Toledo
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Toledo is in Castilla La Mancha.
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[edit] Understand
An often overlooked gem, the Old quarter of Toledo (el Casco) is surrounded on three sides by the slow-flowing (and sadly rather polluted) Rio Tagus. Narrow cobbled streets, busy with locals and a smattering of tourists, also host a surprisingly large number of cars and vans. Pedestrians and drivers seem to co-exist harmoniously but it's wise to keep your eyes open and move smartly aside when faced by an approaching vehicle. Pedestrians do not command exaggerated respect!
Unless you are unfazed by being completely lost in a matter of steps, you will want to arm yourself with a map. Beware that the map supplied by the Tourist Information Office is, confusingly, oriented upside down, i.e. south at the top, but is otherwise clear.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By plane
[edit] By train
Regular trains run from Madrid to the train station a few kilometres out of Toledo. You can catch a bus or walk into town. Walking into town will take you past a busy road, the new outer suburbs and finally up the hill to the old city. Toledo city Bus 5 [1] and Toledo city bus 6 [2] stop at the train station and end at Plaza Zodocover [in the old town] in 6 stops and 3 stops, respectively.
[edit] By car
From Madrid, Toledo is about 70 km southwest on the A-42 freeway, which is marked "Toledo" on all road signs. This used to be labelled the N-401, and old maps or signs may still refer to that, although almost all road signage appears to have been updated. There is often spot congestion during peak hours, sometimes as far out as Parla (25 km).
[edit] By bus
Buses run from Madrid´s Metro Sur station (Mendez Alvaro) every half hour; tickets are about €5. The bus lands you at the bottom of the hill, try to make the walk up to city center rather than taking a bus, because you´ll be treated to some excellent views!
[edit] By boat
[edit] Get around
If you are staying in a hotel near the old city, it is definitely easiest to travel by foot. The alleys and paths through the old city will only admit pedestrians.
There is a tourist tram that does a loop around the city. It is pretty tacky, but it does take you outside the old city walls and into the hills across the river. The views from there are spectacular. The tram has a running description of the sights in both English & Spanish. It runs every hour from the Zocodover; tickets are purchased at the Toledo Information counter.
[edit] See
- The Cathedral is the centrepiece of Toledo. It sits on top of the hill and is deceptively large. When you enter you will be confronted by sparkling gold reliefs, huge oil paintings and portraits of all of the Toledo Cardinals going back at least 500 years. The baroque Transparente, behind the main altar, is like nothing you have ever seen. The Cathedral also has a great art gallery with works by Raphael, Rubens, Goya, Titian, and one of El Greco's major works, The Disrobing of Christ.
- The Alcazar is a large square building on the outskirts of the old city. It looks across the river at Franco's old military barracks.
- The Military barracks.
- San Juan de Los Reyes, another beautiful church near the Jewish quarter.
- Jesuits Church offers great views of Toledo and the surrounding region from its twin spires. It is set in the highest location in the city.
Toledo was one of the most important centers of the large jewish comunity of Spain, two of the ten synagogues that served the comunity are among the jewels of Toledo: 1. "Sinagoga El Transito", 2. "Santa Maria la Blanca."
[edit] Do
[edit] Learn
[edit] Work
[edit] Buy
The gold and black enamel work by local artisans is known throughout Spain. Many shops in Toledo sell decorated plates, sheilds, spoons and key rings.
Sword - Toledo is well known for its swords, so be sure to look for a conquistador sword, which should set you back around US $300. As you can't bring it on a plane, you'll need to send it. Fortunately, many shops will ship it for you for a reasonable price.
Ceramics - Talavera de la Reina (outside of Toledo) has a centuries-old tradition of glazed ceramics. Toledo is filled with handpainted ceramics of varying degrees of quality (upscale shops and boutiques are pricier, but generally carry higher-quality pieces).
Damascene - Another famous handicraft of Toledo is damascene, from the ancient Moorish art of interlacing gold on iron or steel, then firing it so the underlying material oxidizes and becomes black, with the gold in sharp relief. Every shop in Toledo will carry some form of damascene work, most frequently as small decorative plates and jewellery. Damascene also tends to be on the expensive side, so be sure to comparison shop around Toledo. The traditional manufacturing process consists of several steps, as it is shown in MadeInToledo.com.
The region around Toledo and southward in Castilla La Mancha produces typical almond sweets known as Mazapán, which is not to be confused with the tough, white icing used on wedding cakes that we call "marzipan". Mazapán is glazed, and sometimes decorated with pine nuts (piñones).
[edit] Eat
Avoid paella. Toledo is definitely NOT a seaside town! Try Bar La Boveda, just off Plaza Zocodover, for great, cheap sangria (6€ jarra) and good sandwiches. Enebro in Plaza San Justo serves a plate of free tapas ranging from french fries to croquettes to mini pizzas with every beer or glass of wine -- check it out on Real Madrid game nights, where the place fills up with loyal fans. Meson de la Orza great food, great service, not so cheap, but it is worthy
[edit] Budget
For good pizza, try Pastucci's. The pasta is good, too. The owner learned the pizza trade in Naples, and has won several international competitions. The place is a magnet for international college students including many from the USA. Not a place for a romantic meal - it is very basic. But if you want good Italian at a decent price, don't be put off by its looks and visit Pastucci's. Open on Sundays (which is rare around Toledo), but closed on Mondays.
Another good Italian place is Mille Grazie, just off Zocodover. Lots of charm with exposed brick walls. Great pasta and pizza, and a very attentive staff. Fills up pretty quickly at dinner. Closed Mondays.
[edit] Mid-range
[edit] Splurge
[edit] Drink
Try Picaro or Circulo de Arte for a hip night scene, Circulo de Arte is in a renovated church and plays good dance music. It also has some of the best batidos (milkshakes) in town! O´Brian's serves good tap beer, and boasts a strong tourist and student crowd most nights.
[edit] Sleep
[edit] Budget
[edit] Mid-range
Casona de la Reina (***)
[edit] Splurge
Parador de Toledo This hotel offers the best views of the town.