap but good "all you can eat" lunch buffets. It is far more difficult to find authentic Swedish cuisine, though. For vegans, Vegan Stockholm has a good list of vegan restaurants and cafes.
Most restaurants offer "dagens rätt" - lunch at a reduced cost, including non-alcoholic beverages, bread, butter, salad and coffee Mon-Fri, usually 11-2. Expect to pay between 60-80 SEK.
Sweden has enforced non-smoking in all bars, pubs and restaurants. Smoking is usually only permitted outdoors.
Note that many Stockholm restaurants are closed for vacation for a few weeks in July and/or early August.
[edit] Budget
- Hötorgshallen, Hötorget (T Hötorget) [76]. Open M-Th 10 am-6 pm, F 10 am-6.30 pm (-6 pm June 1-July 31), Sa 10 am-4 pm (-3 pm June 1-July 31). Deli market situated in the basement of the cinema Filmstaden Sergel. Here you can get everything from sushi via meze to Swedish meatballs. Most places offer good value for money.
- Kungshallen, Kungsgatan 44 [77]. Food court with a wide variety of ethnic foods, across the street from the Filmstaden Sergel. Very good value.
- Planet Food, inside Östermalmshallen, Östermalmstorg (T Östermalmstorg). Open during lunch hours. Although the deli market Östermalmshallen is rather upmarket and its restaurants generally on the expensive side, Planet Food is an exception, offering a decent selection of excellent and very fresh wraps for 55 SEK. Salads and juices are also on the menu.
- Restaurang Sumlen, in the basement of Kungliga Biblioteket (the Royal Library) in the Humlegården park (T Östermalmstorg) [78]. Open M-F 9.30 am-4 pm. In an area where sit-down lunches are expensive, Sumlen, catering to poor PhD students, offer simple but decent meals for 55 SEK. Closed in July.
- Folkets kebab. Very nice kebab shops on Hornsgatan 92 (T Zinkensdamm) and Folkungagatan 62 (T Medborgarplatsen), both on Södermalm.
- Creperie fyra knop, Svartensgatan 4 (T Slussen), phone +46 8 640 77 27. Open 5-11 am. Authentic French-speaking crêpes/galettes place. The place is often crowded and the service can be very French, in all senses of the word, but the food is excellent. Booking recommended. Mains 70-92 SEK.
- Stockholms glass- & pastahus, Valhallavägen 155 (T Karlaplan) and Götgatan 58 (T Medborgarplatsen) [79]. Really tasty homemade ice cream.
- Nystekt Strömming, a typical Swedish food! Fried herring in all variants, e.g. with potatomash. Just a small stand, a few metres outside Slussen station. Very good and quite famous! Open 11 am-6 pm in the summer, 11 am-3 pm in winter.
- Max, Central Station (T T-Centralen) and Norrmalmstorg (T Östermalmstorg or T Kungsträdgården). Hamburgers in Swedish style. Free wifi, restrooms and coffee!
- Sandys, several outlets throughout the city, e.g. Sergelarkaden 6 (T T-Centralen), Klarabergsgatan 31 (T T-Centralen), Stureplan 2 (T Östermalmstorg) and Götgatan 28 (T Slussen) [80]. A large Stockholm-based fast food chain focusing on submarine sandwiches, wraps and salads, Sandys offer a wide selection, reliable quality and acceptable prices, although not by any means a bargain. Sandwiches 49 SEK (excluding drinks), XL sandwiches 59 SEK, salads 65 SEK.
- Gooh!, Hötorget 4 (T Hötorget), Klarabergsviadukten 49 (T T-Centralen), Norrlandsgatan 21 (T Östermalmstorg), Grev Turegatan 15 (T Östermalmstorg), phone: +46 8 528 012 84 [81]. All open at least M-F 10 AM-6 PM. Although the name may be strange the food is not. The Gooh! concept is quality microwave-ready dishes that you can heat and eat on the premises or take away. Mains 39-65 SEK.
[edit] Mid-range
- Pelikan, Blekingegatan 40 (T-Skanstull), phone: +46 8 556 090 90 (Reservations +46 8 556 090 92). (See also the "drink" category). Offers a small selection of Swedish dishes (including the famous Köttbullar (meatballs)). The selection changes according to the season; the food is excellent and very good value for the money.
- Tennstopet Dalagatan 50 (T Odenplan), +46 8 32 25 18 [82]. Open M-F 4 pm-1 am, Sa-Su 1 pm-1 am. More traditional Swedish cooking. On one evening in August each year they will serve the Swedish culinary delicacy Surströmming (fermented herring). Mains 130-265 SEK, slightly lower prices at the bar.
- Claes på hörnet, Surbrunnsgatan 20 (T Tekniska Högskolan), phone +46 816 51 36 [83]. Tracing its history back to 1731, the inn Claes på Hörnet (in literal translation "Claes on the Corner") serves traditional Swedish food in more or less modern forms. The 18th century-inspired dining environment adds to the enjoyment. The inn also has 10 hotel rooms in 18th century style. Mains 145-265 SEK.
- Prinsen Mäster Samuelsgatan 4, phone: +46 8 611 13 31 [84]. Open M-F: 11.30 AM-11.30 PM, Sa 1-11.30 PM. Su 5-10.30. Traditional Swedish dishes on the more exclusive side, as well as some French bistro classics, all in a very nice setting. Mains 169-299 SEK.
- Mäster Anders, Pipersgatan 1 (T-Rådhuset), phone: +46 8 654 20 01. French and Swedish cuisine with an emphasis on grilled meats. Mains 145-295 SEK.
- Kungsholmen, Norr Mälarstrand, kajplats 464 (T Rådhuset) Maybe on the expensive side of what constitutes mid-range, but this refined food court concept in a beutiful Kungsholmen quay location offers large portions of really tasty food in a variety of styles. Mains 175-260 SEK
- Blå Porten, Djurgårdsvägen 64, phone: +46 8 663 87 59. Open M-F 11 am-10 pm, Sa-Su 11 am-7 pm. Most of the mid-range options in the tourist-dense Djurgården offer a simple, overpriced and uninspiring fare. Blå porten, hidden in the back yard of Liljevalchs konsthall, is the one exception. Delicious food in a lush garden makes the long queues worth it. The excellent cakes and pies also makes this a good choice for a coffe break.
- Peppar. Torsgatan 34 (T St Eriksplan), phone: +46 8 34 20 52. Awesome cajun and creole food at decent prices. Some have argued that they make the best burger in the city. The place is especially known for having excessive decorations at all major holidays like christmas and halloween. They also make really good jalapeño bread.
- Roxy, Nytorget 6. (T Medborgarplatsen), phone: +46 8 6409655 [85]. Open Tu-Th 5-12 PM, F-Sa 5 PM-1 AM, Su 5-12 PM. The place where Stockholm’s gays and lesbians go out to eat - or just hang out in the bar. Straight-friendly and with good food.
- Mandus, Österlånggatan 7 (T Gamla Stan), phone: +46 8 206055. Open every day 1-12 PM. A smaller and more familiar restaurant with a slightly more obvious gay profile than Roxy - just a stone’s throw from the Royal Castle in the Old Town. International cuisine.
- Byn Creperie & Ciderie, Rödabergsgatan 11A [86]. Galettes, crêpes, moules and cider in an authentic atmosphere with chansons on the stereo. Mains 89-169 SEK.
- Döden i grytan, Norrtullsgatan 61 [87]. Like a neighborhood Italian restaurant, but with great chefs that really know what they are doing. The winner of Dagens Nyheter's Gulddraken award 2006 in the medium-priced restaurant category. Mains 95-295 SEK.
- Seikoen, Tegelbacken 2 [88]. Classy sushi restaurant with a great view over the water and the old town. There are many cheaper sushi places in Stockholm, but it's worth the price to eat here instead. Mains 140-245 SEK.
- Ho's, Hornsgatan 151 (T Hornstull), phone +46 8 844420. Open Tu-Th 4-11.30 pm, F 4-11 pm, Sa 2.30-11 pm, Su 2.30-10.30 pm. While Stockholm has a fair number of cheap Chinese restaurants, most serve a rather bland and watered-down version of the most popular Westernised staple dishes. While the competition is not all that fierce, Ho's stand out as a quality choice, with a wide selection of dishes with more spice and taste.
- Koh Phangan, Skånegatan 57 (T Medborgarplatsen) [89]. Authentic thai restaurant with great food. Booking recommended.
- Phi Phi Island, Birger Jarlsgatan 121, phone: +46 8 612 03 01. Authentic thai restaurant with great food. The location is a little off, but that's an opportunity to get off the beaten path and see the real Stockholm. Mains 110-195 SEK.
- Hermans, Fjällgatan 23 (T Slussen), phone: +46 8 643 94 80 [90]. Sumptuous weekend vegetarian buffet (theme changes weekly) followed by delicious coffees, teas, and desserts (140-190 SEK depending on beverage/dessert choice). The view over Stockholm is amazing -- go there at sunset and sit on the back terrace. They sometimes have live entertainment.
- Örtagården, Nybrogatan 31 (T Östermalmstorg), phone: +46 8 662 17 28. Lunch M-F 10.30 am-4 pm, dinner M-F 4-9.30 pm, Sa 11 am-11 pm, Su 11 am-9 pm. Located on the top floor of the Östermalmshallen food market, Örtagården serves a sumptous vegetarian buffet with hot and cold vegetarian dishes at a decent price. There is also a "back pocket" serving meat dishes. Vegetarian weekday buffet lunch 85 SEK, Vegetarian weekday dinner and weekend buffet 135 SEK.
[edit] Splurge
- F12, Fredssgatan 12 (T T-Centralen), phone: +46 8 24 80 52 [91] . Open M-F 11.30 AM-2 PM, 5-10.30 PM, Sa 5-10.30 PM. The stylish F12 (short for the centrally located address) is regarded as one of the best fine dining experiences in Stockholm by most critics, including White Guide, the most ambitious Swedish restaurant guide. Mains 270-520 SEK, 7-course tasting menus 1095 SEK
- Esperanto, Kungstensgatan 2 (T Tekniska Högskolan), phone: +46 8 696 23 23 [92]. Open Tu-Sa 6 PM-1 AM (closed July and early August). Just a notch below F12 on the White Guide ranking, Esperanto offers innovative tasting menus featuring many examples of advanced cooking. Some of the best value for money in the top class niche. Tasting menus 745-945 SEK.
- Mistral, Lilla Nygatan 21 (T Gamla Stan), phone: +46 8 10 12 24. Open W-Sa 6-12 PM. On par with Esperanto (above) on the quality scale, the tasting menu is the only way to go here as well. The somewhat eccentric eleven courses display a soft spot for traditional Swedish ingredients like root vegetables. Mistral is also notable for its intimate setting – the Old Town dining room has only room for around 15 guests - so booking is absolutely essential. Tasting menu 995 SEK.
- Edsbacka krog, Sollentunavägen 220 (Commuter train to Sollentuna, buses 607, 627 to Edsbacka), phone: +46 8 96 33 00 [93]. Open M-F 5.30-12 PM, Sa 2-12 PM (closed from early July to early August). Located 15 km north of central Stockholm, Sollentuna’s rather traditionalist Edsbacka Krog is the only Swedish restaurant with two stars in the Michelin Guide Rouge. Extensive wine list. Mains 370-420 SEK, menus 750-1200 SEK.
- Lux, Primusgatan 116 (Lilla Essingen, bus 1), phone: +46 8 619 01 90 [94]. Open Tu-Fr 11.30 AM-2 PM, 5 PM-11 PM, Sa 5 PM-11 PM. In a waterside location on one of Stockholm’s smaller islands, Lux offers both a relaxed atmosphere and some very good modern cooking. Mains 315-345 SEK, tasting menu 940 SEK.
- Leijontornet, Lilla Nygatan 5 (T Gamla Stan), phone: +46 8 506 400 80 [95]. Open M-F 11.30 AM-2 PM, 6-10 PM, Sa 6-10 PM. With the foundations of a city wall tower behind glass in the cellar dining room, Leijontornet is about exclusive food with a traditionalist slant in an exclusive historical environment. The street-level bar next door is a surprisingly vivid place with cheaper dishes from the kitchen.
- Den Gyldene Freden, Österlånggatan 51 (T Gamla Stan), phone: +46 8 24 97 60 [96]. Open M-F 5-11 PM, Sa 1-11 PM (closed M in July and early August). The Swedish Academy goes here every Thursday. Old traditions (traced back to 1722) in the old town. The reputation allows “The Golden Peace” to charge rather expensive prices.
- Gondolen [97]. Gondolen is a fancy and expensive restaurant run by the famous chef Erik Lallerstedt. There is an inexpensive branch named Köket in the same premises where you can eat the best of Swedish cuisine with a glass of wine for no more than 100 SEK. T-Slussen. Dress code may apply!
- Café Opera, Kungsträdgården (T-Kungsträdgården). The place if you want to be seen with celebrities. Offers good food and drinks. Dress code applies.
[edit] Drink
- See Sweden#Drink for general information on alcohol and nightlife in Sweden.
[edit] Bars and nightclubs
The most famous nightlife district is Stureplan, at the crossing of Birger Jarlsgatan, Kungsgatan and Sturegatan, (subway station T-Östermalmstorg). The mushroom-shaped rain shelter is a common meeting point. Great if you can stand high entrance fees (100 SEK or more), long lines, rude doormen and the risk of violence.
Most restaurants and bars close at 1 AM. Larger clubs usually close at 3 AM. The exclusive few open till 5 AM (currently The Spy Bar, The Lab, Solidaritet at Stureplan, La Camera at Norrmalmstorg and S/S Patricia at Slussen (a steamship)) are expensive, and to some extent plagued by drugs, fights and organized crime.
It is common that the more trendy bars have a long queue from midnight till closing time. Do not try to argue with the doormen - they do not take any nonsense. Vote with your feet and go somewhere else. Stockholm nightclubs are infamous for rejecting guests with darker skin or hair than the average Swede.
Get out early (at least before midnight), well-dressed and not too drunk, and you will be welcome at most clubs.
During the summer, the club Trädgården (The Garden) is a popular club due to the fact that half of the club (including one dance floor) is situated outside, and Swedes love to spend as much of their brief summers as possible outdoors.
For more information about Stockholm's nightlife, you can pick up the free monthly Nöjesguiden magazine, the newspaper Dagens Nyheter on thursdays, and the free Metro and Stockholm City on fridays. They are only available in Swedish though.
[edit] Coffee
As Swedes like drinking coffee, there are many coffee-bars around the city. Traditional Swedish filter coffee is relatively strong when compared to American, but a far cry from the Italian espresso. In recent years, espresso, caffe latte, cappuccino and other varieties of Italian coffe have become generally available in most inner city coffee shops.
Although you won't find the largest international franchises such as Starbucks and Costa among Stockholm's coffee shops, there are several Swedish counterparts - Wayne's Coffee, Robert's Coffee and Espresso House are the most common names here - that are strikingly similar in design. Just as everywhere else, the small local cafés offer a more personal experience, and often - but far from always - better coffee.
Don't hesitate to ask for a refill at self-service cafeterias, as it is often free.
[edit] Södermalm & Gamla stan
- Muggen, Götgatan 24 (T Slussen). A mainstream café with modern design in a central Södermalm location.
- Cafe Rival, Mariatorget 3 (T Mariatorget). A nice café, which just as the hotel next door is owned by Benny Andersson of ABBA fame. (You won't find any traces of ABBA in the place, though.)
- Skåningen Kaffebar, Skånegatan 12 (T Medborgarplatsen). Very good coffee with excellent personal service. Small outdoor service where you can smoke.
- Cafe Helgalundens Korta Varor, Grindsgatan 35 (T Skanstull). Extraordinarily good coffee and sandwiches. Not to mention the service. They also carry a good selection of Swedish indie music, some truly hard-to-find DVD's and a few freshly printed T-shirts. All of it is sold at very affordable prices.
- Fåfängan - Café and Restaurant at the top of Klockstapelsbacken (Buses from T Slussen to Londonviadukten) [98]. A café close to the eastern tip of Södermalm with a good view of the city. Music some days during lunchtime.
- Café Edenborg, Stora Nygatan 35 (T Gamla Stan) [99]. Open M-F 11 AM-7 PM, Sa-Su noon-5 PM. A friendly café in the old town, cheaper than most in the neighborhood and with free WiFi for all. There is also a small shop with underground, cult and radical films, books and magazines.
- Copacabana, Hornstulls strand 3 (T Hornstull), phone: +46 8 669 29 39. Open M-Th 10 AM-9 PM, F-Su 10 AM-7 PM. Copacabana calls itself a queer feminist café and draws a LGBT crowd from all over the city, as well as locals both gay and straight. Friendly atmosphere and afternoon sun on a few outdoor tables.
[edit] Norrmalm & Östermalm
- Cafe Panorama, Kulturhuset's [100] 5th floor (T T-Centralen). A large café with large windows and a nice open terrace overlooking the lively Sergels torg.
- Cafe Ritorno, Odengatan 78 (T Odenplan). Nice café with personal service. Small outdoor service in the summer.
- Mellqvist Bar, Rörstrandsgatan 4 (T St Eriksplan). Thought by some to serve the best coffee in Stockholm. Expect to drink while standing in this very small coffee bar.
- Non Solo Bar Odengatan 34 (T Odenplan) [101]. An Italian cafe whose baristas have won the Swedish barista championships multiple times. Amazing espressos and cappucinos and a quite nice assortment of sandwiches.
- Konditori Valand, Surbrunnsgatan 48 (T Rådmansgatan), phone: +46 8 30 04 76. This is an old-style Swedish "konditori" with its 1954 interior almost completely intact. Still owned and operated by the wife of the original designer, this place is a piece of living Swedish history.
[edit] Budget
If you are looking for good value for your money, you should try to find a place in Stockholm's Södermalm district. A good starting point would be the subway station Medborgarplatsen.
- Carmen, Tjärhovsgatan 14. Cheap beer and a lot of broke hipsters at this Södermalm bar.
- Gröne Jägaren, Götgatan 64. Cheap beer since 1692 and karaoke. (T-Medborgarplatsen) There are several other places in the hood and you will probably find a seat.
- Kelly's, Folkungagatan 49, (T)-Medborgarplatsen. Cheap beer, cider and shots. 23 years to enter. Hard rock. You will blend in well if you wear black leather and tattoos.
Another good starting point for a late night out is in the Kungsholmen district. Located around the subway (T-bana) station of Fridhemsplan, you can find quite a few cheap places.
- Dovas, S:t Eriksgatan 53 A. Cheap beer, 25 kr for a 1/2 liter bottle of norrlands guld.
- Theodoras, S:t Eriksgatan 53 B. Located about 10 meters further down the street, with the same owner, it is basically a quieter copy of it's brother, Dovas.
- Nivå 22, Fridhemsgatan 17. Very popular place in Stockholm, particulary in winter time as the upper deck is considered outside, and smoking is allowed.
[edit] Mid-range
[edit] Södermalm & Gamla stan
- Oliver Twist, Repslagargatan 6 (T-Slussen). Warm and cosy English-style pub offering good food, real ale, and other beers from around the world. A place where younger and older drinkers meet.
- Akkurat, Hornsgatan 2 (T-Slussen). Friendly English-style pub offering good food, real ale, plenty of beers from all over the world as well as 450 different whiskies. A place where younger and older drinkers meet.
- Bishop's Arms, Bellmansgatan 10 (T-Mariatorget). Warm and cosy English-style pub offering good food, real ale and other beers from around the world. Live jazz music Wednesday evenings. A place where younger and older drinkers meet.
- Pelikan, Blekingegatan 40 (T-Skanstull), phone: +46 8 556 090 90 (Reservations +46 8 556 090 92). An old style working-class beer hall with a very authentic feeling, for those traditionalists who think Kvarnen has sold out in recent years. High noise level but quite a friendly crowd. Also offers simple and authentic Swedish food at a reasonable price.
- Kvarnen, Tjärhovsgatan 4 (T-Medborgarplatsen), phone: +46 8 643 03 80. A Stockholm beer hall with old traditions. Popular with fans of the Southside football club Hammarby IF. In recent years this place has expanded, adding more modern, trendy bars in adjoining rooms. Has a wide selection of beers and food at decent prices.
- Indigo, Götgatan 19 (T-Slussen), phone: +46 8 643 58 59. A really small bar with an eclectic color scheme, usually drawing a rather young crowd. Situated in the centre of Södermalm, this is a good place to start the evening.
- Södra Teatern Bar, Mosebacke Torg 1-3 (T-Slussen). Open Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, this very relaxed and stylish bar offers a marvelous view of Stockholm from its lounge. Be sure to come before 11pm to get seats offering the best view.
- Sjögräs bar, Timmermansgatan 24 (